Where did U guys get the rubber grommets 2 fill the holes (2 get the 4" motor mount screws out)? I've checked Home Depot so far, but they've only got metal 1's (They'd rattle)

P.S.
If there's an even better way 2 get these 2 screws out, I'm open 2 suggestions ;)

Thanx 4 the help,
- J

haha read my how to huh? Try your local auto parts stores, i'm sure one will have some. You CAN get the motor mount plate off without drilling the holes, but i could only do this by breaking off the front half of the timing belt cover to get room to move the plate around to get all the bolts out. Its a real bitch to do, and will take some time. I didn't remove the front motor mount by the tranny either, but some have said that helps too by lowering and raising the motor into different positions to get it out. If you do drill, be VERY careful where you drill. There are some steel lines right on the frame there in front of the motor mount plate. Watch out for those..

thats a danm good idea drilling holes
I'am gonna doit

uhm, what holes are we talking about?

>uhm, what holes are we talking about?

The motor mount plate has 3 long ass bolts in it holding it on the block. The problem is that there is only a few inches between the frame rail of the car, and the motor mount plate. One of the upper bolts can be taken out by raising the motor, but the lower 2 are the problem. The lower 2 bolts are directly across from the frame rail, and you can drill 2 holes starting in the wheel well and then go through the frame to be right in line with the 2 bolts. You can then use a socket wrench extension to access the bolts through the wheel well through the frame. A hole big enough for the socket and extension is all you need, i'd say 3/4". It would be much easier this way, and much faster if you need to access the timing belt or do any cam gear change or head work.

HMmmmmmmm, I didn't even think AutoZone or Advanced Auto would carry it... but ok =) Now I am planning on drilling a 1.25" hole as opposed 2 your 3/4 (I think) so I can get the socket in & out EZ'er. This will save me time from having 2 unscrew them w/ an open ended wrench in only a 2" space.

I'm installing the AFX UDP & new Water Pump @ the same time, but I saw some1 on here saying that the idle pulley & whatever the other 1 was (same kind of pulley) should also B replaced. I'm @ 70k right now, any real need?

Mr. T:
The question is referring 2 Matt's little suggestion (cheat) on how 2 get the long screws out of the side motor mount 2 B able 2 get @ the timing belt. It's the procedure w/out the pics, not the 1 like our manual.

Here's his link:
http://www.geocities.com/eclipsed4evr98/Timingbeltprocedure.html

P.S.
Great idea by the way =D

Thanx 4 the help,
- J

U beat my reply by a min, oh well ;)

- J

OHHH, NOW YOU FREAKIN BRING THIS UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Where the hell was this post 2 weeks ago when i spent 4 hours trying to get that F'n thing out????????? We need to be more on my wave lenght here, guys!

seriously tho, i thought about drilling the holes but thought about structural integraty to. i heard you dont wnat to many good sized holes in your frame close to eachother. any comments on that....
but i did get it out eventualy. I pray never have to do that again!

That write up has been around for a while, just like the lifter shimming info ;-) :P



________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


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I drilled the holes, which is good thing because I have had that motor mount bracket off more times I can count on both hands. A 3/4" hole isn't big enough to fit a Craftsman socket (15mm) through, but you can put a short socket on the bolt and run an extension through the hole and into the socket (which is what I did since the 3/4" hole was too small and I didn't have a bigger bit).



Eric Madden

Why is this so hard for you. Dont wast time drilling holes. Took me 10 min and I thought that was a long time. All you have to do is completely loosen all 3 bolts and pull them out as far as possible. Then just lift the motor mount with the 3 bolts in it. and I did not have the trany mount off. Hell I didnt even have the back or front off. The only pain is getting the bolts to go between those metal tubes.

It is not that hard. Just give it a try before you drill and then get rust.

>Why is this so hard for you. Dont wast time drilling holes.
>Took me 10 min and I thought that was a long time. All you
>have to do is completely loosen all 3 bolts and pull them
>out as far as possible. Then just lift the motor mount with
>the 3 bolts in it. and I did not have the trany mount off.
>Hell I didnt even have the back or front off. The only pain
>is getting the bolts to go between those metal tubes.
>
>It is not that hard. Just give it a try before you drill and
>then get rust.
You said "pain" bro!
I beleave the hole would provide easy access to these bolt and would speed things up in the future ;)
as far as rust spot prime & paint the holes

Any thoughts as 2 replacing the other 2 pulleys (Idle & Tensioner) @ 72k?

P.S.
I wish:
1.) I had a garage
2.) It would stop raining

- J

Thoughts? Yes, replace them.



Eric Madden

Thanx 4 the help guys, I've already drilled 1 of the 2 holes (killed both of my batteries on my cordless ) & I'll B sure 2 replace both the idle & tensioner pulleys... just wanted 2 make sure I wasn't missing anything.

To do list:
===========
Timing Belt
AFX UDP
Drive Belts
Idle & Tensioner Pulleys
Belt Dressing (No squeaks)

P.S.
Found 2 rubber grommets @ AutoZone & they fit great (1.25")

Thanx,
- J =D