Hey guys, I finished my battery relocation but I want to make it legal for track use.. I'm trying to figure out where I want to mount the kill switch and which kill switch I should go with.... If those of you who have done it could throw up some pics of what you did, that would be great. Also, know of any good kill switches with removable keys or that are lockable so my asshole friends won't turn my batt off thinking they're clever... I've been looking around a little, I just want to get some pics of what you all did to get some ideas of what it will look like and what I want to do. I don't take drilling into my car lightly and am hesitant to do it.... :) Maybe a way around cutting into the car possibly? Thanks

No pictures personally, but look at any of the SO pics. Seem like a common spot is on the rear bumper near the license plate.

As far as a lockable one, I have never seen one that looks legal.

I know they make them for marine applications.

If you do the rear bumper then just bolt the lines together bypassing the switch. When you go to track unbolt and connect to the switch.

Originally posted by teklein
No pictures personally, but look at any of the SO pics. Seem like a common spot is on the rear bumper near the license plate. As far as a lockable one, I have never seen one that looks legal. I know they make them for marine applications. If you do the rear bumper then just bolt the lines together bypassing the switch. When you go to track unbolt and connect to the switch.

Thanks. I think I'm leaning toward putting in the center of my license plate, since our bumper already has a hole there. I can drill the hole in between the letters/numbers without causing any problem with reading it. I'm not sure yet though.... Still looking around and reading. I found this one with a removable key.
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Switch-with-Key/dp/B000MTB7XS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1314878636&sr=8-9
Also, for the battery to be track legal, it has to be in an aluminum sealed and vented box bolted to the car, not a plastic one right? I'm looking for a cheap aluminum box for my red top Optima too.
Edit: I don't think that kill switch is legal...

Originally posted by Red90Sev
Also, for the battery to be track legal, it has to be in an aluminum sealed and vented box bolted to the car, not a plastic one right? I'm looking for a cheap aluminum box for my red top Optima too...

From the rulebook...

Moroso makes a nice one for about a hundred bucks.

8:1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts. OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inch- diameter bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence. (“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to Class Requirements.

8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class
Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be
installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily
accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be
connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must
stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off
position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is
“push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the
electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to
activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or
keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be
located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.

Most of us don't bother. Most local tracks that do Safe Street / Test & Tune Night don't care if you're NHRA legal because it's not an NHRA event.

http://www.bremertonraceway.com/2011%20NHRA%20Rulebook.pdf

Look it up.

I wouldn't worry about it to much anywhere else, but the guys up here seem to be real asses lately... They've almost made it impossible to pass tech and every time I've gone, there seems to be some sort of drama... In order to even run down the track here now you have to have a fire jacket too. If you're running something other than a stock turbo, you have to have a shield on it. It's gotten pretty ridiculous unless you own a muscle car, and then they can't kiss your ass enough........ I got bitched out for misting my I/C with a spray bottle with water/meth once even. They said I was going to get it all over the track.... Another time I got bitched out for parking a tire on their rock parking lot (where a lot of muscle cars park). It's pretty obsered. If you own an import, they will literally tech you until they find something that will keep you from running down the track.