is a specialty tool needed? or can you just use something to keep it still to take the bolt off?

and if u must need that tool can u rent it from somewhere? im guessing its expensive to buy

Rent the tool.

14:49:55 ‹Flipadelphia› do i need a specific puller for the crank pulley or just something to hold it still while i undo the bolt?
14:50:15 ‹grain› stock?
14:53:03 * Flipadelphia quit (timeout)
14:57:32 ‹freelancefool› guess it wasn't that important
14:58:02 * barza21 joins 2GNT Chat
14:58:50 ‹barza21› gents
14:59:01 ‹Locke_db› Flipadelphia, (for if/when you come back) see here for your answer: http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard..._forum=

You should really want more than 20 seconds for an answer.

im at work with no computer on my iphone and the chat wouldnt scroll down, sorry.

is that something like autozone would rent out?

Yes. $80.

make sure you get the one for our motor, not just any udp pulley will work

so if i got udp id need ANOTHER tool to put it back?

What tool are you talking about here? The 3 jaw puller to take it off, or the long bolt to impact it on? As far as I know there is no "UDP" tool.

the puller

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick
What tool are you talking about here? The 3 jaw puller to take it off, or the long bolt to impact it on? As far as I know there is no "UDP" tool.

Yeah I mean harmonic balancer pulley specifically for the Chrysler. Cause not just any puller will work. Chrysler ftw...

I had to make mine. i did like 2 years ago, i believe the puller is from sears, and then I baked the metal rod for 2 hours at 650 degrees then threw it into a bucket of ice water. welded it to the puller, and WHA LA

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Uploaded with http://imageshack.us>ImageShack.us

all in all no auto store around me had the chrysler one, and i wasnt about to buy it for 180.


-Jason

I've broken a crank pulley before with that style jaw before. This was on a pulley I had removed three or four times.

Originally posted by freelancefool
I've broken a crank pulley before with that style jaw before. This was on a pulley I had removed three or four times.

so the tool u get for $80 at autozone worked better for you...?

Yea.

good. thats more convenient. thanks!

Okay so I got the tool... and this is what happened...



It just sheared off and the pulley that remains on the car is WHAT I NEED OFF!

I got absolutely nowhere, this is getting fuckin ridiculous...

Thats not an UDP. Thats a factory pulley and you pulled on the outer ring. You must pull on the inner ring.

BTW you need a new pulley now.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Thats not an UDP. Thats a factory pulley and you pulled on the outer ring. You must pull on the inner ring. BTW you need a new pulley now.

Yup. As a matter of fact, I don't know how you could do that using the Chrysler removal tool. I don't think Mine can reach.

On the bright side, if you do use the correct tool properly, the rest of the pulley will come right off.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Thats not an UDP. Thats a factory pulley and you pulled on the outer ring. You must pull on the inner ring. BTW you need a new pulley now.

^ :p

Post a pic of the tool you used. I am curious how the factory damper could do that.

dam bro, you must have deff. used the wrong tool, i didn't even know our pulley was two peices haha, but at least now you have a reason to get an UDP...haha

He had to have used a standard large 3 jaw puller. FWIW you need to use the smaller one with 4" arms or use the actual chrylser 3 arm puller which is much much smaller.

Haha yeah I used a 7 ton universal 3 jaw. I was contemplating getting an AF/X haha. There's my answer! I went to autozone and got the Chrysler specific tool and I got it off but the rod that was in the kit wasnt long enough. I had to go get a 3/8 steel rod cut to about 6" but it's off!! But the motor still won't come out. I'm about to just lift the motor until it just shreds shit out with. I'm beyond giving a shit at this point.

Originally posted by Flipadelphia
I'm about to just lift the motor until it just shreds shit out with. I'm beyond giving a shit at this point.

Ok, slow down there Kimosabee. Take a breath and step away for a sec. I take it you have a cherry picker, no? You want to bring it up and out of the bay, or down to the ground? Are you taking motor and tranny out together or are you just trying to pull the motor?

I do have a hoist and I'm trying to bring it up and out without the tranny. I can't get enough clearance for the flywheel to come out of the bellhousing.

i have an odd feeling you dont really know what your doing.

Originally posted by Flipadelphia
I do have a hoist and I'm trying to bring it up and out without the tranny. I can't get enough clearance for the flywheel to come out of the bellhousing.

Did you unbolt the clutch off the flexplate?

Originally posted by freelancefool
Did you unbolt the clutch off the flexplate?

That was my next question.

Need to do that and the room will be a little tight to pull out. Pulling the alternator will be helpful. Is the AC unit still on?
Also, if you are still having a problem, it will help to pull the radaitor. But this is not necessary.

MB

The radiator is out, AC is out and i wasn't sure if you needed to unbolt the flywheel from the flex plate but hell. I'll do anything at this point. Thanks for the solid input guys!



As far as "you don't know what you're doing" yeah my bad for not coming out of the womb knowing how to remove my engine...? You learn by trying.

Either you're a hypocrite or you take your car to a shop. Either way... Not in any position to contribute to this post.

Chill dude. Grain pulls a motor to do timing belts. Less hassle for him that way. To each their own. The first motor I pulled took me about 4 hours. The second time was 2 hours.

It gets easier the more you do it.

Originally posted by Flipadelphia
As far as "you don't know what you're doing" yeah my bad for not coming out of the womb knowing how to remove my engine...? You learn by trying. Either you're a hypocrite or you take your car to a shop. Either way... Not in any position to contribute to this post.

Relax. Grain knows his shit.

True - you learn by trying, but one should also educate oneself prior to taking on a task. You do not engage in a gunfight without taking some marksmanship training first.

What we are getting at is that at the very least you should be consulting a Chilton/Haynes manual or better yet, the Factory Service Manual, prior to pulling a motor.

I have a Haynes and chilton both of which are worthless when wanting detail. Also I'm sure he does know his shit, however, that post was not informative at all and was a waste of space.

Aside from that though I've researched, and researched some more. Every forum, manual, wiki, google search and DIY mechanic have contradicting information and/or completely different information than the last. Don't take radiator out, do take it out. Tranny can stay, nope absolutely can't. Crank pulley isn't necessary oh wait it is. Use a 5 ton 3 jaw puller no problem. Wait, Chrysler specific tool only. I could go on and on. So my only option is to post up the next problem I run into in real time versus the big picture at once. That helped me about 0%. This method seems to work though you guys are very helpful aside from "you don't know what you're doing" ... Clearly. I do have though a couple new ideas to tackle.

If I interpreted the comments correctly - the doubt was stemming from the fact that you had not separated the flywheel-> flexplate bolts.

One of the critical steps in the FSM.

That is probably the only thing I've yet to find to read. Is it just me or if it was critical it should be in 2 other manuals I own. Is there a PDF version around here somewhere or is that like 6 figures from the dealership?

Also, I appreciate the speedy replies! :-)

I buy the Talon FSMs on Ebay. They run about $30 shipped. The blinker circuit is the big difference between them electrically.

I'll definitely look into that.

On a side note, will the MPx 95-99 UDP work for my car?

shoot us a link to it, if i remember correctly, the udp will bolt up, but i am thinking that one or maybe both the belts are different. But I know it can somehow be made to work.

http://www.modernperformance.com/underdrive-pulley-belts-9599-neon-p-1958.html

I do know most other stuff is the same and the only reason I am not getting the af/x one is because for some reason that one is impossible to find now.. anyone know what happened to it? it's not on the website anymore.

What about the bomz one? I know it's a cheapie but anyone ever tried that one out?

Originally posted by Flipadelphia
I'll definitely look into that. On a side note, will the MPx 95-99 UDP work for my car?

Search, this topic has been covered. It will bolt up however 1st Gen Neons ran different a different belt for the Power Steering and A/C. If you plan to delete both, you can use the pulley without worries.

Not only has it been covered, but I already gave you an answer to the same question in your other thread.

Yeah I already read that one.

If the MPx, afx, obx udp's are so popular then why can't I find any of them. Seems MPx and afx no longer exist and obx is for 4g63...? Am I going to have to resort to the eBay bomz pulley?

LOL I found the afx pulley. I tried adding it to the cart and it wouldn't let me it said to call so I call and this was the conversation... "hi I tried ordering a part from your site and it told me to call you" her... "I don't understand" me... "uhh howell automotive correct?" ..."yes" ..."your website - trying to order a part - added to cart - told me to call...?" ... " I don't get it?"

Are you kidding me?

I called howell a while ago (thinking this was last yearish) about it. They dont make them anymore, or were waiting for supplies or something weird (sorry my memory sucks)and had no eta on when or if they would make them again. Anyways, I personally wouldn't trust obx, but to each his own. there obx, maybs bomz, UR, and ebay that i know of beyond the mpx and af/x if you can find a used one somewhere.

I think I'm just gunna go ahead and get the unorthodox. It's only $60 more.

I hope it at least comes with belts.