Okay, first and formost it helps to have the car correctly timed. I was off by 1 tooth on I & E!!! Got taht re-dun (correctly this time), and had to -get ready for this- shim each lifter on the exhaust side .060"!!!! NONE ON THE INTAKE, and i still have ticking. Idle is back to normal, no surging and it feels like a bit more power too. It just ticks, im guessing because even with the .060" shims some lifters still have roughly .005"-.008" gap (lash?) between cam bottom and roller.
so as of now, all is good (excpet ticking) and i really appreciate all the help and info. Thanks Fast420a, michael97rs, and others. Id like to thank the acadamy, and most of all God,...... sorry, got carried away.
Thanks guys

Whats the point of new billets if you still have to shim them to stop ticking (which you say it didn't stop).

they aren't new billets, they're stocks with a mild re-grind.

No problem, that's what we're here for. Glad it's all solved. Didn't you have intake side shimmed .030" why unshim it?

Una salus victus.
It's not about being invincible, it's about being ready; for anything.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Intake Manifold 1/2, P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

yea, i had the intake side shimed but there were only 3 lifters that had ANY gap between the roller and cam, and the most was .004", the rest of them had no clearnace of any kind unless they were .001" or less. I still have clearnce on the exhaust side even with .060" shims, as much as .010" or more. should i try to shim them up a bit more do ya think?