Hello everyone I'll start by apologizing for the long paragraphs but I want to be as descriptive as possible.

I went to move my 95 Eclipse RS automatic one night. It started and ran for a second then died. Tried again, it started and ran for a second and died. Tried once more, this time I started it and it ran and I revved it up for a few seconds. As the revs where coming down it stopped abruptly and died. Tried to start it again but this time it won't start. It just cranks over but it cranks weird. It sounds like the starter is just spinning the engine and there is no sign/sound of the engine trying to fire up at all. Thinking the worst I pull all the timing belt covers to check valve timing. Valve timing and everything on the timing belt side looks good. Check fuses and all look fine. Decide to check fuel since I have a gauge handy. Hook the gauge up to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. With key to the on position I get no fuel pump prime and 0 pressure. When I crank it over though it palses from 40-50psi. Which to me is very weird that the pump runs on cranking and it never primes. I double checked and it never once primed. I do the key dance and get code 42 and 25.

42 = No MFI relay (ASD_relay) output voltage at PCM
25 = Idle air control motor circuit

25 I think was from some stupid thing the previous owner had wired to it. So that doesn't concern me. Code 42 definitely does though.

I switched relays from my other 2gnt and it still did the same thing. From this thread, http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=133224 I was testing voltage at the 2 relays on the firewall. I got some weird readings though. With key on and the relays disconnected I got 12v at pins 30 and 86 which to me should be normal. Then when I connected it I got 12v at 30, 86, AND 85. Which to my understanding 85 is supposed to be a ground. WTF!? Also with the key on I get no voltage to the coil pack connector. I'm trying to diagnose all this stuff myself so I haven't been able to test if I'm actually get spark or not. I'm confused to all hell as to where to even look at this point as it seems that everything is being goofy. Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

From further research it looks like pin 85 should be getting ground from the computer and since I have power at that wire it means the computer is not grounding it and completing the circuit to make the relay switch the pump, ignition, and injections on. Does this sound correct anyone? So do I have a computer issue? I have a computer from my other car which is a 95 mtx not and atx. Would I be able to swap computers out considering the 95 atx's have a separate computer also for the transmission right next to it?

I can't get too technical or have an elaborate explanation on your problems...but I had a similar situation I can share.

The fuel pump was not priming and I had random starts like you described. It ended up being a loose wire/connection at the fuel pump. I'd go over the connector and check the leads going into the connector. Over time the wires/clips that plug into the connectors can wear down or become loose and cause intermittent issues like this.

Worth a shot...

The 95 are notorious for having ground traces break in the ECU. It's possible.

I shall check the connector and connections at the pump. As for grounds at the ECU, where should I be checking those? The ground that is under the fuse box area? The grounds on the firewall or fender? I'll probably check them all but I'd like to know the troubled spots to start at. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll let ya know how it goes.

Well I'm still trying to figure this POS out. I switched computers and the fuel pump primed. Tried to start it and it still does the same thing. After a few times of trying to start it I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming anymore. I disconnect the battery to try and see if resetting the computer is what was making the fuel pump prime. It was and after a few times of trying to start it, the pump stops priming again but I can hear it run while cranking. I then had someone crank while I had a screwdriver in the plug wire and arcing to the valve cover. While cranking I'm getting spark. So I figure maybe it just needs a crank position sensor. After breaking the POS sensor off in the block and having fun getting that out and having to rewire the damn thing because 95's had to be different. Go to crank and nothing has changed. I'm at a loss here and I'm tired of freezing my ass off to fix nothing in the end. Any ideas are appreciated. Wire probing? Connectors? Relays? Fuses? Anything is helpful at this point. All I have is a Hynes manual and the interweb.

If you're getting spark I don't think it is an issues with your crank sensor. Did you check the physical circuit for the fuel pump as I said in the previous post?

Pull the backseat, and the fuel pump hangar/assembly. Check that plug that goes to the fuel pump. Unplug, replug, wiggle it around, what have you and see what happens. If the car starts, you're on to something.

Originally posted by xcasbonx
If you're getting spark I don't think it is an issues with your crank sensor. Did you check the physical circuit for the fuel pump as I said in the previous post? Pull the backseat, and the fuel pump hangar/assembly. Check that plug that goes to the fuel pump. Unplug, replug, wiggle it around, what have you and see what happens. If the car starts, you're on to something.

No I forgot about that Cas. I'll give it a look over the holiday as then I can actually look during the day when it's warm.

I forgot to say also. After disconnecting the computer/battery and trying to start the car I have no check engine light codes. :/

Connector looked fine. So the no start continues. :(

Trying to think of sensors that can cause the car not to start at all yet crank all day long. Ignition switch? Neutral safety/PRNDL switch? Cam sensor? The fact that I have fuel pressure at the rail while cranking but no priming and the fact that I have spark while cranking is screwing with my head. What am I missing here!? The car had some stupid immobilizer BS thing with a jank little key that I removed while digging around under the dash but this problem occurred before removing it. It was a box hooked between the ignition switch I believe. I unhooked it and connected all the factory wiring harness back together making it completely factory wiring again. It seemed to have no effect on this problem. I'm about the push thing thing out on the street until summer when it won't be a huge deal to rip into some wiring. Any help?

I've given up on this pile of shit until it gets warmer. All signs point to it being computer related and I don't want to hunt down electrical issues when it's cold as hell here in Iowa. :wallbash

replace the 2 relays on the drivers side firewall