ok, so say i had every part needed to do a tranny swap to a manual, how much would just the labor cost me, and how long would it take? and what parts do i need, the tranny itself, clutch...what else? i just wanted to get every piece i need a little at the time and then take it somewhere and say 'switch it'! thanks.

It'll be a lot cheaper to do it yourself. You'll need everything from the tranny and all of it's components to the shifter and the clutch pedal... basically everything that has to do with the tranny. You can use the same ECU and your redline will be moved up so you may want to get some indiglos with the correct faces on them while your at it.

A few of the guys here have done it, so maybe they can further elaborate.

>ok, so say i had every part needed to do a tranny swap to a
>manual, how much would just the labor cost me, and how long
>would it take? and what parts do i need, the tranny itself,
>clutch...what else? i just wanted to get every piece i need
>a little at the time and then take it somewhere and say
>'switch it'! thanks.

I think you should just sell your car and get one with a stick from the start. I think its too much damn trouble to be fooling around with all of that.

Chris

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
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My 2000 Z28 and shuwa29's '98 Eclipse:

My 2000 Z28 and Bobby's '98 GS-T:

I think you should just sell your car and get one with a stick from the start. I think its too much damn trouble to be fooling around with all of that.

Chris

thats not really a choice. there are barely any around where i live and they are almost always auto or in crappy shape. i found the near perfect one, good shape, low miles, black ^_^, etc... except it was auto. i needed a car then, i didnt have time to keep looking, so i gave up and got it. now i want it manual, and since plenty of people have done it, i dont see how its going to be that much trouble.

and dougie2, its not really something i think i could do myself. i realize it would be cheaper, i just dont think i could manage a transmission swap.

so what else do i need besides transmission (what type do i need?) and what 'components', shifter, and clutch?

thanks.

Have you considered building up your AT? It will cost you nearly the same amount of money. I really only recommend it for forced induction applications, though. You could boost at the line and hold boost pressure through shifts which will compensate for loss of power in the AT drivetrain. If your staying NA, go for the AT-MT swap definetely! I know guys here have done it... so someone post a list for this dude! :7

I say to keep it AT and save your $$$. The chrysler AT is pretty stout from the factory. My Bf (eclipsekaiser) has been beating on his since day one when he bought the car back in 97. Still holding on strong even after turboing.

my advice is to turbo the AT if you feel it is that slow. you'll feel differently about it afterward.

just my 2 cent.

Cyndi

>I say to keep it AT and save your $$$. The chrysler AT is
>pretty stout from the factory. My Bf (eclipsekaiser) has
>been beating on his since day one when he bought the car
>back in 97. Still holding on strong even after turboing.
>
>my advice is to turbo the AT if you feel it is that slow.
>you'll feel differently about it afterward.
>
>just my 2 cent.
>
>Cyndi

thats just it, im not planning on going turbo, if i was i would build up the AT.

>thats not really a choice. there are barely any around where
>i live and they are almost always auto or in crappy shape. i
>found the near perfect one, good shape, low miles, black
>^_^, etc... except it was auto. i needed a car then, i didnt
>have time to keep looking, so i gave up and got it. now i
>want it manual, and since plenty of people have done it, i
>dont see how its going to be that much trouble.


Hehe it's funny you should mention that. I also noticed most eclipse nt's are autos. Right now I am looking for a 92-95 civic ex as a daily driver, and almost all of them are stick. I want to get an auto for that car since it's so slow anyways.

we only know of a handful who have done it, and if you're paying for it it will prolly cost more than turbo, perhaps you should talk to a mechanic about price for parts and labor, maybe if you bring him/her all the parts they'll say your missing something or something is broken.

Who has done this before?

I'm going to go join Michael and buld mine NA. Manual trans here I come :)

Let me get my parts list straight-

Neon trans,stage one clutch, lightend flywheel, Short shifter, shifter boot, Shift linkages, clutch pedal assem., brake pedal assem., NEW ECU(AFX HELLO?, ANOTHER CUSTOMER AT YOUR DOOR! WERE WAITING!)

