Well it happened. So here is what I've replaced. Timing belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, timing hydraulic adjuster, water pump, timing belt, rebuilt head, all upper gaskets, I think that's it. Now setting the timing is a biotch on this car. I just got it all together and fired it up last night. There is definitely something off. It idles like crap like there is a Hugh came on it so I let it idlefor a min to get warm and while on jack stands got to about thirty MPH and it just shut off and died. Now it sounded like timing. So I have it half torn apart again. Anyone else have any other ideas???? Now it did look like the timing was off so I messed with it and the marks line up in line with the middle of the bolts and the oil pulley is back a half a tooth like the book says.

Originally posted by 99BeaterGS
Anyone else have any other ideas????

Go back and try again. Yes, it can be a bitch to get the timing set right on our cars, but if you don't get it right the first time, try again until you get it. Also if you knew it was running like crap from the start, running it even longer after that isn't really a great idea.

Follow the steps/procedures in this article. Particularly Step 13. That should get you on your way.

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Timing_Belt_Replacement

Originally posted by xcasbonx

Originally posted by 99BeaterGS Anyone else have any other ideas????

Go back and try again. Yes, it can be a bitch to get the timing set right on our cars, but if you don't get it right the first time, try again until you get it. Also if you knew it was running like crap from the start, running it even longer after that isn't really a great idea. Follow the steps/procedures in this article. Particularly Step 13. That should get you on your way. http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Timing_Belt_Replacement

Exactly, Cas. OP, you should have stopped right away. Retime the bitch. Do a compression check once you do to get a quick warm and fuzzy.

Also, your post is not a site related question. Before posting, take a gander at the existing threads to find out if you are in the right area.

Yeah I noticed I posted I wrong spot. I knew it would be moved and thank you. Ok so I'm out here now. Now the oil pump sprocket needs to be back a half notch correct. And while that is back a half notch, the came sprockets need to be in line with the center of the bolts correct? So when the tensioner goes on t should stay the same. Lined up with bolts and back half notch.

Originally posted by 99BeaterGS
And while that is back a half notch, the came sprockets need to be in line with the center of the bolts correct? So when the tensioner goes on t should stay the same. Lined up with bolts and back half notch.

You got it. Just make sure to keep that 20ft/lbs on the pulley while getting the tensioner into place and buttoned down.

Originally posted by xcasbonx

Originally posted by 99BeaterGS And while that is back a half notch, the came sprockets need to be in line with the center of the bolts correct? So when the tensioner goes on t should stay the same. Lined up with bolts and back half notch.

You got it. Just make sure to keep that 20ft/lbs on the pulley while getting the tensioner into place and buttoned down.

Ok I did this and it don't line up now I set the sprockets of set one notch and when I put 21ft lbs on it and then turned the arrows to line up everything came into play marks line up perfectly with the middle of the bolts and the arrows where both tbc ( not a half notch back)

Or is it when I turn the oil pump sprocket back to actual tdc where the arrows line up then the can sprockets will turn and line up so at the end when the tensioner is put on the arrows line up and the can sprockets are in line with middle of bolts

Set crank sprocket 1 notch/half tooth BEFORE TDC. If this does not work, play with the setting until everything comes into line.

Line cam gears up. Install belt. Apply 20ft/lbs to pulley. Slide hydraulic tensioner into place and tighten down. If all lines up, pull pin out of tensioner and you are done.

Originally posted by xcasbonx
Set crank sprocket 1 notch/half tooth BEFORE TDC. If this does not work, play with the setting until everything comes into line. Line cam gears up. Install belt. Apply 20ft/lbs to pulley. Slide hydraulic tensioner into place and tighten down. If all lines up, pull pin out of tensioner and you are done.

Right I understand that but what I'm getting at is it won't line up but when it is a Tadac everything lines up perfectly. Its so frustrating!!!

Originally posted by 99BeaterGS

Originally posted by xcasbonx Set crank sprocket 1 notch/half tooth BEFORE TDC. If this does not work, play with the setting until everything comes into line. Line cam gears up. Install belt. Apply 20ft/lbs to pulley. Slide hydraulic tensioner into place and tighten down. If all lines up, pull pin out of tensioner and you are done.

Right I understand that but what I'm getting at is it won't line up but when it is a Tadac everything lines up perfectly. Its so frustrating!!!

If that is the case, find out which results in better running of the vehicle. Short of having a dial indicator and cam setting fixture that is the best result you are going to yield.

Originally posted by 99BeaterGS

Originally posted by xcasbonx Set crank sprocket 1 notch/half tooth BEFORE TDC. If this does not work, play with the setting until everything comes into line. Line cam gears up. Install belt. Apply 20ft/lbs to pulley. Slide hydraulic tensioner into place and tighten down. If all lines up, pull pin out of tensioner and you are done.

Right I understand that but what I'm getting at is it won't line up but when it is a Tadac everything lines up perfectly. Its so frustrating!!!

Have either your head or block been resurfaced?

Originally posted by CODE4

Originally posted by 99BeaterGS

Originally posted by xcasbonx Set crank sprocket 1 notch/half tooth BEFORE TDC. If this does not work, play with the setting until everything comes into line. Line cam gears up. Install belt. Apply 20ft/lbs to pulley. Slide hydraulic tensioner into place and tighten down. If all lines up, pull pin out of tensioner and you are done.

Right I understand that but what I'm getting at is it won't line up but when it is a Tadac everything lines up perfectly. Its so frustrating!!!

Have either your head or block been resurfaced?

Yeah its a fully reman head and I cleaned the block the best I could. I have pictures but can't figure out how to post them from my phone.

Ok it ran pretty good I believe I got the timing down finally. Took it out for test drive and holy over heated. Come to find outa 8" crack in the top of the radiator......awesome.

Thamx for all the help guys. Now time to order a radiator.

There is your answer. Search through posts as this is common. Shaving material results in a different length. The marks will never line up on factory gears. Get adjustable gears or live with slight misalignment.