So last August I was just cruising around 65 mph in 5th when my RPM's dropped to zero and my car basically shut off (power still worked though). Pull over, pop the hood and smell oil, look at my cam gear area and my timing belt is just f**ked.

I finally decided to actually look more in depth and this is what I have found.





Notice anything missing? mmmmm Tensioner pulley.



Tangled mess I removed from the cam gears.




Right now im about to remove the head to see just what damage I will find. Im kinda pissed because I did the HG like 100 miles before this and used ARP's, which I am curious.. will i be able to reuse them do you think or will they be un-reusable? Note to self... When super frustrated at 2am putting everything back together, DO NOT skimp on putting the lower front timing belt cover back on :Kicks himself:

Looks like the tensioner pulley just got up and left. :eek

Try throwing a new timing belt on it and see if you got lucky and the cams stopped in a neutral location preventing the valves from being smacked. I'd say you've got a 50/50 chance of it being ok.

ARPs are ok to reuse.

Also, switch to a mechanical tensioner this time around ;)

Another reason on why not to use the hydraulic tensioner :P

http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product1781.html

Will this replace both the pulley and the tensioner itself then?

holy mother fuckkk. yes, please listen to slo2g and teklein. they are absolutely correct. thank god i went w/ mechanical

Originally posted by mysteryclipse21
http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product1781.html Will this replace both the pulley and the tensioner itself then?

Yup. You have to modify the rear timing cover slightly so that it will sit flush, but it's not a big deal. Once I figured out how the dang thing works I really liked installing it.

Awesome, ill be ordering this soon then! Should I even pull the head then do you think to check the valves? I mean I really don't want to at all, because i suppose i do have a 50/50 shot like mentioned.

Originally posted by mysteryclipse21
Awesome, ill be ordering this soon then! Should I even pull the head then do you think to check the valves?

I wouldn't. I'd take the shot and roll the dice.

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by mysteryclipse21 Awesome, ill be ordering this soon then! Should I even pull the head then do you think to check the valves?

I wouldn't. I'd take the shot and roll the dice.

Exactly. I just wouldn't do up the side mount before trying to fire the engine. Throw the belt on, see if you've got fire. If not, double check timing and try to fire it again. If it still doesn't work then you probably need to pull the head.

Send me your hydraulic tensioner. Tensioner wasnt the issue here.

I have had at least 3 of these throw timing belts and I went ahead and just replaced the belt and it ran no problems. Dont pull the head just replace the belt and components.

Another factor I forgot to mention through this is that while taking the crank pulley off, it moved slightly in each direction (cw and ccw) while trying to get it off with the 3 jaw 5 ton puller. What will this have affected, if anything? Note: Timing belt was obviously not functioning while this occurred.

How much movement are we talking about? 1/4 turn? Don't worry about it. If you haven't hit the valves in the first place you're not going to bend them turning the crank by hand.

And Terry is right, the hydraulic tensioner didn't do this, but I'd bet that your tensioner pulley that wasn't fully attached caused the majority of the carnage.

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
How much movement are we talking about? 1/4 turn? Don't worry about it. If you haven't hit the valves in the first place you're not going to bend them turning the crank by hand. And Terry is right, the hydraulic tensioner didn't do this, but I'd bet that your tensioner pulley that wasn't fully attached caused the majority of the carnage.

1/4 turn at the most, yes.

Alright, so its been a little while since i've reported back with this. What I have done so far is I replaced the old tensioner, belt, and idler pulley with a PD mechanical tensioner, gates racing belt, and new idler pulley. Checked timing about 10-12 times, decided its time for the moment of truth. Put some oil in, filled up the coolant, and charged up the battery.

Before I go any further, I want to let everyone know that alls i did was put the passenger side motor mount on and thats it (No PS, Alt belt, Crank Pulley, etc). I turned the car to start it and it cranked but never fired. I double checked the timing and it was good to go. Im wondering if perhaps having the car sit in its same spot for literally a year that the gas may be the problem seeing as I never put any Sta-Bil in it (i know i know). I am guessing the gasoline is more like vasoline now, so also whatd be the best way to get rid of the gas in it now?

So, I am just curious what your guys input on this is? Am i S.O.L. or do I still have a shot at this firing up?

Comp check first

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Comp check first

Alright ill go to autozone and rent one tomorrow. I only have like an eighth a tank of "gas" in it so, if compression turns out good should i throw some seafoam in the tank and let it sit for a bit then throw some 93 in it?

Originally posted by mysteryclipse21

Originally posted by bullettdsm Comp check first

Alright ill go to autozone and rent one tomorrow.

Aren't comp testers like $25? Why not buy and always have it on hand?

The big question here is whether or not the busted belt damaged the valves. So that would be the best place to check first. Why bother with anything else until you are sure you have comp to work with?

A compression tester can be had for $20-$30 depending on store. Mark is correct, there is no reason to muck about with anything else until you're sure there is (or is not, as the case may be) internal damage. A compression test will Let you know right away if there is something seriously wrong.