Whats up guys. Well, im about a week away from completing my project. As you can see from my sig its gonna be kickass when I finally get the engine in the car. The last thing i have to do is weld the pin in the differential. Now, I know what pin it is, but Ive only taken a Daytona tranny apart, not one of ours. Can someone please help????

I would like to speak to someone about this if they have done it. If you have, shoot me an email at esi420@hotmail.com.

Also if anyone has the shop manuals on their computer(If I remember right I think Dino does??)those would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again guys, I couldnt have done any of this without your help.

2gnt rocks

Later

dino welded his as have others.. he has a pic he'll post if he comes along this thread.

i've done it. its very simple once the tranny is open

Once you have the differential out you can't miss the pin. A quick weld and she's done.

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Not to sound like an ass, but I am unfamiliar with these trannies so could someone explain to me why you guys weld the diff? Does it do the same thing as welding the center diff on a GSX? If so then I just answered my own question.

It's a safety measure the differential pin that holds the spider gears can be a weal point in the trans., and if it shatters... Under high hp and torque apps you want to weld the pin so you don't bust a trans.

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

I kinda figured it was something like that. Okay, so are there any bad side effects to doing this? Probably not, like I said above I'm not too familiar with these trannies. Thanks for the info.

The only drawback is that you'll have to grind away the welds in order to ever take the shaft out. Of course, the only thing you'd need to take that shaft out for are Phantom Grip installs, locker conversions, etc.. if you're going todo that, you might as well get a new diff anyway.

Is that aluminum or steel? My friend has a MIG but not a TIG so I want to make sure before I take it to him. And is there any performance issues or is this just for safety?

it's steel, and it's just a safety measure. it'll keep the pin from backing out, but not breaking if a spider gear seizes up. However, if it breaks with the ends welded in, the gears won't go anywhere but you'll sure as heck know something is wrong.