Hey, well long story short, I put a scan tool on my 1995 RS and it gave me the CEL code P0340 (camshaft postion sensor a, circurt malfunction bank 1). So I did a continuity test on the pins of the connector of the CMP. Pin one to ground has to be around 4.5 to 5.5 voltage, it came up as 4.99 which is good. Now when I did pin 2 to ground it came up as 2.39 volts, but it's suppose to be between 8.5 and 9.5. So I spliced my newly CMP connector at pin 2 (yellow wire), and I wired it straight to the yellow wire via a new wire at the PCM to see if there is a short and it still is reading 2.39 volts. I read the wiring diagram and the crankshaft position sensor and VSS is on the yellow wire as well and it is not throwing any codes for them. My consensus is that maybe my PCM finally went? I'm not sure where to look after doing all that.
Thanks guys,
-Miguel

I dont have a ton of knowledge with car wiring but im an electrician on aircraft and it sounds like you have high resistance or your PCM is not putting out the right volts. Did you try oming through that segment of wire? also did you check the connector at the PCM? I would just try to rule everything out before having to replace the PCM. I feel that you might be looking at a new PCM, just from you you have said. Iknow this was limited and I hope this help.

Originally posted by eclpeddie
I dont have a ton of knowledge with car wiring but im an electrician on aircraft and it sounds like you have high resistance or your PCM is not putting out the right volts. Did you try oming through that segment of wire? also did you check the connector at the PCM? I would just try to rule everything out before having to replace the PCM. I feel that you might be looking at a new PCM, just from you you have said. Iknow this was limited and I hope this help.

Hey man, thanks for the response. I checked it at the connector and then to find if there was a short I wired up a new wire at the PCM connector. Still was the same low voltage. So there isn't a short, I did check the wires anyways and nothing was frayed. So you think the PCM went bad? Is there anymore test I can do?
Thanks again!
-Miguel

Update:
After all of the tests, I replaced the Camshaft position sensor. That didnt do anything, So I went ahead and replaced the PCM. It is getting the correct voltage now, 9v from the yellow wire and 5.014v from the blue and red wire. And the ground is good as well. The car had no other problems yet it still won't start. I noticed a beeping noise coming from the PCM I bought, so I have no idea what could be causing that. Do I need to restart the PCM? And how do I do that with out a scanner tool?
Thanks,
-Miguel

Newest update: my car is not getting any spark, changed the plugs and it seem there's no power getting to the coil pack. Also the PCM is making noises, beeping and such. And also noticed my stereo is getting alot of feedback.

Where did you get your PCM? I got mine from advance and it makes a humming noise when I shut the car off. Guessing I may have gotten a bad one. Have you checked your crank sensor? Sometimes if it goes bad it'll throw a cam sensor code since they work together. That, coil pack, wires, something on the wiring harness, maybe a relay or fuse (under hood in fuse box), and PCM. That's about all it could be for a no fire condition. Good luck.

Don't need to restart the PCM. Hopefully you got a good PCM. There are a lot of problems with the 95's (I had originally hoped that, that was your problem).

As noted, a bad crank sensor can screw with the timing of the cam sensor. Did you ever check the wires that run along the egr tube? These are a known problem. The wires can get too close to the tube and become fragile and crack. Or they can even melt.

Under the "weird things that can happen" headings; you mention the feedback on your radio. Though probably nothing, I have seen the radio capacitor actually short out and take out components with it. The capacitor is usually located on the front of the block under exhaust mani behind the starter. It is sometimes located on top of the valve cover. (it a small barrel. Maybe 3/4 of an inch long). But by the same token, I believe that wire runs into the same wiring harness that runs over the egr tube.

Just some food for thought.

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Don't need to restart the PCM. Hopefully you got a good PCM. There are a lot of problems with the 95's (I had originally hoped that, that was your problem). As noted, a bad crank sensor can screw with the timing of the cam sensor. Did you ever check the wires that run along the egr tube? These are a known problem. The wires can get too close to the tube and become fragile and crack. Or they can even melt. Under the "weird things that can happen" headings; you mention the feedback on your radio. Though probably nothing, I have seen the radio capacitor actually short out and take out components with it. The capacitor is usually located on the front of the block under exhaust mani behind the starter. It is sometimes located on top of the valve cover. (it a small barrel. Maybe 3/4 of an inch long). But by the same token, I believe that wire runs into the same wiring harness that runs over the egr tube. Just some food for thought.

I deleted my egr a while ago and I saw a thread weeks ago about the egr and I went ahead and checked throughout the loom. No cracked, shorted or frayed wires. Then I did the voltage test on my old PCM and it was correct voltage for the blue and red wire (5v) then with the yellow wire was getting 2 volts where it should have 9v. Then with the new PCM I got all correct voltages. So that is why I kinda ruling out the CPS sensor. But with this feedback I think it maybe pulling voltage from some where. Not sure though.
Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it.
-Miguel

Originally posted by eclipserstturbo
Where did you get your PCM? I got mine from advance and it makes a humming noise when I shut the car off. Guessing I may have gotten a bad one. Have you checked your crank sensor? Sometimes if it goes bad it'll throw a cam sensor code since they work together. That, coil pack, wires, something on the wiring harness, maybe a relay or fuse (under hood in fuse box), and PCM. That's about all it could be for a no fire condition. Good luck.

Okay, well before I replaced my PCM and CMP sensor I did the voltage tests, my CMP harness was only getting 2 volts from the yellow wire. Now with the new but used PCM I bought, the voltage is now around 9v which is correct. But like I said it has a high pitch noise coming from it, sometimes it even beeps in oscilations. I think it maybe pulling voltage or something because my last PCM doesn't even make a sound. Also I hooked up a scanner tool with the newer PCM and the code came up egr, which I have blocked off so I expected that. I went through the harness loom too and there was no shorted or frayed wires. I either put my old PCM back on and get no signal from the cam or I have the new PCM with no power to coil pack and it having feedback going to it. I really don't know where to start. Something also strange, when we put the scan tool on it, it was making a bunch of my relays click over with the new PCM.

Sounds to me like your new but used PCM is bad too. If it wasn't wouldn't you have the se issue when you put the old PCM in also. Just my .02. I'm going to try to find another radio capacitor for mine since I hear the interference, too. And if that doesn't work I'll order another different computer from Autozone and see if that makes a difference. It's driving me nuts as well.

I'm not sure if the PCM is bad or not, yeah it beeping but I could be recieving feedback from some where, is there a way to open the PCM and figure out what would cause the signal loss on my old PCM then salvage my new one to fix it? Solder and unsolder?
Thanks,
-Miguel

when you were talking it sounded like the issue i have been having.

Does any one else on here have their EGR blocked off?

the reason i ask is because i am also having issues. i started having issues after about 1000 miles after i installed my block off kit. I don't think it would cause any problem but i just have that in common with you. I also changed my Crank sensor and cam sensor to no avail. i had my PCM changed with a brand new one from the dealership they also changed my IAC.

After that the car ran fine for about a month. one day i was backing down my driveway to head to work and the car just died. and it would not start for the life of me. i was not getting any spark. I had fuel and the car was cranking i just wasn't getting any spark. i bought a new coil pack and still it didn't fix anything. Some one told me to change my MAP sensor and i also changed that as well. Still no avail.

I towed it to a shop to get it looked at. once i got the car off the trailer it started right up for me. i was pissed. they are still looking at it. i'm trowing a new/used wire harness on it as we speak. BTW my new PCM makes no noise what so ever.

please keep me updated as i will do the same.

Yours sounds like a bad engine ground. I also had a issue like that and when I jiggled the wire on the firewall it was a little loose. Car started right up and I cranked down on the bolt and didn't have to worry about that again.

I'm not sure about piecing together a factory PCM. Tomorrow I'll be going to get the radio capacitor and engine harness from the junkyard and throwing it on hopefully. I'll keep you posted on that.

Hey guys,
Well I gave up on the used PCM I bought, I think it may have shorted out or something. I think I'm gonna hook up my MSnS. And say screw it. If anyone could help me in the process of this I could really use it. The last time I installed it, it worked but only on fuel. I'm gonna have to do spark. Or should I find another PCM? Ughhhh.
Thanks,
-Miguel

I am having a similar problem. I have some one looking at it. They said my ecu is putting out the correct reference voltage but none of my sensors are sending it back. Which tells me there is somthing wrong with the wireing. We are going inspect the reference wire and where it slices off. We think that the slice may have gone bad to prevent the reference voltages from reaching the sensors. It will take some time to try and find the problem. I will keep you updated. Also if you really can't figure it out take it to the dealership. They only charge about 80 to run a full diagnostic. They will tell you exactly what's wrong. That's what I plan on doing if we can't find a problem.

Hey thanks, I've been searching every where for this short or bad ground. My pcm gives off feedback when my CEL light comes on or even the turn signal. I have no idea where it is coming from.

I disconnected all of the sensors and I'm still getting feedback. I have no idea where to start to look where it is coming from...
Thanks,
-Miguel

remember you couls always get the dealership to look at it.

First fix your grammer and try advance auto or autozone, they offer obd2 scan.

Sent via mobile

Originally posted by dalesmitsu
First fix your grammer and try advance auto or autozone, they offer obd2 scan. Sent via mobile

oo my bad

Hey guys, well I still have no idea where it's at, I've noticed some strange things occurring. My right turn signal flashes fast but there's isn't a bad bulb. Also sometimes when I turn the right turn signal on it sometimes restarts my turbo timer. I unplugged the switch its on but I'm still getting feedback to my PCM. Do you think it's maybe a pinched or shorted wire in that loom? And if so, does anyone have a wiring diagram for that?

Originally posted by xiDsmmanix
does anyone have a wiring diagram for that?

http://www.nawdu.de/files/

Download the Electrical FSM and go through it.

On your + battery terminal you should have 4 white wires going into it. Check these.

I don't know if that was suppose to be a smart ass remark, but I don't appreciate it, if it was. All the power wires are connected properly to the positive terminal. I guess all there is to do is start tearing the dash apart. I don't know what else to do. And thanks for the website Code4, I appreciate all the help I can get.
Thanks,
-Miguel

Um, No.... It wasn't. I actually have had 1 or two of my white wires on my + terminal short out on me and get real hot. Just wanted you to check this .

Originally posted by TheRedBarren
Um, No.... It wasn't. I actually have had 1 or two of my white wires on my + terminal short out on me and get real hot. Just wanted you to check this .

I'm sorry I took it that way, would that cause feedback at the PCM? I have no idea where to start on this car, so thank you for the help!
Thanks,
- Miguel

Originally posted by TheRedBarren
Um, No.... It wasn't. I actually have had 1 or two of my white wires on my + terminal short out on me and get real hot. Just wanted you to check this .

Both wires cant short to each other on a D/C circuit. The only way two power wires can short out is in a multi phase circuit. It would be called a "dead short" if two separate phases would be physically short. This would only occur in an A/C circuit. If your wires were getting too hot then you have alot of corrosion inside the wire. This would create a huge draw on the circuit. The amperage would be low due to the corrosion. I can't image you having a short to the frame of the car and not getting any serious problems.

Hey guys, this has been a very very interesting repair. From what I thought was electrical, it turn into mechanical. What happened was, when my PCM fried, it shut all power from the coil, thus jerking the car uncontrollably, in that fraction of 10 seconds, it put enough tension on my camshaft to snap at the 1st cylinder cam journal. So I snapped my cam and thats why it won't start. So now I'm in need of a crower stage 2 cam that has the end for the CMP magnet. Would anyone have one? Or does Crower sell the cams separate?
Thanks,
Miguel

Call Crower.

Originally posted by CODE4
Call Crower.

Will be doing so, come Monday.
Thanks for all the support guys. I really appreciate it!
-Miguel

No problem. Im glad to see you got it fixed. I have a set of Crower stage 2 (3/4 Race) and i love them.