Ok, when it comes to engines, i dont know a lot. So please be very in depth with your explaination.

Anyway, the bolt that hold tension on my timing belt broke of causeing my timing belt to either stop or come off, or something. SO my dad took it to a guy he knows who has shop. The guy used some small instrument to see if the inside of the engine was damaged, and alas, it was. So now I need a whole new engine.

Dino mentioned getting the Howell Stroker kit. Is this a complete new engine block or what? Cause that is what I need? I also tried to brownse the Howell board and they said something about purchasing a pre-built short block from them. So I am assuming this is the complete engine right. All i would need to get still is like the timing belts, oil pans, etc....all the small stuff. Am I correct on this or not? Becuase the guy my dad talked to said that it is best to replace all the belts and stuff if I drop a new engine in there.

Finally, if there is such a pre built howell short block. Is this the same engine 420a? Or is it something else? is HP the same, torque, etc. SOMEONE KNOWLEDGABLE AND WITH LOTS OF PATIENCE PLEASE EXPLAIN THIS TO ME!!!!

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
jim



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no problem Jim the howell stroker kit is an engine block same as the 420a but with more displacement so instead of 2.0L you will have 2.2L so you will get more HP and TQ all you need to do is pull out the motor and pull the head then put the head on the howell block then put the motor back in. It's not that easy but you get the idea. Is your head dammaged also (bent valves or anything) oh btw you will retain your oil pan you will need new timing belt and other parts depending on how much you do w the head or how you pull it out. Your going to need to take parts off your current engine or buy new ones. like water pump stuff like that (I don't know what all comes with the howell short block but I'm guessing you would need those things) PS pulleys all that stuff

<edit> DAMNIT someobe beat me too it. ohwell.

here's a link to howell's new website:
http://howell.mountain.net/sdc/howell/Talon-Elipse95-99.asp

here's a link to the stroked prebuilt block:
http://howell.mountain.net/sdc/howell/ProductAvail.asp?Product_ID=454

since you may have damaged your block/pistons i don't know if you can send it in as a core to get a few hundred off, but talk to howell about that before you order it. it is a fully prebuilt block w/ everything you see on that above link, and it is stroked to 2.2L instead of being the regular 2.0L. if you want to save some money you can get the 2.0L prebuilt block instead and drop that in there. either one would work but you'd get more hp/tq out of the 2.4L.

Thanks peeps, i talked to my dad too so i understand a little more. Problem is, my valves are bent, so I would need a new head also. Does Howell sell these? My dad says I shouldent use the stuff off my old engine since it has wear on it. So again, one more long explanation is needed. Could someone look over this 2.2l Engine located here,http://howell.mountain.net/sdc/howell/ProductAvail.asp?Product_ID=454 see the stuff included, and list EVERYTHING I would need to make this engine work assuming I sold everything and anything that is under my hood. Thanks for the quick responses too! I love 2gnt. Also, my dad is worried because there is no warranty where as companys like Jasper provide a warranty with their engine. Is this something to be afraid of or what? It says pre-built in the description. So does this mean it is a USED engine or what? Thanks agin1!!!!




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You don't need a new head. Just replace the valves after you check that the guides and seals are okay. if the guides and seals are fine, you just need 16 new valves and a valve job.

lol, i just responded to ur post in the general section dino. If you want, you can delete the poll and post. Anyway Dino, like i said, i dont know too much about engine and in the above post, the guy said, "is your head damageed(valves bent etc..)" SO i assumed that the valves were part of the head or something. I told you, im not smart with engines. So your saying all i need is new vavles. How much will those run me and where can I get them?


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You can use new factory valves, which i beleive are under $200 for a set of 8 intake and 8 exhaust, or you can go stainless steel (from Howell) which are slightly over $200 for the set. I'd buy factory valve stem seals as well, since you'll be in there. The guides are probably fine, i don't think a stock valve is really strong enough to do much damage to them.

Since it jumped time, changes are really good the bottom end is fine. Get the head off of it, take some sandpaper to the pistons to take the scratches out of them (if you want to get off really cheap), and just replace the valves and button it back up. New timing belt tensioner, new timing belt, new idler pulley, you're good to go.

Now if you want to spend some cash on it, get the stroker shortblock and some 1mm oversized valves from Howell, new valve stem seals, and rebuild the head. All told it'll probably cost you $4k, but you'll have a hell of a motor.

I am thinking there has to be more wrong with the engine. Cause this is one of my dads friends and he woudlent lie to me if he didnt think i would need a new engine. I will ask about just replacing the valves and see what he says.

But assuming that is not the case, where are these stainless stell valves. I went thru Howell's old site and new site and did not see them listed?

Is there some kit out there that I could buy that would include everything other little thinkg (ps belts, etc) i would need to install this engine?

Dino, why do you say one hell of a engine. I readlize I would have a lil more hp and tq with the 2.2. But do you mean "hell of an engine"
as in speed or just durabilty and reliabilty. And what are you basing your comments on since it seems this shortblock is fairly new.

NOTE..it may sound like im not in favor of this engine, but I am. My dad is not so i have to convince him, this is why I am asking where, you base your comments on. :)

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In a sense....your engine would be bulletproof. Kinda. It will be 100x stronger than stock...but getting into that is alot of money...





Life is a bitch. Slap it around a little.

