first got a quik question which wire do I tap for the a/f gauge coming off the ho2 or the pcm and having a strange problem with idle
ported my throttle body just to get rid of the ridge in it and I wass a tooth off on the timeing when I put it in.. car idle low and
a little rough but was fine , and drove fine just a little weak...
reset timeing and now it idles a little rough but the rpms are right.
then when it gets warm any time I push in the clutch the R's drop to 0 and I die any time after it had a load on it, but then when I come to a complete stop and rev the engine a little and let them fall back down it will idle rough but keep running... and I keep getting CEL 11... it is also hard to start you have to give it gas when it starts to crank or it will die... :(

Sounds like you bored the TB out too much, and you bored past that little "nipple" or ridge inside there, so now your idle is way off. Maybe regapping the plugs smaller will fix this? Im not sure myself, but thats what it sounds like happened. i was warned by dino to not accidently bore too far past that little inlet inside the throttle body.

There is a link to hooking up your A/F guage on the main MOD's part of 2gnt.com

I doubt it has anything to do with the TB. Mine's bored out all the way through bigger than the original inside diameter and I didn't have any problems with it. If you did bore past it and let too much air in at idle and I don't think your car would just die like that. Sounds like you aren't getting enough air at idle ... too much fuel ... engine dies ... my guess would be your IAC but it's probably more involved than that alone. Maybe even your TPS.

>first got a quik question which wire do I tap for the a/f
>gauge coming off the ho2 or the pcm and having a strange

Tap the white wire with black stripe.

>then when it gets warm any time I push in the clutch the R's
>drop to 0 and I die any time after it had a load on it, but
>then when I come to a complete stop and rev the engine a
>little and let them fall back down it will idle rough but
>keep running... and I keep getting CEL 11... it is also hard
>to start you have to give it gas when it starts to crank or
>it will die... :(

CEL 11 is CMP or CKP sensors. These are the camshaft position and crankshaft position sensors. Did you undo the connector for one of those? If the ECU is not getting a signal from one of those sensors, it will not run right. I would work on that first. After that, you might blame the IAC motor on the throttle body. The IAC may not be working right and would make the idle rough and hard to start. but work on the CEL 11 first.


Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...

thanx for all the help guys, got the a/f working and I can see what my mixture is doing it is just the auto meter LED style so its just realy a good estimate,but it does show that its running realy rich untill it gets to temp. I pulled both the cmp,and the ckp and cleaned them with contact cleaner and then proed the harness connecters and they were in tolerance.. is there any way to check the sensor its self or a place that should be able to check them for me?!?
timeing apears to be ok, but like I said I was a tooth of and it ran fine now it should be dead on and this started happening so If I can get the problem taken car of tomorrow Im gonna set the timeing back a tooth off like it was so I can go to school for the rest of the week...
still wandering whats going on

I just noticed that CEL is for "timing belt skipped 1 tooth" also. Is this left-over from when your timing was off? Or maybe it was fine and you made it off by "fixing" it? You might clear the ECU (unplug ground) and see if the CEL 11 comes back (leaving the T-Belt where it is).

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...

I got it befor and after the timeing and I have reset the pcm multipule times

I guess it may be time to blame the cam or crank sensor. All I can find in the shop manual is how to test the wiring harness. I can't find a test for the sensors. They are hall-effect types that send an output that switches from 0 to 5 volts. It would be hard to test that without expensive equipment (like an oscilloscope maybe). Maybe you can snatch some sensors from a junkyard motor. I'm sure the dealer would want a fortune for them.


Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...

I got rid of the 11 and now I still have a rough idle...
been a bad week my new starter went out as well got to have it warenteed fiday now Im down to a 32 and a 36
should be egr failer and not enough secondarey air..
any thoughts on how to get rid of them?!?
made a egr bypass and when I put my intake on I caped of the post from my factory exaust manifold for the post secondary air injection
is there a better way ?or somwhere I need to put the valve? to get rid of this code?