So I have a miss fire that I cant track down and I need your guys help. This miss fire only happens at higher rpms (after 3500 or so rpms) and when at wot. when this happens the car stops accelerating and misses its butt off, wont accelerate. So far ive checked the fuel pressure, the fuel volume (both ok), replaced spark plugs with ngk v-powers, swapped the coil with an old coil I had laying around, swapped the fuel rail and injectors with another rail I had, checked power, signal and grounds for crank and cam sensors, even swapped out the pcm for two others I had still nothing helps. And i cant get a scan tool on the car to pull codes none will connect. oh yea compression is in the 160 to 170s on all four cylinders which isint the best but still should not cause this miss. Sry this is getting long but im getting sick of trying to find this and need your guys help. thanks in advanced!!

I saw that you swapped coil packs and plugs, but have you tried wires?

Are you turbo? Are you watching fuel pressure throughout the entire power band or are you only using idle fuel pressure as a checkpoint? Sounds like it may be fuel cut. If you are turbo, maybe your FCD/missing link is failing.

Originally posted by Ebster1085
Are you turbo? Are you watching fuel pressure throughout the entire power band or are you only using idle fuel pressure as a checkpoint? Sounds like it may be fuel cut. If you are turbo, maybe your FCD/missing link is failing.

Its n/a. And no I didn't try wires. They all have good resistance. Possible they have a hole in them or something but I think its unlikely. Oh yes fuel test were done at idle and 3500rms

I'm going to say it is your wires. My car was doing the same thing back in october. Bring it up to around 3500 rpms and would stutter and jerk and misfire until shift. And each gear did that. Turned out too be my wires.

Originally posted by biggie16g
Its n/a. And no I didn't try wires. They all have good resistance. Possible they have a hole in them or something but I think its unlikely. Oh yes fuel test were done at idle and 3500rms

That's what I did the first time this happened too. The Chilton's manual or whatever says the wires should ohm out at such and such and they all do (or maybe they have less resistance, which shouldn't be a bad thing either). Even so, it's Toretto, Brian. It's always been Toretto. Those other guys are just fumes.

I'm sorry. It's the wires, dude. If it wasn't the wires, you'd have fixed it by now. Chalk it up to turd's luck.

Autozone's got you solid though. It's like $40 for their Bosch wires with a lifetime replacement. Unless you're crazy built, they're fine. Next time this happens, you can just take them off the head in the Autozone parking lot, walk inside, and walk out with a new set free.

the resistance of the wires may be fine but what happens when they get hotter? Everything can change at different temperatures right? Just go buy new ones, go somewhere else in the parking lot, try them, if it fixes the problem great, if not, go back and tell them i didn't need them and get your money back. worth a shot.

Changed wires... Nothing changed. Still looking for some suggestions.

Originally posted by biggie16g
Changed wires... Nothing changed. Still looking for some suggestions.

Check the TPS? It sounds as if it is an emissions component like cps or Egr solenoid. Check and recheck take you time. Autozone should be able to pull codes for you. Ida start with checking resistance on the TPS and work your way down. Do you have any other symptoms? Like ones you're willing to live with but forgot about?

Originally posted by valdeelrico

Originally posted by biggie16g Changed wires... Nothing changed. Still looking for some suggestions.

Check the TPS? It sounds as if it is an emissions component like cps or Egr solenoid. Check and recheck take you time. Autozone should be able to pull codes for you. Ida start with checking resistance on the TPS and work your way down. Do you have any other symptoms? Like ones you're willing to live with but forgot about?

checked the tps and its good. I have problems sometimes with the idle like if i come to a light it holds at 3500 and if I rev it, it goes away. And the dlc wont connect to anything as i stated before. i tried like 5 different tools. oh yea it has egr block off plates and the evap system has been removed.

To get the reader to check the codes on my 95 I have to tell the reader that it's scanning a 96 and for some strange reason the engine has to be running.

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
To get the reader to check the codes on my 95 I have to tell the reader that it's scanning a 96 and for some strange reason the engine has to be running.

thanks man. I will try that tomorrow at work.

The high idle issue could be related to the IAC.

Yea I took the TB off and cleaned the iac bore and the whole TB assembly but that didn't change anything. I ran a smoke machine on the engine and the only leak I have was a small one at the egr block off plate on the cylinder head.

It may be the fuel pump then or the wiring to it? finding out if your engine leans out in high rpm will help.

Originally posted by valdeelrico
It may be the fuel pump then or the wiring to it? finding out if your engine leans out in high rpm will help.

Recheck the spark plug gaps.. i know, but it happens. i owned an integra and the entire center electrode and insulation disappeared.

Originally posted by valdeelrico
It may be the fuel pump then or the wiring to it? finding out if your engine leans out in high rpm will help.

I just gapped the plugs last week but there color indicates the car is running lean. I'm going to check the fuel pump connections right now.

Originally posted by biggie16g

Originally posted by valdeelrico It may be the fuel pump then or the wiring to it? finding out if your engine leans out in high rpm will help.

I just gapped the plugs last week but there color indicates the car is running lean. I'm going to check the fuel pump connections right now.

Faulty FPR or Vaccum hose to it?

How about bad gas? Just a thought.

Originally posted by Slo2g
How about bad gas? Just a thought.

No not gas I've been driving it for like two months now. And possibly the fpr ill check that. Checked the fuel pump and connections it all seems good.

Timing is perfect and fpr working properly. Drove with a pressure gauge on the windsheild and it reads fourty pounds even when it missfires. Changed the fuel filter and put champion spark plugs back in and still nothing. Its gotta b a fucking sensor but since I can't pull codes idk where to start. This is getting on my nerves.

The only other thing I can think of is sticking fuel injectors. I've had injectors that would work fine at lower rpms but at higher they'd start to miss. Doing an injector flush or fuel coctail has helped when my car did that

Hell, maybe just try a can of BG44K on a quarter of a tank and see if it helps any. IIRC you can get it at Napa for ~$20. If that makes any improvement then you know where to go from there

I've posted my fuel coctail before, just do a search

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
The only other thing I can think of is sticking fuel injectors. I've had injectors that would work fine at lower rpms but at higher they'd start to miss. Doing an injector flush or fuel coctail has helped when my car did that Hell, maybe just try a can of BG44K on a quarter of a tank and see if it helps any. IIRC you can get it at Napa for ~$20. If that makes any improvement then you know where to go from there I've posted my fuel coctail before, just do a search

ive tried injector cleaners on the first set of injectors, i actually swapped them with some other injectors i had laying around and they do the same thing as the old ones. doubt its injectors. got a scan tool to connect now. i had to rewire the grounds to the dlc. i got codes for ect sensor voltage to high. ignition primary/secondary. and egr control. soo now i have a starting point and just need some time to actually throughly go over these things.