I am going to rebuild my engine this summer and I was wondering if anyone had an idea as to how much HP I MIGHT be making. I am asking because I haven't been able to find info on someone who has done this much stuff at once. I jsut want to make sure all of this is going to be worth it. This is the list of what I am going to do. Any info would be very helpful.

JE Forged 10.5:1 Pistons that are .020 over
Milled head to raise compression to over 11
Total seal rings
Eagle Rods
Crane Cams
Titanium valve springs w/ retainers
Port and polished head w/ portmatching
3 Angle Valve Job
Total engine balance
Cam Gears
AFX Underdrive crank pulley
Polished and magnafluxed crank

current mods:
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
AEM cold air intake
TenzoR Exhaust with custom piping
MSD wires and ignition
Airmass CompBlu Header
Gen3 altezzas
Indiglo guages and a few other little mods

With the right cams and some headwork and that engine build up you should be close to 160 - 180 HP to the wheels. Possibly even closer to 200 HP if you had a higher redline and drag intake manifold.



________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

You're also gonna need an AFC to lean it out, cause the ECU is gonna take all that new found air and give it more fuel then it needs. with proper tuning you'll get about where fast420a said. just gotta control that fuel.

If you are going to rebuild the engine why not turbo it?

i would but i need to get the engine done cause it has 114k miles on it. turbo is my plan for when i get done with college.. or next summer

is there a reason why you wanna put a 10.5:1 pistons and then mill the head to achive 11+ compression?? wouldn't it be cheaper just to get higher compression pistons???

>is there a reason why you wanna put a 10.5:1 pistons and
>then mill the head to achive 11+ compression?? wouldn't it
>be cheaper just to get higher compression pistons???



Thats the same thing I am gonna do. I am going 10.5:1 and milling for much more than that. Then I will eventially turbo and stick on my other unmilled head for 10.5:1 and turbo.



________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

ya because the next set that are offered from where I am getting them are 12.5 to 1 and I dont want to have to run airplane fuel..

Sounds like you are getting the howell automotive rebuild kit. According to Gary Howell you can run 12.5:1 compression on the street on normal gas with no problems.

________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

yeah that is the one i am getting. i jsut want to be on the safe side cause the highest octane we have here is 91 octane. I jsut dont want to have to buy octane booster all the time. I am going to do a bit more research though before I oreder the parts. I wont have the money till May so I have awhile to decide what to get..If ya want to email me, mail me at aaron_daniel@hotmaail.com if ya want..

Neon Guys are running 12.5:1 CR on pump gas. I would suggest an ignition boy just to be in the safe side in case you need to retard timing any... Neon guys seem to retard about 8 degrees (Don Howard from what I remember was 8 degrees retard, but he has more than just the rebuild. He's pretty modded. My final CR wil be 12.5:1+ oneof the last steps though, so it will be a while... unnless I blow up sooner. I have other toys and will run 10.5:1+ hopefully by July...

"The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it." - Albert Einstein



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold 1/2, Rear disc brake conversion kit w/, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

OoOoO your eclipse sounds like its gonna a powerful NA! Hope they make that ECU for us so you can take advantage of that power. ^_^

Hopefully I can get a job sorted out soon and get the head work done for the Shoot Out and running 10.5:1 in Ohio.

"The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it." - Albert Einstein



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold 1/2, Rear disc brake conversion kit w/, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

hopefully an AFC and a MSD ignition will help solve that problem.

High compresion + Boost = Boom

You've been had then.... check out the post below.
http://www.2gnt.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=show_thread&om=3096&forum=DCForumID13

Enjoy....:)

that's not necessarily true, go ask stan hehe. You can run whatever compression you want as long as you engine can take it and your running the proper fuel so you don't detonate.

Exactly, it can be done. It takes a little more tuning. But I think the end resuct equals a much better power band. You shouldn't have to wait fo rthe turbo to spool up for you to have any power. The high comression will keep you going in the lower rpms and then you are at the turbo spool zone faster... It's all a matter of proper timing control and fuel management.

"The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it." - Albert Einstein



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold 1/2, Rear disc brake conversion kit w/, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines