Looks like i might rebuild my engine during the summer cuz the compression is low and I gotta change the timing belt anyway, so might as well hit two birds with one stone.

I wanna run oh 250HP maybe 280 destructively meaning I want to drive it like I'm mad at it and it'll be happy letting me do so, that's my goal to hit. People tell me all I need is to get new pistons and rings to run that much power then shot peen my rods. How strong are our rods anyway? Up to what HP have they been rated up to or withstood b4 erm... throwing em. By shot peening them how much more HP can they handle. ALso I've heard of cryotreatment, is it possible to shot peen and cryo treat the rods? Where can I get my rods cryo treated or shot peened.

Oh yeah I have a 95 also does ne1 remember the link to the place that sell the aftermarket bearing for my year engine? I saw it a while back but can't find it anymore I think it might be in teh archives now :(

So the things I should buy are pistons, rings (not total seal), engine bearings, timing belt, water pump, oil pump, belt tensioner, idler pulley, and err did I leave anything out?

Oh yeah one more thing how bout that overbore thing? I"m assumin I will have to overbore the cylinder walls so does that mean I have to get overbored pistons as well? What kind?

k here we go...for the rods:

you are saying u wanna buy new pistons and rings and all the goodies...just buy new rods. i mean yes, you can get them cryoed and shot peened but when u are done with that you already dropped a nice chucnk of change on that and still have your same 7 year old rods. just spend the money on the new rods and never worry about them breaking again, plus you won;t have to get them pressed to your stockers.

did u leave anything out?...tensioner pulley if u are going to replace it all. however my idler and tesioner pulley made it to 120xxx no probs and they are 50 each so see how they look and go from there, but since u are there u know;) (damn i use that phrase too much haha)

as for the boring, yes you will have to get oversized pistons. they are the same price as stock bore though, you'll just have to have your motor bored, typically .020 over is sufficient. runs about 70 bucks. you'll also need a new head gasket and head studs, thats a given. you'll have to get new head studs everytime the head comes off unless you get arp studs which i can reuse.

there ya go..good luck.

mark

I would suggest going with Eagle rods, they will handle the power you are asking for without a problem. For $350 I think it's a wise investment.

>Oh yeah I have a 95 also does ne1 remember the link to the
>place that sell the aftermarket bearing for my year engine?
>I saw it a while back but can't find it anymore I think it
>might be in teh archives now :(

Here's info from EclipseGSPA on ASOG, the part numbers are from Top Line. (I didn't feel like searchign ours and knew I saw it there too).
If you stack all the bearings on top of each other FACING You and all the tabs are on the same side (LEFT) then you need TOP LINE PART # MB C26E

If you need the bearings to Alternate sides Left - Right for the bearings when in a complete circle on the same side.. you need part # MB C26
(Thanks Ray, you did the legwork calling all these guys)

>So the things I should buy are pistons, rings (not total
>seal), engine bearings, timing belt, water pump, oil pump,
>belt tensioner, idler pulley, and err did I leave anything
>out?

Just get yourself the full gasket set and new head bolts. Mopar head bolts are only like $35 and Hahn torques then spec +7ft-lbs, and hasn't had a problem on the RS.

Yeah .020" over should be fine to round out the cylanders and put a nice cross hatching back on the cylander walls. You'll need oversized pistons, JE makes them, Ross and Wisco should as well. I would say Hastings or JE Rings.

While it's aparrt I would suggest an upgrade to PT Cruiser lifters and Rockers, it will be apart and when spending that much money a couple hundred more...

Una salus victus.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

if your cylinder walls are still in good shape.. you DO NOT have to overbore them.. you can just get them lightly honed and run the same size pistons.. or a .010 over bore would be more then enough to fix any cylinder wall problems..
the only problem with going .020 is that you can't do it very many times (if you are planning on having the motor for a while.)

Yeah you can have the block miced out if you like to see how much is really needed.

Una salus victus.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

so it depends on how worn out the cylinder walls are if I need to overbore or not right. Grr I wish I could just measure it on the car right now but that ain't hapenning.

hmm it sez something about the bearing being standard or undersized on howell's site what's that mean?

What I was planning to do is drop the pan and take the head off and just do the rebuild from there. Is that a good plan? I won't be able to take the whole thing apart but it's just the rings I really need to replace and the pistons if I beat those suckas up as well.

So ne1 know how much our rods can handle stock? My uncle can shot peen it for free I think.

