OK, I was on my way home from work today and when I started the car it sounded a little funny. I decided to drive w/o the stereo on so I could listen for any strange noises. I noticed that whenever I drive over 3500rpm that the engine (atleast thats what it sounds like is rattling) which gets faster as the revs increase. So I drove home never going more than 3500rpm. I am overdue for an oil change, but I planned on doing it this afternoon. Anybody have any ideas?? Tia

Yeah i've already gone through this. It's loud as fuck at all RPM ranges. It basically sounds like somebody knocking a wrench against your manifold. So if you had to turn down your stereo, it's a good chance it's not it. Oddly enough, however, I didn't notice any power decrease with mine. Also, my oil light came on. You waiting to do the oil change does scare me... I was overdue for an oil change and that's when mine happened.



I'm crossing my fingers for you,

-Chris

well I so have a sub in my car which bumps pretty hard. The car is still under warranty so if it is a spun bearing its going to satan. It doesnt sound like someone is beating on anything, just rattling. Im not suffering any power loss and my oil light isnt on. It has been going on and off if I corner relatively hard sometimes, but thats normal. Im thinking that it may be one of my spark plugs coming alose (sp).

Shit, there's a good chance you have spun a bearing. That's what happened to me. Everytime I cornered it came on and eventually stayed on. How long did you wait to change the oil? Also, bring it to Satan ASAP before worst things happen.

-Chris

when you change your oil put in one range thicker. or just dump in some 20w-50. if that makes the rattle go away your lookin at some bearings.

YUP, sounds like a spun bearing. Mine was due to oil consumption problems and he oil light never came on because the light only comes on when there is less than 5 psi oil pressure. Take it in to satan and have all your oil change receipts cause they will ask for them.



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current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


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...drain your oil into a shoallow container, but wide/long enough so that you can inspect it's contents. Check for silver flakes. If you see ANY then you do have a spun bearing. You will also have to drop your oil pan. It's a major PITA. You will need to drop your I beam and some support brackets on the block then keeps that helps protect the pan. Thicker oil doesn't always rid the loud ticking sound but can sometimes delay the inevitable. Spun rods bearing are funny. You coud, drive your car for a while, like 7 months which my friend did or 2 months before the ticking is unbearable and you know you can't keep driving it. Either way the FIX is to pull the block and machine the crank and/or jounals if possible, with the correct bearing. I know the dealer sells at least 3 sizes for the amount of machining you may need to perform

shit mang....i jus had an oil change and i swear they didn't put any oil in my car :( i threw some oil in and now i hear a sound from around my bay....If i listen it's like i have a tiny sub in my front end somewhere. I don't know if it does it when i am only moving or what though. I do know that it is bugging me though. Y'all think its a bearing or me ogin nuts on somethin small since i have no cd player for the time being, and have nothing to listen to except the engine?

...or you burned it off. If you have a sun bearing you might have burned it off. We do have mopar blocks, and if they aren't properly broken in they will burn oil. I got my Talon used and it went to 3.5Q in a 2 months, the lack of oil spun my rod bearing.

well I just got back in from speaking with one of the guys in my car club who is a mechanic at chrysler and he affirmed it. I AM A VICTIM OF THE SPUN BEARING. Im going to mitsu tomorrow to get it looked at. I only have 56,6XX miles on the car so Im still covered by the powertrain warranty, besides the additional warranty that was purchased with the car. He said I shouldnt have any problems with them replacing it. He said that they will probably put a new shortblock in the car rather than rebuilding it. Ill let you guys know how it goes

YUP! New shortblock is what they always seem to do, I've got one from the first spun bearing. The 2nd time they only replaced the bearing and crank.


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current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


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I wonder if they would let you keep your old block after the install?

Keep it and build it :thumbsup

^^^^^^probobly not....core charge, ya know

did you check your tensioner pulley? i heard some noise just like that and it was the tensioner pulley bearing for the PC and AC belt. that bearing is a piece of shit. i'm trying to find a better one
lates
james

well i just got back from the dealership and fortunately the guy that we know that works there told me that he doesnt think that its a spun bearing, but it maybe the tensioner (like jamesman said). Even if it is they still have to take the T-belt off right??? He also told me that there was a new tsb (or something like that) which states that any aftermarket modification done to a particular part of the car voids the warranty, such as my exhaust voids the warranty on the engine and my springs on the suspension. So now I have to get my stock muff welded back on into its place so that it atleast looks stock from the outside. He said it may not void the warranty, but they will be looking for anything just to be able to say no and to do it just because.

That's BS bro, they can't Void your warranty for that, they are trying to not warranty your stuff and save themselves money. I would suggest getting a lawyer.

They tried that with me, they pulled out a TSB saying that oil loss of up to 1 qt per 1000 miles, (in other words having 1 qt left in the engine after 3 weeks) is NORMAL!!!!! They did that because they couldn't figure out why my new engine was loosing oil and didn't want to deal with me anymore.



