I had my motor completely rebuilt about 4 yrs ago and it's still sitting in my garage. From what I remember the guy who built the motor telling me that it doesn't need to be timed? Is that right. From what I remember they are hand turned for timing?

Originally posted by got_NX
I had my motor completely rebuilt about 4 yrs ago and it's still sitting in my garage. From what I remember the guy who built the motor telling me that it doesn't need to be timed? Is that right. From what I remember they are hand turned for timing?

You have to set the timing when you put the belt on? I don't understand what you are getting at. If they installed the timing belt they should have timed it but I would double check it.

my friend said it needs to be done with a computer.. I thought it was just they put the belt on hand turn it so you you don't kill the head.

Are you talking about ignition timing or valve timing? You don't need to worry about ignition timing, it is controlled by the ECU.

Here is how to check your valve timing - http://2gnt.com/index.php?d=PROPER_TIMING_MARK_ALIGNMENT

"Rotate the crankshaft to make the TDC mark on the crank sprocket 1/2 tooth before the TDC mark on the oil pump. This gives you a little slack to run the timing belt around the pulleys. Align the marks on the camshaft sprockets. Take a look back at the previous picture. You will want to install the timing belt like that. Engage the timing belt in the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket. While holding the belt on the crank sprocket, engage the belt onto the water pump sprocket, run it behind the idler pulley, engage it onto camshaft sprockets, and finish by running the belt in front of the tensioner pulley. Hold the tensioner pulley to keep the timing belt tight. All of the marks should be exactly where you left them. If you turn the crank sprocket to align the TDC marks, all belt slack should be taken up between the crank and exhaust cam. If you still have some slack, you better try again. When you think you have it right, apply 20 ft-lbs to the bolt on the tensioner pulley. This will hold the belt tight while you slide the hydraulic tensioner up against the tensioner pulley. While still holding the torque on the pulley and holding the tensioner up against the pulley, tighten the tensioner bolts. This is best done with two people, but you can manage by yourself if you are creative. When the tensioner bolts are tight, you can let go of everything. If you got the tension just right, the hydraulic tensioner pin will slide right out with no resistance. If you get this on the first try, go play the lottery. You can look at the pin to see if you need more or less torque on the tensioner pulley to get it right. Try it again, but put more or less torque on the tensioner pulley before tightening the hydraulic tensioner bolts. It will probably take a few tries to get it just right. When you finally get it, rotate the engine over two times using the crankshaft. All of your marks should still line up. If they don't, remove the belt and try again" - Taken from Corbin's rebuild write-up.


If you need to see the pictures, go here http://www.2gnt.com/?d=A_Proper_Rebuild and scroll down about 3/4 of the page.

thanks for the info.. the motor is completely together I just have to drop it in. I was just concerned about the timing.

Originally posted by got_NX
thanks for the info.. the motor is completely together I just have to drop it in. I was just concerned about the timing.

Drop it in and go. Just be sure you connect everything and you should not have any problems.

Edit: If theres been oil in it I would change that and also turn the motor over a few times before firing it up.