Yesterday after work I went to go home. My car would not shift into any gear. I check the clutch fluid and its empty. I filled it, and then pressed the clutch a bunch of times and thought I was ready to go. Now my car is really hard to shift into any gear and my clutch is really squishy. Please keep in mind the car was running fine that morning, with now shifting problems. Anybody know what is wrong??

doogie

if it was empty and you just "filled it up" then you have clutch fluid lines full of air. You need to bleed your clutch!!!

it's a snowclipse, a friend of mine had the same prob in his jetta

How do i bleed the clutch? Somebody stole my Chilton's!!!!!

yeah, you will need to blead the line, AND put more fluid in.. cause it if was completely empty and you just filled the resivour, it holds more so I bet that if you check the fluid level again, it'll be low.

on a side note.. this seems to have happened to several people around here.. do dsm's often leak out their clutch fluid??

Bleed the system and check for leaks, if the rubber hose is leaking it's a good excse to getaa SS line. Probably cheaper that the stock rubber one anyway. The fluid shouldn't just disapear, find out where it's going, or you could have this problem again.

"The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it." - Albert Einstein



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold 1/2, Rear disc brake conversion kit w/, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

OK, I'm leaking clutch fluid into the interior of the car. Right where the rod goes through the firewall. Probably a master cylinder problem. Under warrenty, going to the dealer.

But as everybody pointed out I need to bleed the clutch fluid.
HOW DO I BLEED THE CLUTCH?

The dealer will do it when they replace the master cylander ... if they have to.

But it's the same as you bleed brakes. the bleed screw is in the front right by the front motor mount. pump th eclutch pedal and hold it ot the floor turn the blled screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn and let fluid out, tighten back down and let clutch pedal up. pump the clutch and begin process again. keep the reservoir full and do this untill the air has been bled out of the system.

"The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it." - Albert Einstein



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold 1/2, Rear disc brake conversion kit w/, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Thank you SIR!! Seriously thanks everybody for your help. I just want to be able to get it to school and back tonight. It's going to the dealer tomorrow morning.