After I finally get the Howell Engine Kit, and install it, how long can I expect my engine to last ?

Will it essentially be like new, since I will be replacing all the internals with better than oem parts ?

Well... You will have to break it in like a new car. I never rebuilt one before but i know that It will last alot longer now. Change the oil ALOT with really good oil... dont be cheap and buy crappy oil

yes, from what I've heard, rebuilding an engine is just like putting a brand spanking new engine in, break her in right and she'll last you many thousands of miles

excellent guys.

Would any of you be willing to suggest a good oil for after the rebuild ? I wanna stick with one...I dont wanna have to end up trying different ones.

I heard Royal Purple...but I was thinking maybe something a little cheaper. (im a poor college student =)

any of the full synthetics should be fine. i think I got mine for 4 bucks a liter. and dino juice works fine, ya just NEED to change your oil often.

Hey just wondering were you got your howell engine kit?? Im looking to do a rebuild myself real soon. Kind of curious as to where to get all the parts.

>Hey just wondering were you got your howell engine kit?? Im
>looking to do a rebuild myself real soon. Kind of curious
>as to where to get all the parts.



The howell rebuild kit comes from, Howell Automotive. www.howellautomotive.com or you can go here.

http://howell.mountain.net/Talon/DSMEngineKits.html


________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

for break-in do not use synthetic oil, the superior lubrication it has will not let the fresh parts(i.e. rings on the honed cylinder walls) develop wear patterns easily. the engine has to wear -in to work top-notch. also i hope you know not to do high rpms for 300-500 miles during break-in. be sure to change the oil twice during break-in to eliminate the small metal shavings that you will make. Also, don't be alarmed by excessive blow-by during this time, it will go away if the engine was blueprinted properly. Technically, if you do a bad-ass job of clearencing(blueprinting) your engine a break-in period is not needed. feel free to use synthetic after break-in.

ya just was about to say, synthetic oil is man made... the real oil is better for newer cars so i would use that, if you arnt going to use good oil, then dont do it... save up intill you can do it right. you spend that much you dont want to mess it up for an extra 40-50 bucks on oil...

Anyone install one of these kits yet? How hard was it and how long did it take you?

you have to pull the engine, rip it apart, and replace the guts

What compression pistons did you go with?

'96 RS
Performance:
AEM CAI
Magnecore Plug Wires
NGK BKR5E-11 Plugs
(AFX UDP) Coming Soon
A'Pexi Dunk Muffler
(Coming Soon)
Suspension:
FU,RU Strut Bars
Primax 496 17's w/ 225/45/17 Falken Azenis Tires

Looks:
Custom Blue Reverse Lights
Custom Blue Interior Lights
Blue LED Air Vent Mod
Blue Washer Nozzles
Blue HVAC Lights Conversion (Thanks to Hondahater21)
Indiglo Gauges
Greddy Badge Shifter Knob
Momo Shifter Boot
Momo Race Pedals



"Miles Away From Ordinary!"
-Corona

I just bought one of these kits and shipped it to Dino to rebuild a short block for me. I got the 8.6:1 pistons, because I am going to turbo charge it. If you are planning on turboing, then I would get the same ones.

I can and know how to take it out and apart. The only thing I'm worried about is tolerances for when I put back together.

It's very important to make sure the tolerances are accurate. I'm worried about having it too tight or something and burning up the bearing or too loose and having too much tolerance and having it ride on too much oil.

I watch too much Horse Power TV:P