Well I am just about done with the real hard part of my little build-up. I was wondering what I do to prime my engine before I start it up for the fist time?

I was just going to unhook the fuel relays and turn it over about 5-10 turns to get the oil up in it.

Is this right or do I do something else???

now you get the joy of the engine break in period so your piston rings will seat properly, hehe... its gonna suck bad not to get into it.. hehe.. when my car is back up in a few weeks i will be same way for 500 miles on the clutch.. damnit!

i just used a gang and a half of engine assembly lube hehehee,
hey what do you think is the best amount of time until we can boost again? like how many miles? man i am getting itchy heheh must control temptation!
lates
james

1500 long agonizing miles (city). 500 miles change oil - 1000 miles change oil - 1500 miles change oil (synthetic) and boost away.

Yeah just let the starter turn the engine and oil pump without fuel and you'll have the motor primed for start up.

Una salus victus.
It's not about being invincible, it's about being ready; for anything.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold 1/2, Rear disc brake conversion kit w/, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

okay i have 150 miles since the rebuild
i think i am going to cry...
hehe
lates
james

No..

First (NEVER start a new engine without doing this!) add half a quart of oil into the oil filter. The oil moves like this: sump -> pump -> filter -> everything else. Prime the filter and you'll have oil to move out of the last spot on the path, as opposed to having to fill a half quart oil filter before you can get oil to the rest of the engine. You don't want those bearings turning at 300-400RPM while cranking with no lube.

In addition, add about a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and crank it over without ignition/fuel so cylinder walls get lubed up.

Then crank it!

And i agree with dino's note. Fill that oiil filter up!
_________________
Vinnie Lima
kiku@asog.net
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

Okay... who doesn't prep the oil filter? Every oil change I fill it with half a quart... Also on asembly I hope you filled the oil pump with oil.

Una salus victus.
It's not about being invincible, it's about being ready; for anything.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold 1/2, Rear disc brake conversion kit w/, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

yes, dont forget the pump. Everyone above seemed to forget that part