Now I'm starting to think that the UDP wasn't worth the 130 bucks (I think)that I paid for. I already brought this up once. The power that u notice from an UDP wasn't really that noticeable. Well, probably in the beginning, I was kinda biased, thinking that my car revved a little faster. Now I'm kinda used to is already. But everytime I drive my car hard, that's when the belt breaks. Last time I was racing a civic on the freeway. Shifted from 5th to 3rd. After getting off the freeway, that's when the belt broke. Second time, happened today. Trying to catch this Celica, shifted from 4th to 3rd going I dunno going around 70-75 in heavy traffic. :P Exited already, then I heard this thumping sound. Then I noticed I lost my power steering already. Again. Only consolation is that at least the alternator's still working, I think. I don't have a check engine light like before. But still, another unnecessary cost.

Bottomline is, is it worth having allegedly "10 hp" when u can't drive ur car that hard? Isn't that when u nid the power? Anyway, I have to fix this thing again. If someone would be kind to give me the part number and brand again of the belts that I nid. I also had a hard time looking for these belts before. And also any tips on how to prevent this from happening. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

>And also any tips on how to prevent this
>from happening. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

stop trying to be mario andretti ;)

I used to blow off belts and shred them all the time too. First thing you need to get is good quality belts. I use kelly springfield form autozone. And after you have driven the car around for a about a week then retighten the belt. If you still have problems then you pulley isnt installed correctly. It has to be installed just right or you will shred belts all the time.

I had the same problem too when I first put mine on but ever since I got a shorter belt and got rid of the A/C and Idler pulley being in the mix it hasn;t shreded yet.....

damn.. i am still using the bandos... and i havent had one problem.. an occasional skretch everynow and then.. but i can live with it.. maybe the pulley wasnt put on correctly...?

Ive had my pully for over a year now with no probs, just dont get the same ones and make sure they are tight

Hmmm, thanks for pointing that out Dave. Yeah, I kinda forgot to retighten them after putting on the new ones. How would I know if the pulley was put on wrong? I guess I'll have to have some other people do it then, probably an autozone or pepboys place. I'll take note of the brands that u said. Hopefully they have those in stock. I tried looking for those goodyear gatorbacks but they are hard to find. I found it at a goodyear store but they won't sell it to me solo. Anyway, hope I could do this tom...

Get yourself to a facility that has an air impact gun, with a big ol compressor like mine(60 gal) and tighten that crank bolt up. I'm using the bandos, and it sounds like you drive the same way I do. As far as I can tell the bando's don't suck, it's just hard to get the UDP on - thats all. Think about the stress thats put on the belt if its not on all the way by lets say .2mm - left, right, left, right, left, right, by .2mm every ten revolutions approximately? Ok, at 7000 rpm thats 700 BPM(bends per minute) or 11 BPS(econd).

Tighten it up. At least put the impact up to it...if the crank bolt turns ONE HALF of a turn then it wasn't on all the way. You know it's on when the impact gun doesn't want to turn anymore...and if it IS on all the way then I'm a jackass and Bandos suck.

I'm a jackass anyway :P


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Gude cams : test pipe : AFX UDP : ram air : Thrush glasspack : Dual air horns : Kenwood KDC 5000 : AutoCommand remote start
incomming - lower strut bars, ES inserts, F/R tower bars

I wouldn't use an impact to tighten the crank bolt personally, too much stress. I used an 18" breaker bar and just pullled her on.

I'm willing to bet the culprit here is improper alignment of the UDP with the pulleys on the accessories. The pulley is either too far or not far enough on the crank. Unless of course as state earlier the belts are just loose and then stretch. Yes you will need to retension them from time to time. I make them tighten on the UDP than I do on other cars, but mine are no longer squeeling, and I have never had a belt slip off.

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Alright, more info. Hmmm, that is kinda scary if the pulleys and the UDP aren't aligned. I had it replaced at Mitsu b4 and they didn't say anything about it being aligned. So I'm guessing it could be the belts only. So if its squealing, does that mean its loose? The first time I put on the UDP, it would squeal everytime I turn the wheel to the utmost left or right. After it broke, I replaced it. No more sound when turning, but there is still this noticeable squealing sound during idle. So, must be loose then huh? Could anyone give me the torque specs again? I kinda forgot. Thanks.

The squeeling at the far turns on the wheel is from the power steering pump.

The squeeling at idle is the belts, just tension until they are tighter... there is a tool to check tension on the belts, but it is not worth it.

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

how exactly do you tighten the belts?

When i first got my car the belts shredded 2 times the first month it was a defective tensioner bracket or something likee that. Mitsu dealer replaced it and i havent had any problems in the last year.

97 Eclipse GS
Aem CAI, Obx 2.5" Stainless Cat back, Tomm's coilovers, Blown stock struts :-) , Black housing projectors, Blitz Body kit, Dark blue metallic paint, Alpine cva-1005 head unit (6.5" indash monitor), Playstation 2, Alpine ai-net 6-disc changer, Alpine type-R 6.5" component set, boston acoustics 5X7" in the rear, 2 alpine type-r 12"s Pheonix gold sub amp and eclipse 4 channel.