If this info can help one person on this site, then I know I did something right. It's not complete by any means but it's what I have so far. I will try my best to keep adding to the list.

Camshaft bearing cap bolts
1. Outside bearing cap bolts – 21 Ft-lbs
2. Inside bearing cap bolts – 107 Inch-lbs / 8.9 Ft-lbs

Camshaft sprocket bolt – 75 Ft-lbs
Crankshaft pulley bolt – 105 Ft-lbs
Exhaust manifold to engine nut/bolts – 17 Ft-lbs
Intake manifold to engine nut/bolts – 17 Ft-lbs
Intake manifold stay bolts – 17 Ft-lbs
Oil pan bolts/nuts – 107 Inch-lbs / 8.9 Ft-lbs
Oil pick-up tube and screen mounting bolts – 21 Ft-lbs
Oil pump bolts – 17 Ft-lbs
Oil pump rotor cover screws – 108 Inch-lbs / 9 Ft-lbs
Oil pump relief valve plug – 39 Ft-lbs

Timing belt front cover bolts
1. Lower bolt – 21 Ft-lbs
2. Upper bolt – 107 Inch-lbs / 8.9 Ft-lbs

Timing belt rear cover bolts – 85 Inch-lbs

Timing belt tensioner bolts
1. Plunger type – 23 Ft-lbs
2. Bracket type – 20 Ft-lbs



Valve cover bolts
1. Step 1 – 40 Inch-lbs / 3.3 Ft-lbs
2. Step 2 – 80 Inch-lbs / 6.6 Ft-lbs
3. Step 3 – 107 Inch-lbs / 8.9 Ft-lbs

Cylinder head bolts -
1. Step 1 – Long bolts – 25 Ft-lbs
2. Step 2 – Short bolts – 20 Ft-lbs
3. Step 3 – Long bolts – 50 Ft-lbs
4. Step 4 – Short bolts – 20 Ft-lbs (again)
5. Step 5 – Long bolts – 50 Ft-lbs (again)
6. Step 6 – Short bolts – 20 Ft-lbs a third time
7. Step 7 – Long bolts – ¼-turn further
8. Step 8 – Short bolts – ¼ turn further

Engine to transaxle bolts – 70 Ft-lbs
Bellhousing inspection cover bolts – 104 Inch-lbs / 8.6 Ft-lbs
Pressure plate to flywheel bolts – 55 Ft-lbs
Intermediate shaft bearing bracket bolts – 30 Ft-lbs
Driveaxle hub nut (front and rear, all models) – 146 to 188 Ft-lbs
Rear hub to knuckle bolts – 60 Ft-lbs


Spark Plugs – 20 Ft-lbs
Engine oil pan drain plug – 25 Ft-lbs
Manual transaxle drain and filler plugs – 22 Ft-lbs
Wheel lug nuts – 87 to 101 Ft-lbs

Where specifically did you get this information? Browsing through it does not trigger anything outrageous however there is no manual transaxle fill plug that can be torqued - it is a rubber plug.

Leading me to ask... where did you get this information? Did you copy and paste this from somewhere?

Originally posted by CODE4
Where specifically did you get this information? Browsing through it does not trigger anything outrageous however there is no manual transaxle fill plug that can be torqued - it is a rubber plug. Leading me to ask... where did you get this information? Did you copy and paste this from somewhere?

Yeah I noticed that myself. That info came from the Haynes Mitsubishi Eclipse & Eagle Talon 1995 thru 2005 repair manual.

Originally posted by Nisshoku81
Cylinder head bolts - 1. Step 1 � Long bolts � 25 Ft-lbs 2. Step 2 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs 3. Step 3 � Long bolts � 50 Ft-lbs 4. Step 4 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs (again) 5. Step 5 � Long bolts � 50 Ft-lbs (again) 6. Step 6 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs a third time 7. Step 7 � Long bolts � �-turn further 8. Step 8 � Short bolts � � turn further

Without checking the other torque numbers, I will give you time to fix this one.






:wary I'll be checking back.........

MB

I take it this book is not very accurate. I will look at my other book (1000 page manual from Mitsubishi) and hopefully post valid information this time.

