Anyone know whats up w/ the new Mobil 1 Super Syn oil? it replaced the old tri-synthetic stuff....still says full-synthetic, and the tri stuff is off the shelves now.

this stuff just as good? better? worse? same stuff?

I'm not sure... but last night I saw what you are talking about. The 10W-40 is listed as "for higher mileage engines" The 15W-40 is "for performance driving". I had no idea what this was... so I dug around the back for some good old 10W40 tri-synth. I guess next time I'm going to have to try the new stuff

adam

Really? Have not seen that yet..I run 15W50 Mobil 1 in my mustang...

it's probably the same stuff, just new name.. but what the heck is with everyone running thick ass oil around here? I run 5w30 (recommended) castrol synthetic in my motor..
from one of the zx2 stores you can buy a highly recommended concoction of 0w30 and 5w30 synthetic and filter.

i run the 15w50

i dont live in cold area, no need for a thin oil. besides, heat is what breaks down oil, thicker oil takes longer to break-down, so i went from 10w30 to 15w50 when i went turbo (xtra heat).

thicker oil can cause excess heat.. and therfore actually break down quicker. and also lower the performance of your engine cause the oil is so much thicker.

You want the info? Here you go :-) Good ol' turbo magazine. Its gotta be a big file to read the text so sorry bout that.

Hey man, thanks a bunch. That just answered alot of my questions. I see they recommend 15-35w oil for forced. I always thought thinner was better.



97' Eclipse RS (kinda)

Present mods:
HRC stage III turbo kit (12 psi street, 25 psi track) / HKS 2 1/2" cat back exhaust w/burnt cat / 16" wheels w/Yokohomo tires (215/40) / 420A engine w/ tooled crank, billet crower rods, and 8.5:1 JE pistons / Head ported and polished, 3 angled valve job
Power-stop brakes w/axis pads / Ebachi Pro lowering kit (1.8") / MSD DIS-2 ignition system w/turbo retard

Near Future:
Stand-alone fuel system / 550cc injectors, and fuel rail / TEC III fuel/ecu system / 17” Hart racing wheels / KYB AGX struts, w/ upgraded anti sway bars / Rear brake conversion (front to rear, Brembo in front)

Jay-
wakbrd99@aol.com

Woops.. i mean 15-50
.. Hey by the way, anyone know how to buy a large amount for a good price? Maybe get a group buy?



97' Eclipse RS (kinda)

Present mods:
HRC stage III turbo kit (12 psi street, 25 psi track) / HKS 2 1/2" cat back exhaust w/burnt cat / 16" wheels w/Yokohomo tires (215/40) / 420A engine w/ tooled crank, billet crower rods, and 8.5:1 JE pistons / Head ported and polished, 3 angled valve job
Power-stop brakes w/axis pads / Ebachi Pro lowering kit (1.8") / MSD DIS-2 ignition system w/turbo retard

Near Future:
Stand-alone fuel system / 550cc injectors, and fuel rail / TEC III fuel/ecu system / 17” Hart racing wheels / KYB AGX struts, w/ upgraded anti sway bars / Rear brake conversion (front to rear, Brembo in front)

Jay-
wakbrd99@aol.com

"Mobil 1 - 15w50 - Performance Driving Formula
-Excellent for forced induction engines, muscle cars, and amatuer racers
-Highest viscosity of Mobil 1 available
-Race proven"

Looks like mobil's own ad backs-up what i already said ;)

thanks for the pic super20g...

im wondering how this new stuff compares to the old stuff, and why they changed

Alright i have a question, and maybe its a dumb one, but i have a talon esi with cold air and exhaust, would the 15w-50 be better or what, i think i use 5w-30 now, Please Help.

I would think that 10-30 should be just fine. Where do you live?

Another thing, have your engine always had sythetic? Most engines leak alot of oil if they switch from regular to sythetic.



97' Eclipse RS (kinda)

Present mods:
HRC stage III turbo kit (12 psi street, 25 psi track) / HKS 2 1/2" cat back exhaust w/burnt cat / 16" wheels w/Yokohomo tires (215/40) / 420A engine w/ tooled crank, billet crower rods, and 8.5:1 JE pistons / Head ported and polished, 3 angled valve job
Power-stop brakes w/axis pads / Ebachi Pro lowering kit (1.8") / MSD DIS-2 ignition system w/turbo retard

Near Future:
Stand-alone fuel system / 550cc injectors, and fuel rail / TEC III fuel/ecu system / 17” Hart racing wheels / KYB AGX struts, w/ upgraded anti sway bars / Rear brake conversion (front to rear, Brembo in front)

Jay-
wakbrd99@aol.com

so here is my question i have a high milage turbo charged car. i'm in the 90,000. so would i use the green or the red i'm using the 10w-30 now with no problems so should i switch or go by the old rule if it ain't broke don't fix it

you said it yourself.. if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I live iowa, but i have always put synthetic in my car, and when i changed the oil the first time i didnt leak any oil, but thanx for the help

well i just bought some Mobil 1 15w50 the red cap hehe.. when i get time im going to chnge my oil and see if it runs any better or what so...

Michael 99gs
Boost It!
Mods:
no time to put in yet:315cc injectors.
Hrc Stage 2
S-FMU
Crane HI-6DI2
Greddy Type S Bov
VC-2
Road Race Catch Can
Greddy Profec B & Switch
Apexi WS Catback
Super Afc
Autometer Boost,
Egt,Tranny Temp Gauge & Cooler
Air/Fuel Light & Digital
Tokico Adjust Struts
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Front & Rear Upper Bar
CarCraft Interior
Sound System= Bring it On

Just my experience, but I've tried 10-30 and 15-50 Mobil1... the 10-30 worked better all around. Both non- and turboed. Seat of the pants methodology of course.

really - thick ass oil - i use 5w30 in my civic!