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current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


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www.Fast420A.com

...that's BS! They are trying to rape you. If you hear an audible ticking then it is a spun rod bearing (most likely). Get a second opinion or free estimate at an experienced shop.

well I plan on calling mitsubishi of america (or whatever its called) tomorrow and find out for sure. He even told me that there was no way in hell that the exhaust could possibly cause whatever the problem may be. This guy is pretty well known in the NC DSM community and he was just looking out for me. Ill definitely find out for sure tomorrow though

I also wanted to ask you guys, the ones that had the spun bearing, when you checked your dipstick did it have any metal shavings in the oil?? The guy said that when something similar happened to one of his 4G63's he had little metal bits in the oil.

Chris, why did your oil light come on? were you low on oil? i have this ticking also, i used my mechanics stethascope and it appears to be coming from the top of the engine above cylinder 1 i think it is a lash adjuster, BUT if it is a spun bearing, how will i know. I just changed my oil, and i did not see much metal bits, just a little bit of little sparkles, which i believe is normal for breaking in. I just rebuilt my engine, and i was never low on oil so what is the likelyhood that it is a spun bearing. I really hope it ain't, i'm honestly getting sick of all this maintainance.
thanks
james

I'll give some advice right now , Do not start your engine untill you done this, first of all some guys get differen't sounds when spinning the rod bearings, Ive spun my rod bearings before because I had a blown headgasket and coolant was going into the oil pan. for me it sounded like there was a bunch of funking marbles rolling around in the oil pan. If your car shut off? on you while you were driving it would be cause of lack of oil preassure a kinda safty feature, don't start the car up please , jack that mother up drop the oil pan and drop those rod bolts push the rods up A" LITTLE" check for scouring metal flakes, and check to see that the rod bearings are not overlaping each other. you can save your engine if it is not too bad. if the rod bearing is the problem, our cranks are pretty solid so just use emry cloth and get the ridges out and scratches out.a set of rod bearings should not cost more than 20bucks from the dealer for all 4 rods, I've added changing my rod bearings every year for maitenance now since I'm turbo. A couple of hrs can save you a headache. its simple just don't push the pistons up too high because you might push them too high and the top piston ring might come out, trust me you have alotta room down there. do 2 rods at a time make sure that the 2 you do first are "NOT AT TDC" its impossible to take the rod bolts out if the piston is at TDC itz way up there, You'll see what I'm talking about latz bro good luck

thanks for the info, i'm praying that the ticking is not my rod bearings, but my lash adjusters or timing belt tensioner pulleys. i'm going to pull the oilpan and see how the bearings are tonight. if they are okay then i will try to see what else could be causing it. i'm getting sick of this. my car hasn't worked for a month straight without having problems. I guess eventually it will work nicely. we'll see
thanks
james

How much is it to fix a spun bearing? I have one right now- thats why i can't drive mny car. I haven't taken it to a shop yet cause I dont have all the $$, im just savin up. I have $570 so far. Anyway, I was planning on having to rebuild the whole bottom end, but that is gonna be so expensive, and I am tired of not having my car to drive. What all do they have to replace and how much is it? Thanx in advance!

-David

I think that depends on how bad the damage is. If it hasnt gotten too bad, im sure they could just replace a couple of things and if it is really bad then they may have to replace the entire bottom end.

Well it has gotten pretty bad. I drove a while (couple of months, still running it hard- stupid i know) with the little ticking sound, then one day I was driving around a road around here (316 if anyone here is from GA) testing out my UDP I had just gotten put on the day before, and it got 200 times worse. I started getting MAJOR power loss, and the sound in my engine sounds like there are rocks being thrown around in my engine. I haven't driven it since that day except from the parking lot I parked it in back to my driveway. So do you think I am gonna need to rebuild it all? I wanna drive my baby again! Thanx for the replies!

-David

well i took my engine apart and found that my rod bearing in cylinder 1 was bad. it did not spin, it was still seated in the grooves, but it was all worn out the rod journal was not too bad so i used the emery paper like skrilla said and smoothed it out then used 600 grit sandpaper to finish the surface. I never ran low on oil, the oil channel in the crank is clear and the main bearing is lined up correctly. now what i want to know is how the fuck this happened. what are other causes of "spun" bearings other than lack of oil?
thanks
james

Good job jamesman in finding the problem I kinda felt that it was your rod bearings. yeah polish that crank up real nice and put some new rod bearings. Did your car ever overheat or anything like that, advice always add a bottle of oil additive like a quart of lucus oil, slick 50 ETC, ETC prolong you name it I recommend lucus though. atleast you caught it before it got real bad. good thing you didn't start that motor up again. keep us informed when your done and how it sounds.

well there was a time that my car overheated a couple weeks back, could that have caused it? well, i was wondering if putting in a thicker weight oil will be any extra protection against this. like 20W 50. i'm in so cal, so it rarely gets cold here or maybe a 15W something. i really don't want this to happen again, i'm seriously getting sick of all this damn maintainance, if it ain't one thing its another.
thanks
James