After going thru at least $200 in accesory belts, Ive decided its probably my cheap no name ebay UDP, so Im putting my stock one back on. Heres where I want to sell the damn car. I spent 2 hours trying unsuccessfully to get the stock one back on. It will not go on the snout all the way. Tried impact gun, just started screwing up the threads on the crank bolt. Tried hammer and piece of wood, then tried putting it on the burners of a stove for like 5 mins. Not sure if that just wasnt enough time or what, but it still would not go on all the way. Any tricks to getting this damn thing on?

people don't like my method. i'd suggest using the official tool

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick
Any tricks to getting this damn thing on?

Use the correct tool specified. Read my post here.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=130477&mode=full

Either using the proper chrysler tool or the oven. A burner won't thoroughly warm the pulley

Crank your oven to 450-500* and let the pulley sit in there for at LEAST 30 min. If you take it out and slip it right on the crank snout it should slide right on. If its pretty warm outside then a can of computer air sprayed on upside down to chill and shrink the snout will help too.

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
If its pretty warm outside then a can of computer air sprayed on upside down to chill and shrink the snout will help too.

very creative. i like that

Thanks guys. Ill try this first thing tomarrow.

Originally posted by 420agreenvilleSC

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G If its pretty warm outside then a can of computer air sprayed on upside down to chill and shrink the snout will help too.

very creative. i like that

Thank you! I figured it out when I was doing a timing belt on a 103* day and even the oven trick wasn't working because the engine hadn't ever cooled even though it had been off for hours. Sprayed the snout with the air until it started frosting over, ran and grabbed the pulley out of the oven and it slipped right on

Thanks for the advice guys. I put it in the oven at 450* for half an hour. It still fought me the whole way on the crank snout, but it was easier and with a hammer and a piece of wood and an impact gun I managed to get it put all the way on. Checked the alignment with a straight edge, looked good. Now if I chop another belt Im probably just going to sell the car...

Well... So far no jumping or shredding belts. But Im getting a squeeling whenever I take it to redline, or basically anything over 5k.

Also, Holy shit you can feel the difference between UDP and stock pullies, even when a car is at this stage of power.

tell me what you felt. differences. i might buy a UDP. by the way, where's the squeel coming from? the PS/AC tensioner??

Originally posted by 420agreenvilleSC
tell me what you felt. differences. i might buy a UDP. by the way, where's the squeel coming from? the PS/AC tensioner??

The car felt quite a bit laggier. Like it took longer to rev out, even in first gear. It also hung at high RPMs longer, such as revving to 7k and then letting off the gas. It slowly dropped to idle whereas before it would go rock bottom to it. Feels like it may have a bit more torque, due to the rotating mass. I figured making 167 HP it wouldnt matter but Im looking for a different pulley now.

As far as I can tell, yes the noise is coming from the tensioner. I tightened the belt way down, I can hardly push the belt down where you check the tension on them. Anything looser than that and it would squeel at idle and light accel too. Maybe the bearing is going bad in the tensioner? If I spray belt dressing on it or PB blaster into the bearing on the tensioner the squeel goes away for a few seconds. I know I dont have the tensioner over tightened, Ive done that before and make sure I dont over do it.

Which belt has been shredding? The ac/ps shredding is a common problem regardless of what crank pulley you are using. My solution is just to remove it all like I have been preaching to you since forever. As for other udp's I'd recommend getting a hold of a AFX but thats if you can find one, I am personally using an unorthodox racing one and especially when I hit the power-band I notice the rpms climbing quicker.

I'd bet it's the tensioner. If you remove it you'll need a 5050490 belt.

yea, delete the tensioner. loosen the side bolts on the PS pump that let it slide towards/away from the engine, put the belt on, pry on the PS bracket and pull the PS Pump away from the motor, while prying, tighten the bolts. done. :)

Does that really work better than the tensioner?

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick
Does that really work better than the tensioner?

I've been doing it for years. I have yet to throw a PS/AC belt that way.

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick Does that really work better than the tensioner?

I've been doing it for years. I have yet to throw a PS/AC belt that way.

Interesting. This must be how the few cars that came without AC have their belts tensioned? I assume this size is for the stock pulley, correct? Im thinking it would be a 48" belt for UDP, since its 1" shorter than stock with the tensioner.

Do you get any squeeling when you turn the AC or anything on? Or have you deleted it? BTW, Im SO glad I left my AC on the car. The other day it was about 100 and humid as shit here. Cranked up the AC after a fresh recharge and laughed at my one buddy that took it out of his DSM.

No squealing whatsoever on a stock crank pulley. I'll let you know if a 48 works on an underdrive, I just put one on my car over the weekend but haven't had a chance to drive it yet. Tension seemed ok, a hair looser than I would have preferred, but not so loose to make me worry.

Edit: Just talked to the in-laws (car is on their property) They moved the car and didn't hear any belt squeal.

you can also use a bigger socket then the bolt and hammer that baby in.