Where can I get these ARP head bolts? Actually where's a good place to order all this stuff? As you can see I'm quite clueless when it comes to engine work I'm the bolt on type of guy haha. I guess you could call this bolt on also just a whole lotta bolts haha.

where is Dino when you need him.. hehe.

but I don't think it'll be a good idea to try and do a rebuild while the motor is still in the car. that will probably cause serious headaches.. if it's even possible.

yeah i wouldn't attempt to try to rebuild with the engine on, i saw my mechanic installing it and i think it was hard looking at him do it with the even with the engine out. it's better when you install the piston and rods from the top than from the bottom 'cause the rod has to land on the crank that way. it's risky.

With the exception of machine work, which I can't do, I'll do the rest myself, rebuild included.

Undersized bearing are if the crank need to be machined you can only go .010" undersized on these. This is mainly if there is crank damage or grooves that needs to be machined out.

I don't think I would want to push the stock rods much over 250 hp...maybe 300... What does a stage two run? stage four? The breaking point is probablyu somewhere in there.

Una salus victus.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

well I don't think I have to take the crank out right? It'll be fine if I leave it in there and just unbolt the rods from the bottom and push them up and out correct? then I guess hone it pop the pistons on the rods and add rings and pop it back in? That's the general idea I"m getting here. I've heard of people doing it but if everyone tells me not too due to experience I'll take it to a shop then haha or get some people to lift it up with a pole and chain bwahahah.

Coo so I guess I wouldn't need undersized bearings.

Damn I don't know if I can pull this off on my own :(

As long as you've been here, i figured you'd know these things.

try searching on http://66.140.8.137/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi

it's a test box, but all the archives are there...

hehheheh!!! yeah SEARCH!!!!! you veteran!

I'd recommend the Howell bottom end kit. That's a really good deal for the main parts you'll need. The Eagle rods have been tested to handle 700HP; I think that's sufficient. Also, get a complete gasket/seal set; I think it was about $180 from the dealer. It comes with a MLS headgasket. Since you have a '95, and will rebuild anyway, I'd really recommend having the cylinders bored to .020". You could probably have it done for under $100. With an older car/engine, even if the cylinder walls "look" good, it sometimes isn't always in the best shape. It could be slightly warped.

You can call JE piston company and have them make a set of Forged piston for the same price as all vendors
I bought the Turbo pistons 8:5
But If I had to do it all over again I would have had the make me forged ones @ our stock compression.
They can have them made for you in stock bore or what ever takes two weeks...

why stock compression? Hehe boost is more efficient than NA compression remember hehe. ANyway yeah dino I did search the archives from the very beginning, you'd be surprised how many 100k questions there are. I'm at like page 136 as of last week and I got a whole lotta posts on maintenance in my bookmarks O_o. So you guys think I should take the engine out huh? Might as well get a new clutch while I'm at it. I guess the 420A isn't as tough as I thought it was :(

What months are suppose to have the non-modular clutch? Mine is like an april or may 95.

The write up in the mopar performance catalog says for the neon:
all 95, and 1996 and up Toluca built (first vin character vin is 3 and 11th is "T") Neons with the traditional flywheel/clutch assemblies require the (m)odular clutch installation package.
Don't know if it'll help with the talon/eclipses.

The stock pistons forged powdered steel. They weigh the powder, pour it into the mold, heat it, forge it, then just before cooling down, take to a special machine that then breaks the caps off. This allows for a more perfect fit from rod to cap. Since they are broken, the top and bottom are a matched set and are not interchangeable with other rods. Also the whole method is supposed to help with balancing of the rods and keep down on engine vibration.

There are two types of stock pistons used from the factory. I don't know the exact measurement but I know the number is 5. There's 5 under nominal (indicating a "Light" rod) and a 5 over nominal (Indicating a "Heavy" rod). The replacement rods are considered nominal. That way it's not too far out balance in considered to the other three rods. They are serviceable individually.
I'd have the cylinders checked prior to doing any boring.

Doug

You wont know exactly what size bearings you will need until the engine is apart. I HIGHLY recommend taking the engine out to do the rebuild. its actually easier that way. you need to take the crank out and make sure its in excellent condition, or it might need some machining too. there is a lot more to it than just pulling out the pistons and slammin new ones in there. you want everything to spec out, and that will be a LOT easier with the engine out of the car.

From what I have learned you need to have everything balanced. The best way to go about all of this is to take it to a machine shop and let them do everything. Its too big of an investment to mess around with your self unless you know how to do everything.

i have always gotten the implication that you need to have the cylinders bored out .02" for the JE pistons sold with the howell kit to fit. is this this not true? for instance, say you don't "blow" your engine, but just decide to rebuild it while it is still in good shape, would the JE pistons fit in the stock cylinders with no overbore?

I believe the JE's are .020 standard, and that you can request for stock bores if you'd like.