so people say the egr need air flow. could you have the solenoid vacuum line on the goes to the mani. you then have two left. could one be open to atmosphere and the other one ran to the manifold so it sucks air thought it? im not sure whats in and out on the solenoid but just a thought

If i'm understanding you correctly it sounds like your creating a vacuum leak. I may be mis-inturpriting though.

Originally posted by Dstach
so people say the egr need air flow. could you have the solenoid vacuum line on the goes to the mani. you then have two left. could one be open to atmosphere and the other one ran to the manifold so it sucks air thought it? im not sure whats in and out on the solenoid but just a thought

- If you have it blocked off, then just use the resistor method. It works for about 3 months, and then after that, disconnect the battery and reconnect it, it should work fine! Its a little bit of a hassle but it will keep you CEL free and will pass inspection if you have that in your state!

no vac leak. the valve is normaly closed but yea ill try restrictor thank you. does egr throw evap code?

no just an insufficient egr flow code. i know i have one right now, haven't done the resistor yet.

well in that case i had the egr plates on but left the wires plugged in to it just hanging there. (only the plastic piece) no code was thrown for that and its a 99

I live in NY and the resistor mod worked for me several times. After you plug in the resistor after the ECU has been reset, you are usually good for around 300 miles or so before the ECU realizes you are "tricking" it. During that time, as long you have enough miles logged for the car to be emissions ready, you should be able to pass.

This is of course assuming there is no visual inspection by someone qualified enough to see that you have removed the EGR system.

I :love SC

i didnt do resister and it didnt throw egr code. just left it plugged in

My 99 is too smart. It always knows when the EGR is modified. :wallbash

yea thats why i was suprised. everyone is trying to find a solution but mine doesn't have a clue. it has evap code so I put it back on and that wasn't it so I'm searching for what it could be. But its been crappy weather here in Baltimore so i haven't had time to find it

Originally posted by Dstach
yea thats why i was suprised. everyone is trying to find a solution but mine doesn't have a clue. it has evap code so I put it back on and that wasn't it so I'm searching for what it could be. But its been crappy weather here in Baltimore so i haven't had time to find it

- thats weird :shrug , that sounds like something a 95 would do lol

Originally posted by Dstach
yea thats why i was suprised. everyone is trying to find a solution but mine doesn't have a clue. it has evap code so I put it back on and that wasn't it so I'm searching for what it could be. But its been crappy weather here in Baltimore so i haven't had time to find it

Evap codes have nothing to do with the EGR. First thing I would check is the vacuum lines going to the emissions equipment on the passenger side of the car.

Ez - I have a 99 as well and the resistor mod works fine for me :shrug

EVAP Code - Check the EVAP canister and connections behind the front passenger side bumper vent. Vac line comes from the TB and connects to a hard line near the passenger side strut tower. Also check the fuel vent valve (if 97 and later model) under the car in front of the gas tank. Finally, check the seal on your gas cap.

well the code is EVAP ventilation switch but Ive looked it up at advance auto and pep boys and no one. they have it for another car. I googled it and it had it on advance and when i clicked it said this will not fit a 99 eclipse so I'm lost on how to get the part now

But how? The resistor mod takes care of one problem, but the other is that when the EGR opens, the ECU looks for a corresponding drop in idle.

I'm not sure. they are dsms so anything is possible. I never got a code. I also don't think the egr detects flow. it only has two wires so it almost can't. It might go off manifold temp. If it read flow it should have 3 wires but I guess it is some crazy wiring set up they have right? And I might have a kinked vac line. the one from manifold to rear of car ( its a 99, evap all in fender) but need to check it out. Any one know where is goes to or how to see it from underneath?

All I know is that without the EGR system, if I just have the solenoid plugged in I get the insufficient flow code in 20 miles or so. When I plug in the resistor, I can go 2-300 miles before the code pops up, during which time I never have an issue passing inspection.

Cant tell you why it works, I can only say that it works.

**Update**

Just passed inspection with this method for the third year in a row. Unplugged my battery, plugged in the resistor, went out and drove 30 miles on the highway, pulled into Pep Boys, and passed.

Works like a charm!