...since I've read like 4 emails and 5 posts about spun rod syndrome I've written a quick DIY...

...basically your engine is divided into four major parts (well on of them is not so major). The cylinder head, block, bedplate and oil pan. Look at your under drive pulley, the pulley spins from the crank. The crank sits between the bedplate and the block. To inspect your crank and rod bearings you have to understand how the bearings work, which is simple. The bearings are meant to face the same direction; we'll say "North" and "South". The bearings are basically a circle and divided at the "equator" bisecting it perfectly. The halves stay in that position as the crank and rods rotate, which means they stay in the "north" and "south" position. As soon as the North bearing gets dry it will rotate and head West and the southern bearing heads east and Vise Versa. Remember the bearings are always to remain at north and south. When the bearings are installed they are at sort of an oval so when they do go into different directions they begin Forcing their way through the Con Rod cap and stretching the bolts with their tiny notches that keep them in place. You can actually drive the car mildly for a several thousand miles before the damage is irreparable. I was lucky enough to only experience bearing burns which slightly scored my crank, so it wasn't anything bad at all, my bearings didn't even move out of position. After speaking to a Certified Viper Technician I found out that the problem spawns from improper engine break in. The piston rings don't properly seat and it causes A LOT of oil blow-by. That was my case, it cost 2.5Q after 3000 miles (to be exact) and additional quart later on. It is still pretty safe after just a 1.5Q of loss and 2500 miles but for our engines I would keep the oil topped off so you don't have to worry about it - so check it weekly. This problem can actually be fixed (if it's mild enough) without removing the engine from the car. Which I could have done but now I know what I didn't know then. Inspection of it requires dropping the oil pan, bell housing to bedplate bracket (VERY minor) and "I" beam (which the front motor mount is on). It is 4 bolts 2 17mm and 2 15mm. The Motor Mount bolt is 9/16's - VERY important because I stripped 2 already trying to use a 14mm. Then you just drop the pan. You would then check for metallic shavings in your oil pan and on the gauze (sp?) of the oil pump pickup. If you don't see any then you pull the connecting rod caps and physically look at each bearing. If anyone plans on doing this then pay attention to the way the bearings fit on each other. Each cap is specific for each rod as they are set together then split to create a perfect seal for reinstallation. The bearings are held in place by the rod and cap so this is important. This is something anyone could do so if anyone has questions drop me some mail. To do the whole thing requires the following sockets: 12mm, 9/16", 15mm, 17mm and 19mm to rotate the UDP and rotating assembly. I used a regular ratchet, offset flex head ratchet, 3/8" drive 3" socket extension and 3/8" drive 6" socket extension. Be sure to have a manual to properly torque down everything and possibly a reducer from 1/2" to 3/8" for use with a 1/2" drive torque wrench on that small a$$ 12mm socket. I only have a 1/2" drive torque wrench anyway so this is something I needed. That's it, off the top of my head, so I'm like 95% confident, but all the steps are correct.

I've had no problems getting the mount out off with metric sockets, so most probably won't have a problem, but it always helps to have a standard set of sockets standing by.

Una salus victus.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

what about the exhaust downpipe? doesent that have to come off too?
thanks
james

do u guys recommend using the stock rod & main bearing when doing a rebuild or buy some stock replacements or get some aftermarket onces?
i got about 40k miles on my car with 10k with turbo about.. i plan to rebuild sometime this yr i hope but i might buy a spare block and head i might rebuild mine or rebuild a spare..


Michael 99gs
Mods:
Hrc Stage 2
S-FMU
315cc injectors
Crane HI-6DI2
Greddy Type S Bov
VC-2
Road Race Catch Can
Greddy Profec B & Switch
Apexi WS Catback
Super Afc
Autometer Boost, electric fuel, Egt, Tranny Temp Gauge & Cooler, Air/Fuel Light & Digital
Tokico Adjust Struts
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Front & Rear Upper Bar
2 piston calipers(front), powerslot rotors, r4-s pads, & rre lines
CarCraft Interior
Sound System= Bring it On

...the downpipe and exhaust can be left on. You unbolt the pan(but you can't remove it) and pull the oil pump pickup. I think it's 2 12mm also.

Poly - If you're doing a rebuild then replace all the bearings

We pulled the motor out leaving the downpipe (because it was rusted so bad at the cat I didn't feel like messing with it. Dropped the crossmember, and left the oil pan and pick up on. And the pick up is only one 12mm bolt if memory serves.

Replace the bearings, all of them, I suggest the cleavite 77 bearings.

Una salus victus.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

I suppose you have to pull the engine to put new bearing in, huh? Can you do it from under the car with the oil pan off? guess not cause you cant get the crank out unless you pull the engine, huh?

Well, if upon inspection, the crank isn't scored too badly, then it can just be polished with emory cloth, and the new bearings put in.
-=B-=

You don't need to pull the crank to do the conrod bearings or remove the engine, since that is all this little write up is about