Is this normal for doing this type of work? I have the new PT cam followers and lash adjusters and had my cams reground a little now i have a rough idle (feels like it almost wants to die on me) and very noticable ticking.
thanks for the help and the previous words of support with prior car issues...
tim

DID YOU SHIM THE LIFTERS TO HELP THE DIFFERENCE IN THE GEOMETERY AFTER REGRINDING CAMS?

The company should have told you what size shims to use. Don't worry, if you didn't install them you can without removing the cams. But YOU NEED TO GET THEM DONE, I ran for a week without being shimmed with my regrinds and have broken 2 lifters due to the wear and tear of no shims. I had to go to a V8 shop and find some shims designed for an Oldsmobile I4 and I started with the .030's and had to switch to the .060's to get rid of the noise.


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current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


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www.Fast420A.com

Shim the lifters????????????????????????????? Not one person has mentioned anything about shimming anything in this whole process (ordeal) of mine. what would i need and where would i get them and how would i use them... im "shim ignorant". wouldnt compensating for the space difference between the regrinds and the lifters negate having reground cams? my cams aren't a sever grind, only something like (i cant find the actual paper) 185 @ .050 and 585 something or other, so not real big grind.
thanks

No ading shims allows it to take advantage of the duration and lift since the cams have been ground away and and arent reaching the lifters so you need to shim them, you could do this to stock I think to get more lift, but not sure!

I'm pretty sure we covered shimming the lifters when you first started asking about regrinds... anyways, yes talk to the guy and ask what they need to be shimmed to. All you will do is out the shim under the lifter.

Una salus victus.
It's not about being invincible, it's about being ready; for anything.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Intake Manifold 1/2, P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

true, you may have but that was about a month ago and i was referring to the "very knowledgable" people "helping" me with this endevor. people who used to build race motors, i woulda though they would known about this...

If he tells you the amount to shim then I can tell you if the Crane shims will work for you. When I bought my regrinds used there was no paper work and I had to change the shims a FEW times to get them right.
Basically what you are doing when shimming is putting a little "washer" under the lash adjuster to raise it up and take some slack out of the geometery of the lash adjus/rocker assm. The main thing is, all the "washers" need to be EXACTLY the same thickness. Most washers found at auto parts stores were too different in the sizes. I went to 6 differnt stores and finally found the Crane shim kit at a local V8 place.



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current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


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www.Fast420A.com

Thanks fast, i appreciate the info. i will call on them today and repost later this AM.

okay Fast, cams are 185 @.50 with 396 lift, im told .30 shim should be more than enough. where do i get them and once i have them, how exactly do they go on?
thanks

Tim, here you go. Crane Cams Part Number 99179-1. It's called a Rocker Arm Bridge Shim Kit for the Olds-AMC-Pontiac I-4 motor. It comes with 16 .030 inch shims and 16 .060 inch shims. I started with the .030's and ended up having to switch to .060's. You just take out the lash adjuster (lifter) and set one shim under it. Very simple process.

If you haven't figured out how to remove the lifters and rockers with the cams still in, you will. Due to changing broken rockers and re shimming the lifters, I've got the process down to about an hour. Kiku posted a writeup on ASOG's site. Here it is.

Author: Kiku
Category: Engine
Application: 1995-I4 1996-I4 1997-I4 1998-I4 1999-I4 2000-I4 2001-I4
Date Created: Dec/4/2000
Instructions:

Tools required:
-2 long flathead screwdrivers
-Lots of patience and about a few hours of your time


1) Before starting on each valve, make sure the follower is on the base circle of the cam of the cylinder you are working on. In other words, the nose of the cam lobe should be straight up. You can just tap the starter each time to get there; do a few at a time in order in which the lobes are 'up'.

Place the first screwdriver blade against the adjacent head bolt. This will keep the tip of the screwdriver from sliding away from the cam follower. Really big screwdrivers are the secret to making this job a cinch.

2) Place the tip of the second screwdriver under the lash-ajuster end of the cam follower and push it down against the head casting as shown. This will compress the valve spring and the follower will start to lift up and slide away from the lash ajuster.

3) Use the screwdriver on the right to control the cam follower side movement and slowly release the left screwdriver until the follower is free from any load.

4) Now you can simply pull out the lash ajuster and drop in a new one.

5) Time to slip in the new cam follower. Simply place the follower on the end valve tip with the opposite end positioned next to the lash ajuster. Again place the tip of a screwdriver against the head bolt and move the cam follower toward the lash ajuster.

6) use the second screwdriver to lift the cam follower which compresses the valve spring. Use the first screwdriver to move the follower to the left over the lash adjuster. Slowly release the second screwdriver to lower the follower onto the lash ajuster. Done! Just 15 more and you can head out on the highway...


This howto is an excerpt from Mopar Now! magazine. All rights reserved by Mopar Now!
ASOG is not responsible for any damage caused by this howto. Proceed with caution.



Here's the pics.










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current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


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www.Fast420A.com

I know this was covered about 5 months ago when I had to go through the same thing. You will not want to go too thick on the shims because you will cause a misfire code. So thicker is not always better. You just want to shim them to stock proportions.

The best way to do this is to get a measurement of the base circle of your cams and compare them to stockers. The difference should be multiplied by 1.5 (Ratio of your rockers) and that is the thickness of the shim you want to use. .030 sounds quite thick to me. I think I used something more like .017s

I don't know if it's the case for all 2GNTs, but my #1 cylinder (the one all the way to the left), DID NOT NEED SHIMS. It could be just my cylinder head, but there was a difference for the exhaust lifters of that cylinder.

I was hoping to get more power than I did, but I did lower my 1/4 times by about 0.15 seconds (Calculated 12whp).

Now I just can't wait to get the cams from Crane and the backordered cam gears from Fidanza.....then we're playing with fire. I've already got all of the rest of the stuff. Lifters, rockers, valve springs....yadda, yadda, yadda.

I can smell all motor 14's in the NEAR future! }> }> }>

________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

thank you very much much guys! i REALLY appreciate the info and help. Thanx.... thanks for the write-up, Fast.
also does the degree of regrind have any say on what thickness of shim should be used (is this what SEA97GS was saying?)

Yes, it depends on how much material was removed from the lobes. The cams I have are a drag regrind so I needed .060 shims to quiet everything down.



________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Yeah definately don't shim too much, or the valves won't close and you'll not be happy. Let us know the final results once you get it together.

Una salus victus.
It's not about being invincible, it's about being ready; for anything.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Intake Manifold 1/2, P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

14s are coming soon. I just need to try and be patient. But I HATE WAITING!!!! ARRRRGGGHHHHH....Sorry..had to let that out.

My times will be accompanied by a dyno sheet to go along with it as well. My mechanic refuses to tune the car by the seat of the pants. Which is fine by me, but it's gonna be spensive. :(