so I was talking to my uncle about how I was thinking about getting an udp and he told me that I'd be better off leaving it the way it is. He said I'd see gains and all, but he said that it'll slowly kill my battery and the accessories of my car.. he was basically saying that with most mods.. it'll help with one thing.. but break 2 others.. i don't want my car to start falling apart before i choose to get rid of it so can anyone list any mods that aren't really bad for the car?

No UDp will not slowly kill the car, basic bolt ons will not slowly kill the car. The alternator still cranks out plenty of voltage and ampherage I have a volt meter on mine and have seen no problem and never have dropped below 12 to 13 volts even when idling for a long period of time which is the only time the alternator puts out anything less than usual. She still sits at 14 volts when cruising. Yes if start pushig out significantly mor epower than stock you may produce a little more wear and tear on parts, but... if you do your maintenance like you should and keep the car running good you won't notice it.

Una salus victus.
"We are going to have peace even if we have to fight for it." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

UDP's are not bad for your car. The AFX UDP which is 30% has had no problems reported with charging. In fact if your engine idles at 800 rpms, then from about 1100 rpm with a UDP it the as 800 RPM"s or more with a stock pulley. Since 99.9% of the time you are above 1100 RPM's you will have no problem, and this is why nobody has had a problem.

What if you are running a bunch of audio/video stuff? Like amps,subs,monitors and things like that. Im trying to make as much voltage as possible and don't want to sacrifice anything just for like 1-3 HP!I know that the AFX UDP just basically frees up the existing HP but what exactly does it do? and what are the gains in numbers and charts? Before i pay about $160 and then pay to have it installed i wanna make sure its worth it. All it seems to be is a small pulley...big deal? thanks

Well...

The enigne has to work to keep the electornics working. If it pulley does it's job then it is allowing the engine to use some of that energy to make more power while still safely running stuff. But a lot coems also from the amount of weight you save. And it doesn't give you 1-3 HP, it gives you like 8-10 HP. It is a better gain than an intake.

what about installing it.. is it pretty hard to get to and install?

haha it's not bad for your car but it is for your belts :P I've seen many peeps with AFX pulleys that throw or shred belts often (me including) I guess it depends on how well you install it though.

My car runs pretty normal, I get fat voltage on my turbo timer (yep my car or any RS I know has a voltmeter). My stereo system worx fine. I heard it makes you AC a little weaker, but if you driving at 3k it's gonna work full blast. UDP is one of the best mods you can do, no losses and just gains, can't beat that. It's smog legal too bwahahaha, like they really check that crap when you smog anyway...

ya, no problems here, and check my site for the install...

http//:seangordon1.tripod.com

peace

I go through an alt every year or a little more... 3 amps wear on it, and the 30% pulley probably dont help any.. I have a lifetime warrenty though, and its easy to pull it off, take it in, and swap it out for a new one...

hey vegasdsmr, the link didn't work.. is it still up?

Its there, just move the colon where it should be

Http://

ya, http://seangordon1.tripod.com

my bad....

I've got over 75K miles on my AFX udp and no belt probs other than the ones that came with it squealed like a bish, so i changed 'em out. BUT i have a stock audio system, so no issues there... Good Luck!

I'm going about 85K on my car and really have'nt had any problems with the UDP. I have upgraded stero system,fog lights, so far i'v had any problems. And suprise i still my stock batt in my vehicle. I think How one installs a UPD kinda determines if the belts get damaged or not..
I used a the old heat trick to install mine. I regularly adjust the belts for correct tension. Yes, that includes adjusting the alternator belt.

Hope this helps.

I would bet that any problem with shreading belt are due to a pulley not pressed on all the way, so the belts run at an angle instead of straight, so they wear on the edges. So just check alignments as you install and you will be fine.

Una salus victus.
"We are going to have peace even if we have to fight for it." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

I don't think the UDP, by itself, is bad for the car. It's actually a pretty good performance adder. You could really tell the difference in how the engine revs--quicker.

However, I personally, think there is a bit of a downside. Ever since the installation of the UDP, I've gone through one good battery (it became un-rechargeable). Also, when idling at night with the headlights and A/C on, my "battery" light would come on, not to mention the dimmed headlight output, too. Naturally, the "battery" light goes away when I rev up.

Further, when I left one of my dome lights on for 30 minutes one time, I had to get a jump to start my car. Usually, this wouldn't have been an issue. In my opinion, I think the UDP has its pluses and minuses--just as any mod would.

Kon Chittavong
HRC: Stage IV | http://laoracer.homestead.com/mainpage.html

I would test your alternator if I was you, or the tension of the alternator belt. I have no problems with charging on my car, and have never seem the battery light.

Una salus victus.
"We are going to have peace even if we have to fight for it." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines