To start I bought a running 2g off a 2gnt member and pulled the motor out and sold it.. I had a spare motor laying around and it took a year but a machine shop assembled my fully built engine. I just got it in and went to start it and no spark. I tested coil and I got the test light to light up when I turn the key on the MIDDLE wire. I tested the ASD relay and the test light lit up on 12oclock and 3oclock I think thats like #6 #8. The last time this car ran it had a howell afx or whatever in it and I sold that computer was there something I had to do to make it run on stock ecu again? Its a 97 gs. Do i have to have my turbo on just to start it on symtechs race manifold? I just want to start it and shut it off before I put my turbo on. So my oil pan bung is open and my antifreeze line is open. Also I noticed that I do not have the canister that bolts above starter on block. IDK why but do I need this to start my car? I did try another ecu and still nothing. please help me get this thing running.

I dont know what canister your talking about. Did you make sure the part of the harness that connects to itself is plugged in? I made this mistake on my last eclipse and I couldnt get it to start no spark no fuel. I actually thought those connector was for something I removed so I didnt mess with it until I couldnt get it to start.

Possibly a bad crank-sensor. Mine got damaged and did the same thing when I put a new (used) engine in it.

Originally posted by built_not_bought
I tested the ASD relay and the test light lit up on 12oclock and 3oclock I think thats like #6 #8.

What are you talking about? Six and eight what?

Originally posted by built_not_boughtI just want to start it and shut it off before I put my turbo on.

Why?

Originally posted by built_not_boughtSo my oil pan bung is open and my antifreeze line is open.

You plan on starting your car like this?

Originally posted by built_not_boughtAlso I noticed that I do not have the canister that bolts above starter on block. IDK why but do I need this to start my car?

What canister? Post a picture of what you are talking about. There is nothing that mounts between the starter and the exhaust manifold.

Originally posted by CODE4

Originally posted by built_not_boughtAlso I noticed that I do not have the canister that bolts above starter on block. IDK why but do I need this to start my car?

What canister? Post a picture of what you are talking about. There is nothing that mounts between the starter and the exhaust manifold.

Starter solenoid? Yeah, you need that to start your car.

start simple. check all connections and fuses FIRST

I think its a capacitor or something... I got some machine work done on my head and changed all my lines to ss braided and I didn't want to start with the turbo on. I will get pics of everything tonight. Thanks

Yes the small metal thimble sized thing is a cap. No you do not need this to start your car.

And how does the fact that you changed all your lines to braided SS affect you starting your car without the turbo on?

I've never had a test light provide any meaningful information. Ever.

Take a digital multi-meter (they're $20 at Sears) and backprobe your cam and crank position sensors at the ECU harness. Pinouts for the ECU are provided in the Chilton manual as well as in the wiki on our home page.

If you get alternating 5VDC while cranking from both those sensors at the ECU and the car still doesn't start you have other issues. You might also pull a spark plug, connect it to the wire, and hold it next to the valve cover while cranking to look/listen for spark. Careful, though, this is serious voltage potential.

Make sure the fuel pump is priming when you turn the key to ON. Make sure fuel is getting to the rail by cracking open the feed line if you have to.

Check your compression. Did you install the cams or do the timing belt install? Double, triple check the timing is right. Pop the valve cover off and make sure BOTH cams have the dowel holes pointing up together. If not, you've either got a cam 108* out or mismatched cams installed. Eyeball the lobes on the cams. Do they look identical? Did the machine shop that took a year to do a 2 day job throw an oddball Neon cam in there?

Try doing the key dance too. Get a pen and paper, then sit in the car. Insert the key and turn it as follows:

ACC-ON-ACC-ON-ACC-ON
Leave it turned to ON, but DO NOT TRY TO START IT.

Watch your check engine light (CEL). If there are stored codes, they will be output as 2-digit codes displayed with flashes. Count the flashes and write them down. There is a brief pause between each number. Just write them all down.

Usually, it starts with "12." Using '*' to represent the flashes and '-' to represent the pauses between them, "12" is displayed like this: *--*-*--. End of codes is "55," which is displayed like this: *-*-*-*-*--*-*-*-*-*. There are no single or triple digit codes with this method and you can take the key out and do it again if you have to. When you're done, you should have a string of numbers which you split into pairs. 12233155 would be 12 23 31 55. Search the wiki for key dance, diagnostic, or codes, and you will find a chart detailing what they mean and what to check.

Good luck to you. Thanks for trying to save one. Don't piss off CODE4. He's a bad motherfucker.

Originally posted by DR1665
Don't piss off CODE4. He's a bad motherfucker.

I KNOW, LOOK AT HIS AVATAR. HE WILL KAP YO DUMMMASSS loll

Ok I know for sure my cams are in right they are crower 3s. I was wondering this if I hold a test light on my coil plug connector am I only suppose to get power out of the middle wire?

I borrowed a multi meter so I guess I will test crank and cam sensors. I tested for spark by cranking the car over and grounding the plug inside the wire and got nothing. I took a test light and got power on the ASD relay #6 and # 8 pins.

Also I do plan on starting my car just for a second like this just to make sure nothing goes through my turbo. I don't wanna risk starving it of oil either.. heres a pic guys.. thanks

holy shit i love your colors and setup!

Originally posted by 420agreenvilleSC
holy shit i love your colors and setup!

thanks mayn... I will get better pics up once its running and I am trying to work with symtech labs to get a dyno run to get numbers on the manifold and gt3582r.. I have new results

I took an LED light and ran into my coil connecter plug and got the light to light up when I turn the key on and crank the engine.. So I think that means I am getting power to the coil atleast. I replaced the cam sensor and the crank sensor still nothing. I am gonna back prone the sensors and see if I get 5v alternating. I just wanna hear this thing start so bad. I am almost lost at what to do anymore. This is a big headache

go back and double check all of your sensor connections and harness connections. Also, there's a small black plug near the starter. It's small and squarish looking. I had that unplugged on one of my rebuilds and it took forever to find out why it wasnt starting.

Originally posted by 420agreenvilleSC
go back and double check all of your sensor connections and harness connections. Also, there's a small black plug near the starter. It's small and squarish looking. I had that unplugged on one of my rebuilds and it took forever to find out why it wasnt starting.

I took a T pin and a multi-meter and tested the crank connector.. I did not get anything I tested all 3 wires did not pick anything up? So is that my problem shouldn't I have 5v going to cps? I am so lost

Contact Star Turbo Talon for more information.