They are going in this weekend. Bill (the1bill) and I are going to tear apart our cars and hopefully do this right. I am a bit worried about this one, as it involves the timing belt which I do NOT want to mess up.

Could someone who has performed the installation give me a procedure to follow? Anything I should look out for? Any special tools (besides the puller for the crankshaft pulley) I should need?

Think about it this way, if you write out a nice long detailed procedure, it will almost certainly be copied by Juan (or Dino, or whomever) and posted on the main page with your name on it ;) just in case you need more incentive than helping me go faster to type the stuff out :P

Remember, more details are better than less details

1. loosen passenger front lug nuts.

2. Jack the car up, support with jack stands.

3. Remove passenger side forn ttire and splash guards.

4. Remove passenger side motor mount. Remove coolant overflow tank to get to the bolts. Jack up on motor as needed to move up and down. There are a couple long bolts, so you'll need to move the motor around. It may be neccessary to remove the bolt from the drivers side (trans) mount, to be able to get the motor high enough.

5. Loosen crank bolt. Best way I've found with UDP: Use two bolts from harmonic balncer removal tool thread all the way into the pulley and wedge a screw driver between bolts and against the frame rail, this will hold the crank pulley still so you can get enough torque to loosen the crankbolt.

6. Detension accessory belts and remove. Make sure motor is at top dead center.

7. Remove crank pulley. With puller only have bolt out from crank ~1" at a time.

8. Remove timing belt cover. 3 bolts, 2 bottom one top.

9. Loosen the bolts that holds cams to cam gears.

10. Remove timing belt tensioner. With a vice compress timing belt tensioner and hold with allen wrench in depressed position.

11. Slide the timing belt off.

12. Remove cams bolts, and install adj. cam gears. tighten cam bolts as much as posible without rotating cams.

13. Put timing belt back on. make sure all timing marks line up. Leave the slack in the timing belt on the back side of teh motor. Timing belt tight around the front side and around the cam gears. (you will need two people for this)

14. When all timing marks line up and slack is on the back side of the belt. Re-install tensioner and pull out allen wrench.

15. DOUBLE CHECK THAT ALL TIMING MARKS ARE ALIGNED AT TDC, BEFORE YOU START TO PUT EVERYTHING BACK ON.

16. Tighten your cam bolts, there are a couple of small head bolts behind the cam gear you gan get a ratchet with an extension on. Use the ratchet to hold the cam gears in place while you tighten down the cam bolts.

17. Put everything back together.


That's what I get form memory, anyone see anythign missing please let us know.


Una salus victus.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Roadraceengineering.com has a 2gnt cam gear install page.

Timing isn't fun, just did one on a 4g63 last weekend.

Hey check out my sig link to the belt replacement, it should help you out some. Its really not that hard, and the hardest part of it is the crank pulley removal, and the side motor mount plate removal, after that, its fairly easy. I did it all by myself, and always double check your timing marks before you start the car. Be sure to rotate the motor at least 4 revolutions and then check the timing marks. They should all line up perfectly, being the cam sprocket marks, and the arrow and notch on the crank gear..

That was the longest 2 days of hell to get the cam gears on. The side motor mount is very hard to get off. The long bolts on the side are really a pain. I had to bend the lines that run by there so I could slide the bolts between them so I had enough room to back them out. It's not fun.

yeah they are a biotch. I ended up removing the front and both side motor mounts, jacking the engine up to where it looked like this \ from the front. BUT, my motor may have been a special case. It is a rebuild(figured this out on the cam job), and my bolts are all the same length, and they are freakishly long. The only thing I can think of there is that they HAD to have put the bracket on OUT of the engine bay. I tried everything else, including scissor jacking the block away from the frame.

One other trick - if you are not replacing the timing belt - make your own ink marks on the belt, cam gears, and crank pulley. Then all you have to do is match the pulley/belt marks that you made to put it back in.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Gude cams : test pipe : CAI : Dual air horns : Kenwood KDC 5000 : AutoCommand remote start
incomming - lower strut bars : AFX UDP

I KNOW you can remove the side motor mount bolts without drilling a hole in the wheel well, but I think it is worthwhile to drill holes IF you think you will ever need to take the mount off again. For example, it took me 4 tries before I got the timing belt tensioned properly and the cam marks lined up correctly. So, I had to take the mount off 4 times and since I had the holes for the bolts in the wheel well I could pull the whole assembly off (including timing belt) in less than 30 minutes.

Also, I would go ahead and replace the oil seals while you got the cam off (I think they are only a couple bucks a piece).




Eric Madden

thanks alot guys

I like being reminded why I'm part of this board :thumbsup It's all the good help

Damn didn't know I would have to pull the udp off to install cam gears or I would have done them with the udp install. Atleast the afx will come off with a regular puller I won't have to get the 3 prong thing again. I'm still learning:D

98 RS/Evo exhaust/gutted cat/p&p int. mani/bypassed egr/57mm TB/custom CAI/ngk plugs/AFX udp/fu,ru Stb/Magnacore 8.5 wires

YES REPLACE THE CAMS SEALS!!!!!

Mine are leaking REALLY bad now because I didn't change them when I threw in the regrinds. I got some for like $3 each at pepboys.



________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

GET RID of the crappy bolts that come with the aem cam gears and get some REAL bolts (like grade 8 or better) to set the cam gears. those bolts don't hold up to well, and if you have the stress of higher lift cams and stiffer valve springs it makes it even worse. EVERYONE SHOULD REPLACE THOSE BOLTS!!!! I just busted all 3 off of my car the other day on my intake cam just driving down the street!!!!!!!! getting pulled home by a truck with some rope is NO FUN!!!!!

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on............