TURBO-HRC stage 1 Moddified

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email me at Anthonyl469@aol.com




"When you reach real ability you will be able to become one with the enemy. Entering his heart you will see that he is not your enemy after all." -Tjusii

not to get off the subject to much i was also looking at those motors, why does it say for RACE purpose only? can these engines not be driven on daily? how much boost can those motors safely hold
thanx
jesse

i think they just say that the same way afx says about the pulley

So if I get this engine and 16 new valves. I know I am going to need power steering belts, timing belt. WHat else do i need to make this engine work? And where can i get em at? Is there some package someone sells that includes everything I need?



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>not to get off the subject to much i was also looking at those >motors, why does it say for RACE purpose only? can these engines not >be driven on daily? how much boost can those motors safely hold

Ok so it says race use only so that if it doesn't comply with state laws they are not responsable (if it failed emmissions or visual inspections in some states. The 2.2 liter is fine for daily driving it's just a strengthend and longer stroke motor) as for how much boost We don't know but I wouldn't immagine that it's any less than the 2.0 bottom end kit would hold

>Dino, why do you say one hell of a engine. I readlize I would have a >lil more hp and tq with the 2.2. But do you mean "hell of an engine"
>as in speed or just durabilty and reliabilty. And what are you >basing your comments on since it seems this shortblock is fairly new.


I'm not dino but he said that because with a strengthend bottom end and head you could really do something with it. If you have turbo and you up the boost with forged internals .2 extra lieters of displacement and some head work (valve job/ mabye P&P intake mani and head plus stronger valves) you could really have a great engine. so you could really click off some good times.

>I am thinking there has to be more wrong with the engine. Cause this >is one of my dads friends and he woudlent lie to me if he didnt >think i would need a new engine. I will ask about just replacing the >valves and see what he says.

You have to take the head off regardless of what you decide to do with the motor. So I say Go ahead and pull off the head and see what your really dealing with. It's not all that hard it's just scary. plus If your going to have someone else put it together anyway then you don't have to worry about getting it back together.

As far as a whole kit to do every thing I'm not really sure. Is your car stock or do you have UDP or what is on there?
If you do decide to go with the 2.2L you will need T-Belt and related parts (see dino's post for answer), Mabye water pump (can't tell from the site) and fix what ever is wrong with your valves if anything.
P.S. sorry this was so long

So this engine already has a rebuilt bottom end, which makes it stronger, and does it already have forged internals? Is there anything else that makes this engine stronger than say buying a used one. My parents are still stuck on this no warranty thing.

Would you all agree that buying this one is smarter than buying a used one off a junked eclipse?



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Everyone is giving up some good answers but, i would recommend calling Howell and explaining your situation. They could give you options and walk you through everything you may need. It's a lot easier than searching the web for all the info.

Yes Jim it has forged internals it's a forged internal stroked motor. It's "bullet proof" all the guy's that are running 20psi and what not (bastards I can't wait to be running it with you) they are using the same thing except for the stroker crank that adds the extra displacement of .2L. Do we know exactly whats wrong with it yet? Now you have spoke about jasper engines ask any mechanic they will tell you they are crap. (at least all the ones I talked to that were not trying to sell them to me) as far as buying a used one: You don't know what your getting. At least with this you know your getting something really strong. Now what are your plans for the future? If you are not going to do anything but daily drive it then I would look into the cheapst option. But I am going to say this BEFORE YOU MAKE THIS DECISION YOU NEED TO FIND OUT HOW BAD YOUR ENGINE IS. Otherwise you may make the wrong move for your future goals and for your wallet. Where are you located anyway?

well yes, daily driving it mostly. But. from what Dino (thanks btw) has been telling me, this engine will last longer than a used one. So in essence this might not be the cheapest right now, but down the road, a cheap used engine might start going thru more problems and cost me more money. Rather than just spending more now, having a bullet proof engine if i ever wanna turbo, and having less problems down the road.

You speak of this crankshaft. Unless I buy that seperately I will not benefit from the extra .2 displacement? So I will still be running hp/tq of a regurlar 2.0 420a?


Also, what would eb the best mods to get the most outta this engine, besides turbo of course. I alerady have a CAI. I was thinking bored TB and udp.

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Yeah Jim thats right in my eairler post I talked about a used engine in the same way you don't know who owned it or what they did to it. When I said the cheapest option what I ment was pull the head see whats really wrong with it. Then if all you need is rings or something you could just replace those till your ready for something more. The only reason I say look at it first is that my dad's best friend is a mechanic, and he knows a shitload about cars but he is not that knowledgeable about mine. So although he wouldn't try to rip me off he has been wrong before you know? The 2.2L crate motor comes with the stroker crankshaft the pistons, rods, piston rings all of that already installed. the crankshaft is what gives you the extra .2L. If you get just the bottom end rebuild kit then you would have 2.0L hp/tq. And Dino is completely right about the Bullet prof. reliable for years and years thing it will far outlast any used motor.

got prices from a mechanic.. when its all said and done if I dont need a new head, it will be around 4100. if i do need a new head it will be around 5k.

Also, the mechanic said something about with this engine, he would have to adjust timing and such. is this accurate or is he just trying to make some extra money?

So bascially, if i do need a new head...this engine would cost the same amount as it would to get a jasper engine which my dad is SOOOOOO fond of. :rolleyes stupid ass 3yr warranty

Anyone have any Jasper Engine Horror Story websites i could show it.




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