Hey all, I desperately need some tuning advice on my cam gears because I am going back to the dyno on March 30 (socal dyno day - check announcements section). But I will not be able to do any tuning because they said their events are so crowded now there just isn't any time.

Check out this post, showing my dyno runs after the ported and milled head. Notice a power drop off above 5500 rpms, back to stock levels.

http://www.2gnt.com/dcforum/DCForumID13/4029.html

Does anyone have any idea how I should adjust my cam gear settings due to the ported and milled head? I know milling retards timing, so does that mean I should advance both gears (if so, how much). Should I still have them overlap, such as advance intake 4, advance exhaust 2? Is advancing 4 degrees too much?

Since the best results on a stock head have been intake advance 2, exhaust retard 2, I want to try to get similar settings (compensating for the milled head). Any advice will be greatly appreciated, since I will only be able to do 2 or 3 consecutive pulls without adjusting the gears. I will try to do some tuning myself before the dyno, but I need a sense of direction on what to do...thanks.

I think that you probably want to advance more on the intake. I don't think the +4 is bad. Of course you'll probably want to verify this all on the dyno of course.

Yes definately advance, I would think at least 4 degrees maybe more with the milled head and give yourself good overlap.

"The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it." - Albert Einstein



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold 1/2, Rear disc brake conversion kit w/, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Hmm I just tried advance 3 exhaust, and advance 0 intake, and the idle got really bad. In fact, when I was cruising, I put it in neutral, and the engine even partially shut off (well at least the CEL went off, and came back on, which always happens when the engine dies). Now I set it to advance 3 intake, advance 2 exhaust.

Does anyone have any idea how much milling the head retards the timing (milled 0.040" for 10.6:1 compression). I want to try to figure out what equivalent setting would be 0-0 on a stock head. Then I can start from there, and try adjusting hopefully. I want to try to get a good setting since I won't be able to adjust it on the dyno, and want to see the real power I put down daily driving. So I want a setting where my idle is decent too, because to me there's no point in dynoing for max gain with a rough idle, if I'm not going to daily drive like that.

It's too hard to estimate that, you seriously should go to a dyno and pay for hourly tuning if you REALLY want the best power. Or at least go through every setting possible with the butt dyno if you don't have the time for the hourly tuning sessions.


________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

i second that.. There really isn't any other way.

Hmm I can't afford to do real tuning on the dyno, so I guess I will have to tune it myself by feel. I have a general question though. Does more overlap usually lead to a worse idle?

Also, if I do intake advance 4, exhaust retard 0, that is 4 degrees of overlap. But if I do intake advance 2, exhaust retard 2, that is still 4 degrees of overlap. Would either of the 2 previous settings be considered more aggressive, and cause worse idle?

Yes overlap will cause rougher idle. It's the same effect as a cam with a big overlap the idle is rough and there is a "lope" where the car is not creating as much vacum as before so with enough overlap, or agressive cams etc. the car will have rougher idle and possibilities of dying on occassion when notunder load.

I would say go with advance 4 intake.

"The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it." - Albert Einstein



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold 1/2, Rear disc brake conversion kit w/, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines