Ok, So I laughed when I saw everyone on this board calling the mitsu dealer Satan. well, im not laughing now. Heres a little background first. I bought my eclipse in August. From a friend of my wifes, she couldnt afford it. She bought if from a guy that had it as a daily driver for awhile, then made it a weekend driver. he sold it to her with 53,000 miles on it. She got it, and in 4 months got it up to 76,000. I bought it in August, then got deployed to the desert till march(damn terrorists). This girl could barely afford an oil change. (when I bought the car, I went from the bank to the Quick Lube. it was 500 miles past due) So I know she couldnt afford the 60k service. Well I called the mitsu dealer(I now have 80k on the car. THE TOLD ME $895.00 FOR THE 60K SERVICE!!! Do I need all of what they are gonna give me? Or can I do it cheaper myself? What all will I need and how much will it cost(I can use the auto hobby shop and base and use the lift.) Thanks!

They will butt rape you on labor charges...plain and simple. all you really NEED is a new timing belt, water pump, and timing tensioner. from the dealer thats roughly 150-200 bucks in parts. id change the sparkplugs too. if you dont wanna attempt it yourself(its not too hard, just time consuming) find a reputable mechanic outside of the dealer to do it. any mechanic worth his salt can do this very easily. my friend had his done locally by a shop and they only charged 100 bucks labor. never EVER take the car to the dealer for work if its outta warranty, thats how they make their money.

I purchased everything (timing belt, water pump, tensioner, tensioner pulley with bracket, idler pulley, and cam shaft oil seals) for my 60K service for right around 350.00 from Tallahaasee Mitsubishi.



Eric Madden

woah that was waaaay too much info in the story before we finally led up to "Is $850 too much for a 60k service" thread haha. doh. I just lost 5 minutes of my life.


hehe :P

I wouldn't pay more than $500 bra, unless ur gittin' a UDP n other shiz.

That's exactly right, I was told way back last year before I found out about 2gnt by satan that I needed a rebuild and I could look to spend about 2500 samolians, did a little research lucked up on this site and talked to corbin and the other guys, learned to do comp tests and started fixin shit myself and found out I only needed a valve job which I did with a mechanic friend that only works on beamers and mercedes we did the 60k service valves and heads with the cost of the machine shop for under 600 parts included- and people want to know why they call them satan, well I'll tell you those guys are in business to make money and that's all there is to it and when you deal with them without getting advice or a second opinion"YOUR GONNA GET BURNED"


96 Black GS
Fog Light Mod-Custom Built Foxx 2K2 Short Air Intake-18" Konig Verdicts wraped in 225/45 Toyo Proxes

idk i dont think i would do the timing belt n shit like that but i would do spark plugs, wires, pvc valve, fuel filter, oil change n shit

It all depends on how u drive. Are you a red liner?
If the car has been driven reasonably hard.. and/or will be driven hard you should change the timing belt no less than 75,000 miles.
I've never heard of one busting before then, just keep in mind the risks you take if u decide not to change it. U can/ and prob will
mess up your entire engine (spec. your valves) and that 850 $ preventative maint. turns into 2000 $

The price sounds about right for Satan, but u should also check out a Dodge dealer. They tend to be a bit less, and they know our
engines a whole lot better.



97' Eclipse RS (kinda)

Present mods:
HRC stage III turbo kit (12 psi street, 25 psi track) / HKS 2 1/2" cat back exhaust w/burnt cat / 16" wheels w/Yokohomo tires (215/40) / 420A engine w/ tooled crank, billet crower rods, and 8.5:1 JE pistons / Head ported and polished, 3 angled valve job
Power-stop brakes w/axis pads / Ebachi Pro lowering kit (1.8") / MSD DIS-2 ignition system w/turbo retard

Near Future:
Stand-alone fuel system / 550cc injectors, and fuel rail / TEC III fuel/ecu system / 17” Hart racing wheels / KYB AGX struts, w/ upgraded anti sway bars / Rear brake conversion (front to rear, Brembo in front)

Jay-
wakbrd99@aol.com

can anybody tell me any signs of needing the timing belt changed, i only have 65k on my engine, but i was just wondering for the future.

your belt will start to squeak and feel looser.. you can also do a visual and touch test to see if it's falling apart and fraying on the edges.

My 1 gen talon showed none of those signs, and just snapped one day. It really isn't the type of maintance you want to procrastinate on.



97' Eclipse RS (kinda)

Present mods:
HRC stage III turbo kit (12 psi street, 25 psi track) / HKS 2 1/2" cat back exhaust w/burnt cat / 16" wheels w/Yokohomo tires (215/40) / 420A engine w/ tooled crank, billet crower rods, and 8.5:1 JE pistons / Head ported and polished, 3 angled valve job
Power-stop brakes w/axis pads / Ebachi Pro lowering kit (1.8") / MSD DIS-2 ignition system w/turbo retard

Near Future:
Stand-alone fuel system / 550cc injectors, and fuel rail / TEC III fuel/ecu system / 17” Hart racing wheels / KYB AGX struts, w/ upgraded anti sway bars / Rear brake conversion (front to rear, Brembo in front)

Jay-
wakbrd99@aol.com

>can anybody tell me any signs of needing the timing belt
>changed, i only have 65k on my engine, but i was just
>wondering for the future.
>

You change it at 60K regardless! You break it and you will not be happy. It is a small price to pay for prevention!

**********************************

"Don't worry, I'm fluent in weirdo."
Hurricane_GS
eclipse@gcni.net
AKA: Glenn H. Shelton III
Saint Cloud, FL
1997 Eclipse GS Non-Turbo
http://eclipse.greenliquid.com
---------------------
Front Upper Strut Bar
Rear Upper Strut Bar
Custom Lower Front Tie Bar
Custom Lower Rear Tie Bar
AEM Cold Air Intake
Pace Setter Muffler
Custom Short Shifter (Only $40 - Email me for info! eclipse@gcni.net)
Smoke Tinted Clear Tail Lights
Custom Illuminated Center Tail
Tokico Blues
Eibach Pro Kit
Neuspeed Front Strut Bar

On the way:
Indiglo Needles

yeah i would play it safe and change it at the 60k intervals. Although i did mine at about 56k. the belt had never been done before, and the belt was in excellent condition. It could have gone many more thousands of miles IMO. But things like the T-belt pullys and and waterpump can go before the belt even would, so play it safe. If you are in doubt of doing it yourself, check out my sig link for the how to on the T-belt. Read it over, and decide for yourself if it is a task you want to take on. Its not that hard really, just time consuminng, and the proper tools is a must..

yea dont have it snap on you like mine did, i have a new head with new valves on the way to my house...


hey usaf where are you stationed and whats your job.. im evan also as you can see..
engineering assistant i work in CE and im at eglin