Did I miss anything?

Well, my automatic transmission blew up. I decided to do the swap. 2 months of working on it a couple of hours each weekend, and it was done. Drove it for 2 days, and the new M/T blew up. Pulled that out, returned it, and got a replacement under warranty. Swapped that it, and she has been running beautifully ever since, now that the wiring issues have been worked out. I put in a M/T ECU (not completely necessary, but brought redline to 7200 from 6500), and wired the speed sensor into the ECU. Works like a charm.
-=B-=

BTW: Total cost was about 800 bux...

I'd try to find an Eclipse Trans, I think someone once said the bellhousing is slightly different, internals are all the same but possibly a different bellhousing. Not sure but...

You have a flexplate already, so to cut costs you don't have to switch to a lightened flywheel, you could go with a modular clutch and it will bolt right up. But your list sounds pretty complete.

Guys, what about axles? same of different?

Una salus victus.
It's not about being invincible, it's about being ready; for anything.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Intake Manifold 1/2, P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Do they ask if your car is auto or stick when you order stronger axles?

I think they are the same.

Aren't neon axles interchangable with ours? Just in case I need a pair.

Wasn't there a differance in gear ratios between neon and eclipse?

I know someone else has done this before.

Any advise for the swap?

Hello?

Well, my recommendation is find someone (a mechanic) and hire him for a side job. Regardless, don't let a mechanic do this at a garage. Too much custom stuff. Clutch and brake pedals, shifter, linkages, rear motor mount and bracket, clutch, transmission, clutch master and slave cylinders, clutch lines (2 hard lines, one rubber line), 3 Quarts of Mopar NV-T350 tranny fluid, and a lot of tools are all that you need. Good luck!
-=B-=

>Well, my recommendation is find someone (a mechanic) and hire him >for a side job. Regardless, don't let a mechanic do this at a >garage. Too much custom stuff. Clutch and brake pedals, shifter, >linkages, rear motor mount and bracket, clutch, transmission, clutch >master and slave cylinders, clutch lines (2 hard lines, one rubber >line), 3 Quarts of Mopar NV-T350 tranny fluid, and a lot of tools >are all that you need. Good luck!

Custom stuff? Wait a min. I though it should be pretty straigh forward. Just remove and replace? Shouldn't both stick and auto come with same mounting point for both?

>rear motor mount and bracket

Does the manual use a differant motor mount too?

The AT and the MT use different rear motor mounts. Since the mount bolts to the tranny and the trannies are different you'll need a new one. Trust me. :)

Axles between the AT and MT eclipses are the same. This is not true with us and the neon.

The custom stuff is that you have to drill some holes for the slave cylinder, and I think that you have to mess with the brake pedal a little too.

Well, I talked to a shop today to see how much they would charge for the install.

is $800.00 for labor a good deal?

The1Bill, that $800 is for factory clutch,flywheel etc. right?

So roughly total should be 1600+ for factory set-up?

Can I hook-up a trans cooler to the MT?

Well, I got a clutch from Pep Boys for 180 and spent about 650 on the transmission. The pedals and shifter I found for a couple of bucks at a pick and pull. The custom part is the wiring. That is the difficult issue. If you don't re-wire the speedometer, you will pop a CEL. If you don't swap ECUs, the car will run like crap and misfire (at least mine did). And if you don't do the reverse pickup switch wiring, you won't have backup lights. The wiring isn't too tough, but I don't think that a mechanic would let you off cheap for it. As for the pedals, 3 holes hafta be drilled into the firewall, and the brake pedal hasta be swapped out for a M/T brake pedal. The brake MC is the same. There is some sound deadening insulation where the clutch pedal bolts up at the top, but this is perforated and really easy to remove. I found this little fact when I was ready to start hacking at it. I just pulled on it and a tidy square came out.
-=B-=

I got all my parts for $850 except for the MT ecu which cost me an extra $55. I had the exact opposite of bill's experience with the ecu's though. Car runs fine with my AT ecu but runs really bad with the MT. It's probably due to the MT ecu has lost all it's fuel and timing maps and has to relearn them. I just haven't gotten around to giving it time to learn yet. The wiring isn't bad at all. Fairly easy and Armond has a good write up on how to wire it all up.

