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I got this info from neon.org

it sure helped me make up my mind on what cams to get. I wanted to go for the drags #16 but now which involve a lot of money and time to make then run properly, now I am glad I found this post.


here is what I found

>>>>> First i would recommend you pick up the magazine, great read, lots of neon stuff! Local barnes & noble shoudl carry it, mine does.(mopar)

5.0K rpms: stock: 101 ... #10 - 101 ... #16 - 100
5.5K rpms: stock: 118 ... #10 - 118 ... #16 - 117
6.0K rpms: stock: 119 ... #10 - 124 ... #16 - 123
6.5K rpms: stock: 121 ... #10 - 128 ... #16 - 130
7.0K rpms: stock: 118 ... #10 - 126 ... #16 - 129

power peek on #16 ..... 6750 rpms @ 131 hp
power peek on #10 ..... 6500 rpms @ 128 hp
power peek on stock ... 6500 rpms @ 121 hp

Its not all positive gains, there is peak torque loss of 8 ft*lbs at 3200 rpms for #16 and 1 ft*lbs loss for #10. #16 lags behind the stock and #10 from beginning of the graph at 2800 rpms till about the 5200 rpms. #10 cam follows the #16 cam till about 6300 rpms, where the #16 cams gain about 3 hp. There are hp & torque gaisn after that 5200 area.

These are my observations and should NOT be be taken as 100% accurate, for simple reason that my hp approximations on the graphs may not be as accurate or unaccurate as yours.

Vitor <- having a nice day. <<<<<<<




so now I know for sure I would rather pay less money and get the NOS grind (this way I can run them on stock valve springs) I mean with # 16 I actually loose power over stock till like 6k rpm and then they will kick in and add like 10hp from 6k-redline, nah I will be happier with a wider power band.

btw they are comparing the street grind with the drag grind, I will get the nos grind which will be the happy mid point of both worlds.


Adel

...but I would like to point out that either Drag cam designs needs higher compression because their Vacuum qualities are SO damn extreme. From what I gather in your post, this is all on stock compression where the drag cam performance is severely hindered. I feel compression from either drag cam should be raised to 11.6:1. You would then run a lower dynamic compression because drag camshafts suck compression. That exlpains why their aggressive design makes them weak and why they "come into their own" at the end of the power band.

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology: The Only Replacement for Displacement"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

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Crane advises us to go with higher compression if using drag cams # 18s (the big dogs) their drag #16 grind is more for heavy drag racing but still drivable on the street. So if you were to look in Howell or CNNP sites they never mentioned anything about having to have higher compression with the crane drags #16s.

you have a good point tho, cause I am sure these tests were not done with cam gears installed, so I am sure I will see more power with the 16s after tuning them right with the cam gears.

damnit I still can't make up my mind, I know for sure that I will hate to take the head off once a gain and pay the extra money to put the #16s on, but if they are worth it, hell I will just go for it.

Adel

LAST EDITED ON 08-Jun-01 AT 01:54 AM (PST)

Guess what. if you look at the aggressive grinds of the Jim Wolf 240SX DOHC and SR20DE its the same thing (just not quite as high in the rev range. the point at which they perform better than stock). Thats just the nature of big cams. To me it looks like its suppose to. With those cams and the AFX computer which redlines at 8500rpm you have just what a "drag" cam is suppose to do, kick ass in the range you drag in.
Granted they dont look to be the best choice for a street cam but then who listens when they say "drag" cam.


Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

Well put Stan. This is the reason, when I do mine I think I'm going Street Grind or equivalant regrind with approx. specs. Of course the biggest deterrent is that I have to pass emissions here in wonderful Chicago, granted don't hear this as too much whining because I know all of you CA guy's and gal's have it far worse than me. But it still sucks ,and since I will be raising compression when I do this, Drag cams would be nice I just don't see a prayer of passing. And I would hate to have to swap the head for the original every two years. By the time I'm done with that, I'll have an S-AFC, and some cam gears with the new set up. I'm going to have to find a local dyno shop.

Adel, thanks for the info, very helpful.

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17.

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. Silver Cadmium Plated KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads.

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar, SS Clutch Line.

...now Gary has to quite playing around and make OUR 420a AF/X computer. He would prolly be rich

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology: The Only Replacement for Displacement"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

Adel,

ur da man... can't wait til u get em on man! i think i'll stick to the street grinds and gears to get 15hp hehe... good luck



Oh yea... u know i be pimpin!

"RACECAR backwards is RACECAR!"

Kory
pimpalitiouz@cisco.com
Happy Honda Hunting!

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thanks a lot My Nigga :) u know who u r

Kory u will have to help me out once I get those suckers :)


Adel