Okies, after my Instant messenger completely blew up today after people heard I used a 2.4 head, which is no spectacular thing in itself cuz it's the same head, just different cams, I figured I'd come out with some of the info I had compiled back when I was about to take on this project, but due to funds, and time, I couldn't do it.

as has been previously stated, 2.4 head and 2.0 head are identical, no differences, so forget about this. The cams in the 2.4 have a different duration, not sure on exact numbers, but it will need to be investigated if you go with an actual 2.4 block.

the 2.4 block is 1" taller then the 2.0 block to accomodate a longer stroke. This may give some hood clearance issues, so it may be possible to lower the motor mounts, or give 50/50, and lower the motor mounts by half an inch, and only have to worry about an extra half inch up top.

With the new block, you'd have to have the crank knife edged and balanced since you would have to take out the balancers due to space (according to thunderous talon). Might as well build the hell outta the 2.4 if you're putting it in there regardless. Get the timing belt off of a pt cruiser, because ours naturally won't fit with a taller block.

If I remember correctly, even the firing order on the 2.4 was the same. This was another question that had came up when I was researching it beforehand (man I wish I could find the entire list me and some asog guys came up with)

Transmissions shouldn't be a problem, they should mate right up without problems. You may run into a problem if you do drop the block down to accomodate the height, so some tranny mounts might need to be fab'd in order to pull it off, I'm not sure on this, just another thing you won't really know until you do it.

The 2.4 you will seriously want to look to, is the mexican stratus 2.4. They come with hella beefier rods and pistons from the factory, because in mexico, they're turbo from the factory. Whether you plan on going turbo or not, those rods look like they can take some abuse.

ECU's should work, my friend Brian has a 2.4 stratus, so maybe one day I'll see what happens if we switch out ECU's. I believe they're the same as well. If my car implodes into a smoldering pile of dust, we'll know they didn't.

I had even more info I'm going to try and dig up. I didn't realize you guys were looking into this that hard, I had done quite a bit of research and talked to some friends. Ryan 95 i4 also has some good info, he talked to CNNP for me to get some information. He's been known to come on here once in awhile.

If ya got any other questions, you can IM me at glacius331 if ya want, although I think half of 2gnt already did today LOL

Glacius since last talking to you i've found a bit more info. Talking w/ Dino he helped me with the whole balance shaft removal on weather it should be done or not. it doesnt have to be, but more reccommended. and not that big of a deal. the drag placed on the crank will not be as much as allpar.com made it out to be.

basically everything i posted on the wrong board LoL.... oops

Yeah the drag on the crank would be no more than we have currently on our crank. And the added bonus of less rotational mass.

Thanks for stopping Glacius.

"The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it." - Albert Einstein



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold 1/2, Rear disc brake conversion kit w/, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines