first of all this is all new to me- cars AND computers. Seems like im in the right place though. Performed extensive search but no results. O.K. u ready 4 this one? ha! It all started way back with a fuel pump. REMEMBER- im far from mechanically inclined, have little to no tools, and am broke as hell. changed fuel pump. twice. changed fuel filter. My car then ran like a dream 4 two days. The nightmare shortly followed. She started goin crazy. Bad coil pack- changed. ecu started makin crazy noises and was definitly shot-changed. (with 1 from junkyard)?? it works a lot better but somethins still wacked. key dance read 31-32. evap solenoid, canaster, purge line, vacuum leak and 32 being egr, vacuum leak. I by passed canaster and removed and blocked egr. no results. A friend unplugged the coolant temp sens. and the car will run, somewhat. Guess thats a open or closed loop mode? I bought a new coolant temp sens.- no results. im goin broke with this approach and spent two 10 hr. days lookin 4 a vacuum leak that i cannot detect. What 2 do?

Okay bud, first of all, Use COMPLETE sentence's, and don't bunch your post's up in a Essay. Paragraphs. Remember, most of us don't like to wake up to hard-to-read post like this.

Now your problem, Seems like a check valve on one of your VAC lines may be shot/stuck open. Causing the leak, I know we have 2 of them on a main line, one before & one after the canister.

Don't forget, Code Lookup, Diagnosis is easily found in the WIKI.

Now to me, if its running without a Coolant Temp Sensor. Either The connector is bad, or the wiring is. Did you OHM test the Sensor or wiring yet? Test both your new and old, compare results. If you need help specifically identifying what the readings should be, haynes, FSM, or 2GNT.

Test Wiring, Sensors, Look for signs of cracking/corrosion on the wiring, remember, coolant doesn't like copper at all, especially when it can build up over time from, numerous spills.

Good Luck, Report Results.
Jeff.

Originally posted by 2ndGen-ElTalon
Okay bud, first of all, Use COMPLETE sentence's, and don't bunch your post's up in a Essay. Paragraphs. Remember, most of us don't like to wake up to hard-to-read post like this. Now your problem, Seems like a check valve on one of your VAC lines may be shot/stuck open. Causing the leak, I know we have 2 of them on a main line, one before & one after the canister. Don't forget, Code Lookup, Diagnosis is easily found in the WIKI. Now to me, if its running without a Coolant Temp Sensor. Either The connector is bad, or the wiring is. Did you OHM test the Sensor or wiring yet? Test both your new and old, compare results. If you need help specifically identifying what the readings should be, haynes, FSM, or 2GNT. Test Wiring, Sensors, Look for signs of cracking/corrosion on the wiring, remember, coolant doesn't like copper at all, especially when it can build up over time from, numerous spills. Good Luck, Report Results. Jeff.

Right, got it. sorry dude. I see what u mean though. Your post is a lot esier to read, being that u actually know when 2 start a new paragraph. I personally do not but i will try. thankx.
Maybe (if u dont mind) u can tell me real quik how to look up code and diagnosis on the wiki? This site is kinda hard 2 use. thankx.
Thank u very much for yer input. I will b sure to get back with results. Jason.

Wiki search:

http://www.2gnt.com/search.php

Results:
Went and bought ohm tester. Cat chewed it apart.
bought new coolant temp sens connector and wired it up. No luck.
I unwrapped all wires and see no problem. i went through them all "jigglin" with no luck.
As for vacuum I cannot find any check valves other than fuel pressure relief valve.
I do not understand why it runs as if there is nothing wrong when i unplug the coolant temp sens???? a vacuum leak would still affect it wouldnt it?
Why isnt this topic still on that list? Is it cause i subscribed 2 it? Or did i get the boot?

Did you check the voltage with a voltimeter?

What actual symptoms are you having? Have you checked the map sensor (sensor on the passenger side of the intake manifold)?
I know when mine went out it messed up everything, including idle and driving due to is mis-reading the air. But with the coolant sensor unplugged the car would dump enough extra fuel in the car (possibly thinking the car was still cold) that it "somewhat" cured the issue.

Just another suggestion for you tho. I wish you luck!

Originally posted by Fabs
Did you check the voltage with a voltimeter?

For real dude. If we wanted you throwing cash at you're car, then we would tell you replace this and that and MAYBE it will fix it.

But no, the OHM tester you bought serves a purpose. START TESTING! Use it to probe the Coolant Temp Sensors & Wiring. It should say what the resistance should be in Haynes or Chiltons. Any CEL or anything?

Or Dino "Darkone" has the Factory Service Manual & Specifications in his signature.

Jeff.

UPDATE:
ditchin eclipse (4 now).
Thanks for all the in put. I am gonna build shortly. guess i been "sparked" er somethin.
Quick question that i cannot find in search:
Is there a turbo that i can set at 5-6 psi for stock internals but later crank up to like 15-20 psi after installing forged internals and mega squirt? dont wanna have to buy two different turbos ya know?
Can i use that portfueler that corbin built in the step- by- step fuel system article instead of mega squirt. That dudes a genius, by the way. Can i use that for roughly 20-25 psi of boost?
oh ya! 1 more. i might not even need that much boost- it depends.
Do i have to have such a high psi of boost? i want like 300hp but i want that loud noise from the bov. does that depend so much on the psi?
I know im asking in the wrong forum. i just thought i could get a quik answer while i was here. i dont know. whatever.