Whats a Symborski shift kit?

Is that just stiffer bushing for the shifter?

Bro, no offence, but if your auto your better off staying auto and building up your tranny. I have an auto and love it and all I have had before was manual. Boost away and you will toast manuals I know from experience so take it or leave it. Autos rock, were not in the old school anymore and to swap that tranny is dumb why bother shifting if you don't have to and can be quicker than our manuals? Im sure many other members will disagree with me on this but just give level 10 an e-mail and "learn" what your tranny is capable of and what advantages it will have over a manual. In my eyes it will take down a manual hand down period and those who opose this go learn about trannys some more and what is out there on the market for them. If you are aiming for under 300 HP a manual would be better but why blow all that money on a dumb ass stick that will not be fast don't be a homo keep your tranny and built it up.

Building up the AT is not an option for him... read here:

http://www.2gnt.com/dcforum/DCForumID13/4680.html#7

If I was going to boost I would keep the AT. I'm going NA which means I need better gear ratio's to keep my RPMs high and let me rev faster (no torque converter mass).

HA!!! I need to bring this thread back to life. I was just doing a search on manual swaps and came across this old old thread (when I was still a newbie:P )

I'm eating my words from this thread and so will some of the people that posted on this a long time ago.

here is a little update for you all.
Since this post I have rebuilt my motor and my transmission. I boosted my car and am currently running 5-10psi (spiked to 12 once) daily. My trans is starting to act funny nowx(

I'm swapping to manual. Dougie2 is working on a write-up to help everyone looking to do the swap. I will also take detailed pics during the swap to help Dougies's write-up. Hopefully I'll be able to have SilverNT and Michael97rs help me out with the swap so we'll have lots of dumb pix during the install as well:thumbsup

Screw auto I'm going manual baby}(

Ok, someone please clear things up for me. I've heard both sides from peole who have done the swap.

Do I need new axles? I doubt it but I don't wanna make a last min. run to the parts store for new MT axles. but then agian with passed experiance I'll end up messing up the passenger side axles on my own:P

>> Do I need new axles?

No no no. Definetely not. I'm still adding shit to the write-up right now actually... hopefully it'll be done soon.

Here's a list of the tools you'll need:
Assortment of basic hand tools
Wrenches
Sockets
Hammer
Rubber mallet
Screwdrivers
Pry bar
Car jack
Jack stands
Loctite blue
Die grinder or hole saw
Drill
Torque wrench
Wire cutters/strippers/tape
Soldering Iron

Here's a list of PARTS you'll need:
NV-T350 Manual Transmission
Rear motor mount absorber on cross member
Rear motor mount bracket on transmission
Engine Control Unit from same year of the vehicle, 5-speed model
Transmission reverse/neutral switch WIRING PLUG (optional)
Transmission vehicle speed sensor WIRING PLUG (optional)
Brake pedal assembly and hardware
Clutch pedal assembly and hardware
Clutch master cylinder and clutch fluid reservoir
Clutch slave cylinder and hydraulic lines
Shifter assembly and hardware and shift knob
Shifter cables
Modular Clutch

Originally posted by The1Bill
3 Quarts of Mopar NV-T350 tranny fluid,

Manual Trans have tranny fluid? I thought that was only autos to help them shift.

manuals still need a lubricant just like your motor. In fact some transmission use motor oil instead of transfluid.

It's just that the chrystler transmission are picky in what lube you use.