Originally posted by Nisshoku81 Cylinder head bolts - 1. Step 1 � Long bolts � 25 Ft-lbs 2. Step 2 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs 3. Step 3 � Long bolts � 50 Ft-lbs 4. Step 4 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs (again) 5. Step 5 � Long bolts � 50 Ft-lbs (again) 6. Step 6 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs a third time 7. Step 7 � Long bolts � �-turn further 8. Step 8 � Short bolts � � turn further

I'm back :P

Ok, in one sense this was a trick question. They have since revised the torque numbers for the MLS headgaskets for our cars (that's the trick part)

BUT, you gotta ask yourself one question, Nisshoku, "Turn how much further?"

Alright, I'll post up the "current" information by the AERA;

(with lightweight engine oil on the threads)

1. Center bolts to 25 ft/lbs and corner bolts to 20ft/lbs

2. Center bolts to 50 ft/lbs and corners to 35 ft/lbs

3. Retorque at same (50 ft/lbs and 35 ft/lbs)

4. Finally tighten ALL bolts another 90 degrees

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by Nisshoku81 Cylinder head bolts - 1. Step 1 � Long bolts � 25 Ft-lbs 2. Step 2 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs 3. Step 3 � Long bolts � 50 Ft-lbs 4. Step 4 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs (again) 5. Step 5 � Long bolts � 50 Ft-lbs (again) 6. Step 6 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs a third time 7. Step 7 � Long bolts � �-turn further 8. Step 8 � Short bolts � � turn further

I'm back :P Ok, in one sense this was a trick question. They have since revised the torque numbers for the MLS headgaskets for our cars (that's the trick part) BUT, you gotta ask yourself one question, Nisshoku, "Turn how much further?" Alright, I'll post up the "current" information by the AERA; (with lightweight engine oil on the threads) 1. Center bolts to 25 ft/lbs and corner bolts to 20ft/lbs 2. Center bolts to 50 ft/lbs and corners to 35 ft/lbs 3. Retorque at same (50 ft/lbs and 35 ft/lbs) 4. Finally tighten ALL bolts another 90 degrees

is this supposed to fix the rear driver side head bolt problem?

Originally posted by baconater3000

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by Nisshoku81 Cylinder head bolts - 1. Step 1 � Long bolts � 25 Ft-lbs 2. Step 2 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs 3. Step 3 � Long bolts � 50 Ft-lbs 4. Step 4 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs (again) 5. Step 5 � Long bolts � 50 Ft-lbs (again) 6. Step 6 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs a third time 7. Step 7 � Long bolts � �-turn further 8. Step 8 � Short bolts � � turn further

I'm back :P Ok, in one sense this was a trick question. They have since revised the torque numbers for the MLS headgaskets for our cars (that's the trick part) BUT, you gotta ask yourself one question, Nisshoku, "Turn how much further?" Alright, I'll post up the "current" information by the AERA; (with lightweight engine oil on the threads) 1. Center bolts to 25 ft/lbs and corner bolts to 20ft/lbs 2. Center bolts to 50 ft/lbs and corners to 35 ft/lbs 3. Retorque at same (50 ft/lbs and 35 ft/lbs) 4. Finally tighten ALL bolts another 90 degrees

is this supposed to fix the rear driver side head bolt problem?

I fixed mine with ARP head Studs. Highly recommended!

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by Nisshoku81 Cylinder head bolts - 1. Step 1 � Long bolts � 25 Ft-lbs 2. Step 2 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs 3. Step 3 � Long bolts � 50 Ft-lbs 4. Step 4 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs (again) 5. Step 5 � Long bolts � 50 Ft-lbs (again) 6. Step 6 � Short bolts � 20 Ft-lbs a third time 7. Step 7 � Long bolts � �-turn further 8. Step 8 � Short bolts � � turn further

I'm back :P Ok, in one sense this was a trick question. They have since revised the torque numbers for the MLS headgaskets for our cars (that's the trick part) BUT, you gotta ask yourself one question, Nisshoku, "Turn how much further?" Alright, I'll post up the "current" information by the AERA; (with lightweight engine oil on the threads) 1. Center bolts to 25 ft/lbs and corner bolts to 20ft/lbs 2. Center bolts to 50 ft/lbs and corners to 35 ft/lbs 3. Retorque at same (50 ft/lbs and 35 ft/lbs) 4. Finally tighten ALL bolts another 90 degrees

Ahh I see. Thanks man!