hello i am new. i have a 95 talon esi. i have experience with mechanical part of this car. but i have no experience in electrical work. this is my problem. when i am driving on highway it shudders all of a sudden. i believe the car turns off. but quickly turns back on. as if when u take out the clutch out first gear starts to stall and you press it again and car does not die. my rpms are 3000 all of a sudden car dies drop to 2500 and car turns on again. runs fine. check engine light turns off after that happens. one minute or so later turns back on. all that happens in about 5 seconds. when i come to a stop car idles normal sometimes at 500 other times at 1000. but at times it just dies all of a sudden. no shaking or nothing just dies. it starts up in the first try and runs fine. about a month ago i replaced the ecu because the car had no spark at all. that fixed the problem for about two weeks. now its doing the same symptoms it used to do before it burnt it. my concern is i dont want to buy a new ecu. can someone please help me before it fries the one i have as well. i put new crank sensor new VSS pig tail new IAC pigtail and valve.cleaned throttle body. replace spark plugs and ignition coil.new knock sensor. can someone explain how to test with a voltmeter my connections and sensors please?? im running out of money and ideas!!! thank you so much.

Please start by writing your posts with correct grammar, spelling, & punctuation. Also familiarize yourself with the forum layout and post in the correct sections. Take the time to introduce yourself in the appropriate section before firing off a jumbled, half ass paragraph that few will take the time to read through.

Next, what are the trouble codes?

I am sorry for my mistakes. Well i did the key dance and it only gives me code 14 twice. However i replaced the MAP sensor and still shows the same fault. Yes i did reset the computer. This was a used computer when i bought if from a junk yard. I already changed ignition coil,cam sensor , speed sensor, ECU, plugs and wires, MAP sensor, and nothing. Im getting ready to sell it if i cant fix it.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/chrysler_map_2.0L_2.4L/map_sensor_troubleshooting_1.php

Article on how to troubleshoot map sensor codes. Start with testing the sensor. Since you changed it, it's probably not the issue, but it's possible. Inspect the connector that plugs into the sensor. Is it broken/loose/covered in oil?

Code 14 doesn't necessarily mean a bad map sensor. It means the voltage the map sensor is reading is either too high or too low, which could mean a bad sensor reading the voltage as high or low, but it could just as easily be a bad ground, loose/dirty connector, or a broken or corroded wire. The tests in the article will help you narrow it down some and it will walk you through using a multi-meter to test the voltage coming into and out of the sensor, which should answer at least part of your question about how to trace the wire.

Hope that helps.

Originally posted by bluespunk
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/chrysler_map_2.0L_2.4L/map_sensor_troubleshooting_1.php

That is by far the best link I've ever seen for troubleshooting MAP sensors (they can be quite aggrivate w/ voltage clamps, missing links, and safc's)... props +1 !!

- J

Originally posted by J

Originally posted by bluespunk http://easyautodiagnostics.com/chrysler_map_2.0L_2.4L/map_sensor_troubleshooting_1.php

That is by far the best link I've ever seen for troubleshooting MAP sensors (they can be quite aggrivate w/ voltage clamps, missing links, and safc's)... props +1 !! - J

Agreed.

That was a great website!!! Thank you. Well i tested it and everything checked out fine. I also tested the crank, cam , and ignition coil . Funny thing is that all grounds show 11. 85v , the power show 8.35v , and the signal wires show 4.63v. Specs say that ground should be 12v, power supply between 5-8v , and signal wires 5v.My readings are a little off , does this really make a difference?

On a side note, yesterday i removed all my ground wires cleaned them and placed them back on nice and tight. For some reason now my car wont start in the first try. On the second crank is when it starts after im holding it for about 5 seconds. I already checked the ignition switch, and it seems fine. Another thing that happened two days ago was that i was driving and all off a sudden car turned off on me. The radio stayed on but something really weird happened. My tach rpms went all the way to 9 and stayed there. When i removed the key they went back to 0. But once i inserted the key to start the car the tack would go all the way to 9. I opened the hood and heard a noise coming from the ignition pack. Like a soft hiss. So i removed the battery terminal ten seconds placed it back on and the car ran fine again. It did it two more times so i switched the ignition pack with a spare one that i had and seems to have worked. I dont want to sell my 420a. But it looks like it wants to part with me :(

Wires unconnecting then reconnecting? Weirdo happenings of the car fixing itself? Did you check the wires around the EGR tube?

I did check wires around the EGR tube and nothing was melted. Everything seems fine. Thats y its so frustrating!! I know ECU are bad in 95 420a. I have tried everything all the forums i have searched say to do. I have heard of a break in the wire from the ECU to the sensor itself. Has anybody ever done that test? I removed the harness from the ECU and the harness from the sensors. So basically i inserted one tip in the ECU and the other in the sensor. I checked it under ohms, and i was getting some really weird readings. Has anybody ever done this?

I forgot to post since the beggining , i have a stock 420a cold air intake, headers. No other mods to the car.

Just replace all your sensors and ecu.. That should fix it. lol.. Seriously though.. Your sensors are cheap, and so is a used ecu from ebay. Then you wount have to worry about those things for a while.

Originally posted by fast420a83
Just replace all your sensors and ecu.. That should fix it. lol.. Seriously though.. Your sensors are cheap, and so is a used ecu from ebay. Then you wount have to worry about those things for a while.

Except that he already replaced the ecu and several sensors. If the issue is in the wiring, replacing sensors and the ecu again will not do anything but waste his money. This is especially true if he has gone through the link I gave him and tested the sensor. Further more, even if something managed to mess up the new ECU, he needs to verify that the issue that caused it has been fixed before buying a new one or he will just end up on ECU #4. ECU's don't fail every day, even the 95's. You don't have two go out in a matter of weeks and expect #3 to work out fine without doing anything to find out why. /rant.

Edit: Please don't take that the wrong way. I don't mean to be rude, but just buying new parts without knowing why is how people go broke and still have broken cars. I've played that game and I don't recommend it.

OP, give this a read through:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/4314662

His example is using headlights, but it does a good job of explaining how to verify that the voltage in the system is correct. It also shows how to look for voltage drops and use them to trace electrical issues. Even if it doesn't solve your issue today, it's handy knowledge to have.

If you dig into the first link I sent, there is a link that says "code won't go away" or something like that. Inside that page you'll find:

"The second most common cause of a MAP Sensor code is a Lean Condition caused by a failing Fuel Pump. Most of the time a Fuel Pump will just fail and the vehicle doesn't start anymore, but not always. The Fuel Pump can slowly fail and not send enough fuel to keep the Engine humming along nicely. To check for this, I recommend a Fuel Pressure Test."

Have you verified that the fuel pump is working correctly? A failing pump would explain some of your starting and dieing issues.

Oh. I didn't know he replaced his ecu. He said he didnt want to on his first post... Go through all the Fuel(electrical) that makes her run and check it off, Then the Spark (electrical) and check that off, next, and last the Air (electrical). If still everything comes back fine, then you probably are gonna have an internal issue going on. (but like you said, It is an intermittent issue so u need to run each test for a minute or two to see which one or any is acting up.)

Guys thank you for all your help. A buddy of mine crashed his 99 gs. So i bought the computer with all the harness attached to it. I took out all my old wiring and replaced it with the new one. Worked amazingly. No more 95 ecu!!!!! Thank you guys.

How hard was it to put the 99 ecu and harness in?