LAST EDITED ON 06-Jun-01 AT 09:32 AM (PST)

Well i was driving down the rode at about 75 and the timing belt snapped. So far all i've been told is that i'm screwed. I've also called around for estimate and they are saying anywhere from 2 to 4,000.
Anyway just wondering if ANYONE can give me any kind of info on this


its 1996 2dr Hatchback, NON-TURBO, Manuel

also if the timing belt snaps is there any kind of clearance between the pistons and the valves?

Go Team 2GNT!

How many miles are on your car, Joe?

I have 69k now and you are making me nervous.

-Nick

it happened to a friend of mine about 3 moths ago in his car. his valves were damaged and had to replace them along with the timing belt. I have a hook up that can do it for about $800

Dr.Balazo

iF it snaped at 75 your motor is toast...everything probably crashed into itself...
My timing belt skipped a tooth..and ruined the motor.
Now you have 2 options.
1. rebuild (thats the 2 - 4 thousand dollars) and you could rebuild it stronger with after market parts...
or
2. Find a junk yard with a 420a, and do a swap. thats what i did...Paid 700 for the motor, and 700 to drop it in. Problem solved, and its an easy swap, cuz your just replaceing the stock motor with another...

good luck


www.vectorracing.com

Dude it sucks, I know cause I just went through it. Whne your belt snapped it prob popped your head gasket with it. From a guy who just spent $2200 at Satan to get it back and still not have it work right, please go buy yourself a new, or slightly used, engine. Put a JDM in there, you'll get more horse and it will cost less. The only reason I didn't do it as because I let satan take the top off my engine to find out if the head was blown and it was so I was already paying half the labor of fixing it so I just let them finish. You should really just get yourself a new engine, should be between $600 and $1000 depending on where you live, and the install will run $1000 at the dealership if you don't have a race shop near you.

Ouch, I cringe everytime some one says that.

We have an interferance engine. Meaning we don't have enough room between the pistins and the valves for the valves to be open and the piston to be all the way up, they will hit each other.

Damage can vary, it is possible to not ruine the piston and just bend a few valves... Hello Marcus. And it is possible to do much worse. If I were you I would take this opportunity to do a performance rebuild. Maybe the stroker kit for Skrilla. If you damaged your pistons, if not you can do some head work and replace your valves and be okay.

Depends on what you are looking for. If you wanted to add performance not is yoru chance, if not get a used or rebuilt motor and do the swap. With rental tools and a couple of friends you can do it yourself.(need the extra muscle)

BTW This demonstrated the importance of changing your timing belt every 60,000 miles!

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17.

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. Silver Cadmium Plated KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads.

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar, SS Clutch Line.

oh well there goes 600 bucks from the turbo fund. Im at 64000 and im gettin real scared

600 bucks? Jesus christ. The highest I've ever seen quoted was 400 and that included the belt. I'm changing my timing belt this week myself. Total investment: $60 for the belt and $50 for the water pump. If you cant do it yourself, then you really should shop around. Hell, Satan only quoted me 380, including belts. Heh, I've got 96k miles, original belt.




"Yes, thats Shaun shooting the finger"

96,000 miles on the original belt never changed?? Wow. You make me feel a lot better. I've got 69k, however I don't get paid until the 15th of this month, even then I have to order my underdrive pulley and wait for that to show.

So, did I mention that my car is a highway driver? 85mph for 60 miles monday through friday. Belt snaps, motor is toast.

-Nick

i gots about 78,000 mile original belt and f@#k a $500 i'll change it my damn self. f@#k if i can fix airplanes i don't see why i can't change this. anyone know where i can by the ol' DSM shop disc that covers this? didn't dino host this in adobe format??

Chris Dishmon
coming soon:
PAINT!!!!(any donations of paint code p88 would be highly appreciated)
chrisdishmon@hotmail.com
http://klipzracer.homestead.com/index.html

yeah, just look for one of his posts and its in his signature. And remember when you get stuff like that off the internet you gotta delete it in 24 hrs. and go buy it if you like it, biatch :D

javi d
vroom n' boom

Manualcd.dsm.org

You can buy the whole mess there for $35. Everything you'd ever want to know.

The one in my sig is the tech manual .. how it all works, not really how it all comes apart and goes back together.

______________________________________
-Dino Yancey
I'm so bad, i should be in detention.


Get the Mitsubishi Technical Information manual for the 95-99 Eclipse HERE!
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/dsmmanual.pdf

What gear were you in when it snapped? I was going about 65 mph in top gear (fourth for my automatic) so around 2500 rpm or so. I was lucky and only bent a few valves. If you are replacing them, they are 40 bucks EACH from the dealer. I highly recommend you order them from Road Race Engineering because they have 16 Stainless steel valves for only $250. They are better than stock.

BTW, when my stock exhaust valves were taken out, the ones that weren't bent were all pitted and nasty looking. They weren't smooth at all, and Mike said it looked pretty bad for an engine with only 45k miles on it...any ideas why they're in such bad condition?

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom

if you guys are gonna do the belt yourself, make sure you get a puller for your crank pulley first! I did mines but left my car in my friends garage for almost 2 weeks just because i couldn't get the damn pulley off.

well at 85 i was in 5th gear...i dont drive my car THAT hard lol

anyway, i have never worked on a foreign engine and just curious of all that i'm going to need.

I'll probably go with the valves that i was told to get.
Will i most likely have to machine the head at all?
I'll also need to replace the water pump?

oh well..also, say i know some stuff on engines but not the greatest and i have 1 other friend helpin me fix this thing...how long do you think it would take?

I'm in the military and the only shop we have is the one on base and they charge like 5 to 10 bucks a day to keep it there.

anyway thanks for all the info

Joe

No sweat if you don't know foreign engines that well ... ours is american! It's a Crystler motor built in Normal, Illinois! :)

If you ar egoing to do this yourself, you are definately going to need some special tools. 3 Arm 3 Ton+ pulley puller, need to make sure the arms go to a small diameter, valve spring compressor, well that's what comes to mind right now.

Definately check the head to see if it has warped at all, and if so you'll need to have it milled. I suggest a new headgasket while you have the head off. Also make sure you chack the valve seats with everythign being belt and pushed around you could easily have scored the valve seats. In which case the best bet is to send it away to get a three angle valve job to clean it up. But there is a way to cheat, I can't remember what to use, I can ask my friend if he remembers, it's like an abraisive gel. Use that on the valve seats a drill and one of the old unbelt valves and actualy polish down the valve seats. This has the same effect as a valve job... basically what they do but with the right bits. I've seem this done and work very well. But I don't know that I would recommend it.

So what do I recommend. From the sounds of it for you I think your best bet, and by the way, most likely what I would do. Take the head off yourself and send it somewhere to have the work done, and then reinstall it yourself. With a shops tools they will have it done quicker and can really check for things your eye can't catch.

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17.

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. Silver Cadmium Plated KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads.

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar, SS Clutch Line.

Ive been studying that childons manual for about a month.. Reading changing the headgasket and timing belt and that shit dont look easy......YUP the dealer told me 600 bucks

anyone in Sacramento think they can help me change it...In one or two days???????????????????????????????????????????

BTW< you may also need new valve guides...I know I did...

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom