I'm curious as to how many people on the board have done this. What are your thoughts/opinions? Also, I cant get the mod page to come up, if anyone has the info on how to remove it, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I did mine with Thunderous Talon. Its pretty easy. YOu just take out the spring from inside the place where you bleed the clutch. It isnt a huge improvment but you can tell the clutch engages quicker. I think the page that had pics isnt working anymore. But I am sure you can do it. Its easy.

yes grabs faster and higher I believe. You should see the tiny hole they make the brake fluid go through, it's really tiny. Erm don't know if it's good for the clutch to grab that fast though, but my clutch is still grabbin (not so good) after like 100k miles.

You know what, i had done this mod, and esp after i installed my new wheels and tires, and motor mount inserts, i had a hard time launching the car well. I'd either bog it, or spin out the tires. The clutch pedal just didnt have enought grabbing "play" with it, it engaged and disengaged with too little pedal, making it harder to slip the clutch out at a launch. So i put it back in, and i can get awsome launches now..Maybe i just didn't have enough skill to launch it that way, but i'm leaving it in, as it was much easier to launch IMO..some may disagree though..I'd say try it out, and see how you like it. If ya dont, then just slap it back in :) Its really easy to do..

Ok, so launching is more difficult. So, this will make for faster shifts? I have to get my pedal nearly all the way on the floor in order not to grind 2nd. 3rd is no problem. I think this would help me not to miss 2nd so often. If it doesnt help, I can always put it back in. How do you do it Dave? Just take apart the slave cylinder?

You take it off and use one of them pen magnets to take out the little restrictor. Then put it back together.

You just have to take off the fluid line going into the slave cylinder. After you get it off, there will be a metal piece in there, with a small spring behind it. Take that out, reconnect the line, and bleed the system.

I wouldn't put the restrictor back if you paid me. I have the restrictor removed and a stainless steel clutch line. The clutch feel like a cable clutch, when you let off the clutch pedal everythign moves as your foot does, I love my set up. The restrictor is there to make things smooth and engage slower, certainly not what I want. If you've never driven anything but hydrollic clutches you probably don't know what I'm talking about. But the feel is far more direct.

I recomend restrictor removal and SS clutch line ($20 from Road Race).

Una salus victus.
"We are going to have peace even if we have to fight for it." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines