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Forum namePerformance/Engine
Topic subjectEngine rebuild prices...
Topic URLhttps://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=i5&topic_id=24396
24396, Engine rebuild prices...
Posted by JasonESi_T, Jun-03-02 07:02 AM
I know others have brought up their own prices before, but I wanted other people's takes on some of the prices that appear to be the going rate around these parts.

It appears that, without assembly, the rebuild costs can amount to about $250 for the short block which includes typical decking, line honing, boring, balancing, and general cleaning it up. The assembly for the entire engine is about $300 and just $100 for the short block.

Should I have the machine shop build it all up or can I take on something like assembly? Are these prices reasonable?

Thanks guys. :-)
24397, RE: Engine rebuild prices...
Posted by Michael_97RS, Jun-03-02 09:48 AM
It may be easier to have the machine shop do it. But we can rebuild it. And your prices seem right on target from what I've seen and heard.

Una salus victus.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines
24398, RE: Engine rebuild prices...
Posted by JasonESi_T, Jun-03-02 01:12 PM
Alright Mike. You're on bud! :-) (That's the spirit! ;-) )
24399, RE: Engine rebuild prices...
Posted by Kiku, Jun-03-02 01:35 PM
Yeah that's about right. I got quoted about 500 bux for cleaning, honing, flux, check rod ends and pistons/rings, assemble, balance the short block

_________________
Vinnie Lima
kiku@asog.net
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

24400, RE: Engine rebuild prices...
Posted by Dave_FL, Jun-03-02 02:04 PM
Your lucky, I am paying a little over a $1000. But I am getting some head work done and he is installing everything including timing belt, timing belt tensioner, timing belt pulley and bracket, idler pulley, water pump, and he is assembling the long block and balancing everything, plus cleaning everything and painting the block as well.
24401, RE: Engine rebuild prices...
Posted by Nitrous_RS1997, Jun-03-02 02:34 PM
Those prices seem right on par. you could reassemble the shortblock yourself no problem, though it really helps to have a motor stand that rotates to help out. any questions, lemme know. we have a built a few 420A's... :-)
24402, RE: Engine rebuild prices...
Posted by fatchance, Jun-03-02 02:44 PM
My engine is rather high mileage(160K on a 95) would a rebuild extend my expected engine life/ durability should I decide to boost it?
24403, RE: Engine rebuild prices...
Posted by DarkOne, Jun-03-02 04:41 PM
Boost it first. (or commit and build it RIGHT!) Why waste money on a stock rebuild, then blow that up and have to do it again?
24404, Exaclty...
Posted by Skrilla, Jun-04-02 08:30 AM
...what Dino said. get it over with and enjoy pressure without worrying about your block.

Jason ya those prices sound right but I'm sure you would rather tackle it yourself. If you don't have an engine stand then tear apart the whole thing while inside your car. The block and complete rotating assembly is still like 150-200 pounds.
24405, RE: Exaclty...
Posted by Michael_97RS, Jun-04-02 10:26 AM
Engine stand and lift covered, no problem. Oddly enough they were used two weeks ago on a a 420A. :D

Una salus victus.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines
24406, RE: Exaclty...
Posted by Hek, Jun-04-02 01:25 PM
Is it pretty easy to do the removal/instalation on the 420A engine.

Also do you leave the tranny bolted on when you lift it or do you unbolt it.
24407, RE: Exaclty...
Posted by Dave_FL, Jun-04-02 01:50 PM
When mine came out the tranny was left on it but the car was up on a lift. Its a bit tricky getting it out from the top with the tranny attached but it is possible.
24408, RE: Exaclty...
Posted by Nitrous_RS1997, Jun-04-02 04:17 PM
We take them out from the bottom, and put them back in from the bottom (with a lift of course). this turned out to be the easier way, least to me it was.
24409, RE: Exaclty...
Posted by Michael_97RS, Jun-05-02 12:34 AM
Actually the only thing in the way of pulling it out the top was the ECU. Once that was removed she came right up.

Una salus victus.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines
24410, RE: Exaclty...
Posted by Kiku, Jun-05-02 05:35 AM
Go to www.asog.net/kiku/dza or one of the directories under www.asog.net/kiku


I've removed these 420a's from any possible position you can think of. If you got an engine hoist (no lifts), it is safer (and cheaper!) to unbolt the flex plate from the clutch and unbolt the engine from tranny, then lift the engine out from the top (with some wiggling). That way you dont have to spend time or money undoing the tranny (and spend money on that expesive mopar tranny fluid!)


_________________
Vinnie Lima
kiku@asog.net
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

24411, WOW...
Posted by Skrilla, Jun-05-02 07:37 PM
...after pulling 4 myself this is Exaclty what I do. At 1st I pulled the engine with the tranny attached and had to angle it. It was a must for 2 men to do it this way. Now I use some floor jacks for the tranny and pull the engine up with the picker
24412, RE: WOW...
Posted by babybeclipse, Jun-06-02 11:26 AM
ditto, That the same way Michael and I pulled the motor.

so just under a grand for machine work and assembly.

HMMM...rebuild or trans swap?

Trans swap ;)
24413, RE: WOW...
Posted by Dave_FL, Jun-06-02 12:31 PM
>ditto, That the same way Michael and I pulled the motor.
>
>so just under a grand for machine work and assembly.
>
>HMMM...rebuild or trans swap?
>
>Trans swap ;)

Its going to be way more than a grand TRUST ME.

24414, RE: WOW...
Posted by fatchance, Jun-06-02 02:27 PM
Going back to what Dino told me, Is there even a snowballs chance in hell of an engine with 160K on it surviving boost?

Thanx

Phil
24415, RE: WOW...
Posted by babybeclipse, Jun-07-02 12:48 AM
I don't have a problem puting the motor together it's just getting the timing right that I'm afraid of.

Anyone build their own motor?

Mike, You put that motor together yet?

Let me know if you need a hand :thumbsup