Where do you put the jack to lift the engine? Or do I NEED a cherry picker?

I didn't need either to do my inserts...Did the front one first, no problem, then did the rear one, and was a little tough to line up the holes, but it worked...I'd say if you need to lift the motor, just get a piece of wood to put under the oil pan, and then use a floor jack to put pressure on the motor under the piece of wood.

Yeah, you won't need to lift the engine. Here's vegasdsmr's write-up for the front one & my write-up for the rear one:

Front Motor Mount Install (courtesy of Sean (vegasdsmr)
http://seangordon1.tripod.com/mminstall.html
Rear Motor Mount Install (courtesy of me)
http://www.ourformerselves.com/richard/rearmotormount.htm

Thanks, Richard (97 ESi)
http://www.ourformerselves.com/richard/main.htm


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Yep, what they said is right. You do not need to jack up the engine at all, cuz there will be atleast three other mounts holding the engine up at a time. I also have another write up if ya need it

Thanks guys. Is there a way to do the back one without taking all that other stuff out? Could I do it from the bottom too? Also, how does that block of wood not hurt the oil pan?

and what are the torque specs on those nuts and bolts?

I know I've got to be annoying but..... what size block of wood would I use? 2x4?

LOL... any size block of wood will do. You are just preventing the "teeth" on the jack from poking a hole in your oilpan. 2x4, 4x4, whatever you have lying around.

time to plug my write-up, hehe. i didnt use any jacks or blocks of wood, but if you want to be overly safe then go ahead.

ok i'm bored so here is a write up, tuffrs i bet you can figure this
out but
if others are reading or you need a little extra help, here you go. the
front one is easy, all you need is a socket wrench, and a cresent or
something like that to keep stuff from turning on nut and bolt combos.
i
think the size is somewhere around 10mm, throughout the whole thing the
sizes go from 10-14, so just get out those and your set. look down into
the
engine bay, the front mount is just to the right of center, inbetween
the
headers and the radiator. you can get to it alot better from under the
car,
but i never used jackstands, so you prob wont need them. but if you
have
them it would prob help. first there is a nut and bolt "pin" that goes
through the front motor mount. take that out. that little f--king thing
is
on tight, the only way i got it off was by attaching a socket wrench to
the
right side of it, laying down in front of the car and kicking it off.
you
might have an easier time than i. once its loose take it out the rest
of the
way. now if you look the motor mount is bolted to a main chassis peice
that
runs up under the motor. the bolts come up from then underside of that
chassis peice. you can get to those bolts through two small holes on
the
bottom. you will need an extention, or maybe just a long socket. loosen
those the the whole mount will slide out (make note which way is front
and
back). you may need to wiggle it some but its free. the kit, energy
suspension, comes with a total of 6 peices. 2 washers and 4 molded
plastics
peices. for the front mount you need both washers and the inserts that
are
smaller (i.e. less polyeurethane), push the inserts into the spaces in
the
motor mount and put the washers on either side. put it back in place.
it
will be snugg, but as long as it fit in there without alot of play your
good. put all the bolts and stuff back in. it doesnt matter which you
do
first. i think i put the 2 that hold it to the chassis in first then
the
"set pin". i'm not sure about torque specs but seeing as how i had to
kick
it off i dont thing you are going to hurt anything. i tightend mine up
until
i almost crapped my pants. (you may want to drive it around just in
case,
because if its too rough for you now it will only get worse with the
back
one installed)(or maybe you dont have any patients like me)

now the back one. harder all around, but nothing you cant handle. if
you
have it take out the strutbar. intake, battery, plastic tray and metal
tray
(4 bolts), also take out the washer fluid resovior (haha i cant spell
that),
and i unbolted my brake fluid bucket thing but you prob wont have to do
that. no you can see it. stick your head in there with a flashlight
if
need be and look around. the back mount is pretty much under the
throttle
body. this mount is also connected to a chassis member. then there is
the
same type center pin that holds it to a bracket that bolts to either
the
trans or the motor, i dont remeber which. on this mount we arent going
to take out the mount itself but the bracket that it attached to the motor (i'm just going to call it that, if i'm wrong it doesnt matter any way). the
only thing you have to undo are 4 bolts. the one set pin, and if you look on the bracket there are 3 bolts in it. first undo the pin, if you have a
breaker bar you may want to try that, i didnt have one so it took a little while so stop the bleeding:( once you have that off you need to ge the other 3 bolts out. these are tight as a mofo. so find someone big and tell him to do it. if your big then you can skip that step. i'm not big at all but i managed to get one of them, my dad got the others. you will need an extender to get to these too, but not to long or you will be up into the t/b and intake man. get those out. take the bracket out then slip in the 2 remaining inserts, one on either side. make sure they are in there. then put the bracket back on (this will also be a snugg fit). put the pin in place, but i wouldnt tighten it just yet. make sure the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the motor line up, get them started, then tighten everything back up. make sure its tight again because once you put all the other stuff back in on top of it you wont want to get in there again. put you car back together. and your done. *whew* no you can go wipe yourself

-Josh




weapon-r intake
greddy headers
apex-i n1 catback
afx udp
energy suspension
motor mounts
cf altezza tail lights
bored t/b
magnecore wires
hotter plugs

Thanks guys.