Would this set-up be considered decent for a DD that can get up and move still?
I am planning on picking up a 1G turbo model and want to use my 2G as the DD.
If you feel something on my list should be changed then please tell my why and what is better, but in the mean time, here is the set-up I am looking into

12.5:1 JE Pistons .020 over
Eagle I-beams
PT springs and retainers
Custom Intake
2.5" Exhaust
Bore and Hone block .020 over
New Crank (thinking knife-edged, anyone have experience with this type?)
Windage tray
Cams - Graveyard 264/264s
Jeep 60 TB
60mm Intake Manifold port & polished
stage 2 head
MSv3

not going to be able to run 12.5 with a stock ecu. Also might as well just get eagle rods instead of going with reconditioned stock rods.

Originally posted by Fotowntalon
not going to be able to run 12.5 with a stock ecu.

can I run 10.5 on a stock ecu then? or should I just spring and get MS?

Originally posted by FotowntalonAlso might as well just get eagle rods instead of going with reconditioned stock rods.

Sealed Performance pistons do not work with full-floating rods ie. Eagle rods.
The reconditioned rods I am looking at are balanced to .1 gram and are rated to 9k rev, also I have been told the stock rods can withhold up to 260~HP(correct me if this is wrong)

Originally posted by 97 Demon

Originally posted by Fotowntalon not going to be able to run 12.5 with a stock ecu.

can I run 10.5 on a stock ecu then? or should I just spring and get MS?

Originally posted by FotowntalonAlso might as well just get eagle rods instead of going with reconditioned stock rods.

Sealed Performance pistons do not work with full-floating rods ie. Eagle rods. The reconditioned rods I am looking at are balanced to .1 gram and are rated to 9k rev, also I have been told the stock rods can withhold up to 260~HP(correct me if this is wrong)

I hate rod HP rating, it is all guesstimation with tons of variables. HP rating varies depending on how high you are revving, what type of racing you are doing, how you are making power (also other variables like piston weight, rod length and etc) I personally wouldn't recommend stock rods to 9k, at least without a bolt upgrade.

By the way, why are you set on the pistons? are they a cast or super cheap? weird for a piston not to accept the free floating.

Also, 10.5 should be fine on a stock ecu, but the engine wont live up to its potential, id say get at least an AFX ECU if not a MS unit

the pistons are only $160 for the set.

I might just run those in the temp motor and go with a JE/Eagle set-up for the 12.5:1 with a stand-alone MSv3

Just remember you get what you pay for. So if you want this as your DD spring and get a known quality brand, I wont say brand name followings and fanboy-dom is good, but quality brands are always the ones that will last. Also maybe look into the Jeep 4.0 TB they are a decent upgrade if you get the right year its a 60mm that can be cleaned up nice and with a little work will be great.

You may also want to revise your Cam duration wants. Crower 3 cams, which a stock ECU probably wouldnt even idle with, are 254/250. 264/264 would not be advised for a daily driver.

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick
You may also want to revise your Cam duration wants. Crower 3 cams, which a stock ECU probably wouldnt even idle with, are 254/250. 264/264 would not be advised for a daily driver.

I will be running Mega Squirt on the builder motor.

what would you suggest for the temp motor as a slight upgrade in cams? nothing big, THE TEMP MOTOR will only have: intake, header, and 10.5:1 pistons - good cam would be?

Originally posted by 97 Demon

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick You may also want to revise your Cam duration wants. Crower 3 cams, which a stock ECU probably wouldnt even idle with, are 254/250. 264/264 would not be advised for a daily driver.

I will be running Mega Squirt V3.whatever what would you suggest for the temp motor as a slight upgrade in cams? nothing big, it will only be a stock motor, intake, header, and 10.5:1 pistons - good cam would be?

Depends on what you want. Im MSII, 10.5s and Crower 2s and made 186 WHP on a Mustang dyno all motor. If you want more than that, go 3s. Also depends on how DDable you want. Obviously, 2s are going to be more DD friendly than 3s.

Also you are planning on 10.5:1 compression or 12.5? I dont think 12.5 would run on pump gas... but I could be wrong. Unless this it was a typo in which case I apologize..

Originally posted by LE30vm
Also you are planning on 10.5:1 compression or 12.5?

The motor I am dropping in while building the other will be running 10.5:1.
the built motor will be running 12.5:1

Originally posted by LE30vm
Also for exhaust you can get a set of ebay Header back for under 200 shipped 2.5 back Tsudo N1 or SRS N1 are both the popular ebay brands, stainless mandrel bent.

I have an Apex'i N1 Muffler and am going to be running a custom 2.5" exhaust to clean it up and shorten the piping.

Also for exhaust you can get a set of ebay Header back for under 200 shipped 2.5 back Tsudo N1 or SRS N1 are both the popular ebay brands, stainless mandrel bent.

Power is made in the head with n/a, so I would get an agressive port and polish job for the 12.5 compression motor. Also, you should have no problem running pump gas with that 12.5 compression with a proper tune. Don't just go cheap and skimp on the tune, or the tool to tune it with (Buy a whole day of dyno time if you have to)... It wont last you long, and all your hard work will be for nothing if you wanna just get by with that... To tune or not to tune shouldnt even be a question with any motor that has internal modifications. Finally, In my opinion I would run a 3" inch exhaust. If you are gonna be making alot of top end power with stage 3 cams then the motor should flow in every way. (Thats what the n/a Honda guys do and there is a reason for it.)

Originally posted by fast420a83
Power is made in the head with n/a, so I would get an agressive port and polish job for the 12.5 compression motor.

I planned on this, as large of a port as I can go for the built motor, and polished to a mirror like finish.

Originally posted by fast420a83
You should have no problem running pump gas with that 12.5 compression with a proper tune. Don't just go cheap and skimp on the tune, or the tool to tune it with (Buy a whole day of dyno time if you have to)... It wont last you long, and all your hard work will be for nothing if you wanna just get by with that... To tune or not to tune shouldnt even be a question with any motor that has internal modifications.

I plan on getting it tuned very well, dont think it will rev to 11k without a great tune.

Originally posted by fast420a83
In my opinion I would run a 3" inch exhaust. If you are gonna be making alot of top end power with stage 3 cams then the motor should flow in every way. (Thats what the n/a Honda guys do and there is a reason for it.)

3" instead of 2.5"? ok, I can work with that.

I dont think 11,000 rpms is smart with our motors. The Honda guys can do it cause the b16 stroke is 77.4mm. So it can rev to the moon, but with our 83mm stroke you are asking for trouble. Unless you get a custom crankshaft and rod setup that matches the b16 (Like I plan on doing :)) I wouldnt advise it. (I would also say on a side note that our motors are safe up to 8,000-8,500 rpms. The stage 3 cams wont make power beyond that anyways... 11,000rpms are ideal for a good turbo setup since we don't have vtec.)

Meh, just save your money and buy my car, build te block up how you want and swap over the hea.

Originally posted by Fotowntalon
Meh, just save your money and buy my car, build the block up how you want and swap over the head.

How much?

Holy typos batman. sorry about the previous post. I can be talked down on the car, not so much the extras http://limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/3121334089.html