they told me that my compression in cylinder one is 60, and the rest are right around 175ish. also, that they wanna send my engine to a machine shop to see if the valve is bent. (1400bux)

also, they stated that it was caused by overrevving the engine. when i told him there is a rev limiter, he didnt know what i was talkin about. (anyways, the problem happened durin a shift from 1-->2 gear at 3500rpms)

he also stated that the timin belt service they had performed on 1/3/02 had nuthin to do with it, yeah right.

what i need is any good arguments to get em to cover all the work they need to do on my engine.

i tested the compression right before this happened, and got 190-170-185-190 so something is wrong here.

thanks for the help

man.. they sure are being a pain about this.. you shouldnt have to pay for anything..

so you said they had taken off the valve cover during the timing belt replacement.. if so im curious as to why.. but seriously they did something wrong, cause how in the hell would you over-rev the engine.. and how would they know it happened during a shift from 1-2 at 3500rpm.. over-reving.. boy they sure do know how to come up with crap. arent you coverd by a warrenty or anything..

1-888-MITSU-2001 call them and explain your problem...

I'd dial 1-800-BEATSOMEASS. They should have down a leakdown test to prove a bent valve. A comp test is NOT sufficient evidence of a bent valve. How did they even come up with over-revving in first gear??? Why bend one and not the other 15 if overrevving was the case?(which it can't be) Tell them that you everything put back together the way it came in,(new valve cover gasket at least) and yell alot when your there during busiest hours. Or worse yet, show up 3 mins. before service hours or closed and keep them over. Techs and managers hate that(I know I did).

TAKE IT TO ANOTER DEALER AROUND THE AREA, EVEN IF YOU HAVE TO TOW IT, THOSE FUCKERS ARE BASICALLY BLOWING YOU OFF BECAUSE THEY DON'T WANT TO TOUCH IT CAUSE THEY KNOW THEY PROBABLY FUCKED IT UP.



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Get it in writting that it was cased by over revving. Have then explain how they base the facts on that and what rpm it would of happend at. Then you've got them in a lie, caus ewe cant rev past 7200, and theres nothing in the manual that says reving to 7000 will cause engine falure. Cause if it did then how would you get on the freeway and pass???
There fucking with you, take your lawyer down there :-)
But what ever you do dont agree to pay for there fuck ups!!!

also talk to ur insurance agency... my friend's engine blew and he got a new one out of it by telling them the lower radiator hose came off!


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Thank you and have a Rice day!!

aight fellas, good info.

this is what they said, that after comp test (60 psi in #1), they figure they need to pull the head, send it to a machine shop, and work on it. they said the cause of my problems was because of over revvin the engine. i realize the rev limiter.

the problem started, my account of what happend, on the 1-->2 shift at 3500 rpms.

keep the ideas cummin, cuz i need about 1400dollas worth of ammunition when i talk to the service dept. again.


i dont know if they pulled the Valve cover to do the timin belt. the only time it was off was when i was tryin to find the prob that was goin on. satan said that dirt got into it, causin the cam lobe to grind.

thanks much
by the way, of course i want to take her to another dealership, but i need them to do the work so it is covered under the warranty.

i have surpassed the 60k/5yr warrantee, i got 61500 miles.

What exactily are they susposed to do for 1400??? Is that just the machine shop charge?

dont konw yet, i will have more info as soon as i talk with them again. i have to figure a way to approach the situation in a proper manner so i dont say or do the wrong thing that would cause me to be liable for the cost of fixin her.

There's no way some "dirt" from the valve cover will wear away a cam lobe in a couple of days. Score it, maybe. But not grind it down. When Guy put his motor together, it was specifically checked to see if there would be any interference in the event of a timing belt break. There wasn't. This means our motors are non-interference - the valves won't hit the pistons if everything goes out of time. This also means bending a valve due to over-revving would be highly unlikely IMO. You would have to over-rev it to 9 grand or better and the ecu just won't let you do that. What do the Neons redline at? I know it's higher than us and they don't have any problems. Bouncing it off the rev limiter won't bend valves either. Not real sure what the problem could be from the description, but it sure sounds like you're getting phucked hard.

Actually, are motors ARE interference motors. I have double checked this, and AEM also checked it. If our timing belts break, the valves will be bent. I bent my valves, and they said there was a risk of piston damage too, but fortunately there wasn't. But maybe my definition of intereference is different from what you are saying...

This is what I found:
An 'interference' engine is an engine where the valves and pistons occupy the same space, but not at the same time. The other engine style is a 'non-interference' engine - this design provides enough room between the pistons and the valves so that they never occupy the same space. Non-interference engines are sometimes called 'free-running' designs.

Interference engines are a fairly common engine design. All diesel engines are interference designs, and many imports. Domestic engines have tended towards non-interference designs. Although all engines use timing belts, they are more crucial on interference engines; should the timing belt malfunction, the valves and pistons will likely collide.

While this may seem like a stupid engine design, there are reasons why an engine may be designed as an interference engine. Higher compression ratios are possible, leading to better fuel economy, power, and emissions quality.

Interference engines have the inherent risk of major engine damage due to timing belt failures.
>>>
I'm pretty sure our engines are interference which is why valves are usually bent if you break your timing belt...can anyone clarify?

Did you plant next year's harvest? There's no way in hell that you could have possibly got that much dirt in there. It's easy to figure that one out, pull your pan. If theres shit in the bottom then maybe you did, but what I gather from alot of members of this board have more common sense than a fruit fly(or this service manager) to not crap in there. Not to mentioned grit and crap is expected to make it's way in there. Our oil pressure would at times make the oil filter bypass some oil that could have crap in it. Reasonably, if you had about 100k on the motor then you could see some wear on camshaft lobes. If they're worn out and you have like 40-60k on the motor, they f*cked something up. The only other thing that you could have done to make as much damage as you say, is ran the engine low on oil, the head is last to get oil. I have dealt w/ dealers and had my own disagreements. (Not w/ my RS) MAKE THEM PROVE THEIR CASE! The things I was taught when cars came in is to do the most precise testing that I could. They are shootting in the dark. They see a prob and want money. They don't care about you satisfaction.

I wont pretend to know as much about our motors than you all do. But.. If out engines ARE interference.. and lets say... some dip-shit mechanic messed up on the timing belt install and slightly bent a valve. Would this cause this sort of damage?

this is what im tryiin to figure out run4cvr

I am also sure our engine is interference. Back in june my timing belt broke 2k miles after I got it replaced. I was at 4500rpm's and I ended up bending 8 valves and damaging 2 pistons. I fought and fought and ended up getting a heck of a deal paying the difference for je pistons and crower rods. Satan covered all the machine shop charges and assembly.

Best of luck Sean.

YES!!! Our engines are interference! You could have bent a valve if the timing belt was off a few teeth, maybe whoever installed it, did not put the proper tension on the tensioner when they did it.If its too loose, the belt could possibly jump a few teeth, or they just simply didn't do the proper timing. I'd bet thats what happened. I would also physically look at the mechanic while doing the compression test to be sure they aren't BSn you...