Hello all,

I recently bought a 98 Eclipse RS very cheap as I needed an inexpensive daily driver. I know I needed to work on it a bit but I found a problem and I'm not sure what to do. The fuel rail has two lines coming in. The one that goes on top has been cut and plugged with a screw. I'm not sure where it goes. I can't find the other end. Can anyone tell me or even post a pic of what the line should look like and where it goes?

I'm going to try to post a picture of it.

Thank you so much for any help.

Jose

Take a pic as I'm confused as to why you have two. Stock rail on 97+ should only have one as it's a return-less fuel system. Should be a schrader (spelling?) valve and a cap on that top port.

Thanks for the response guys. Indeed is confusing. i'm not sure why it is like this. Below is the picture.

Shade tree mechanic shit is all it is.

Probably an old fuel pressure gauge hooked up and plugged off. Do not worry about it.

Wow that is sketchy, can definitely see why you were concerned lol.

Thanks a lot guys. I won't worry too much about it. I'll just make sure it is better secured.

The issue was that the car is stalling once it is fully warmed up. It feels like a vacuum leak or A/F mixture problems. So when I found this Macgyver contraption, I was worried. I'll keep checking.

Thanks! Happy New Year!

Start with the easy things, check your plugs, wires and coil pack. That checks out ok, move on to sensors (crank position and etc). Check back after that.

Hello all,

I have another update. (sorry for the delay, for now I can only work on the car sporadically). I re-started the car and showed the same symptoms: starts fine but begins to idle rough and spike a bit once its warmed up. I checked the OBD2 and it has a P1391 Loss of Camshaft or Crankshaft Signals. It makes sense. However, I have heard that replacing these sensors are a pain.

Anyone changed these before?

Thanks!

Jose

Search the forum. Check the repair manual. Both are accessible and take a couple minutes to swap out.

Originally posted by CODE4
Search the forum. Check the repair manual. Both are accessible and take a couple minutes to swap out.

Unless your crank sensor is fused to the block and snaps off in the block like mine. Then you'll spend a couple hours scraping off chunks of sensor and then end up dropping the oil pan to push the rest of it out.

Cam sensor should take less than 5 minutes.