Hey guys,

Where is the heater hose connected to in the back? Heck, how do i know which hose is which? Looking back there its pretty hard to see. Just today, after driving from work, I found a lot of coolant leaking from the back of the engine. I read through the forums, and I guess the first thing to check is that heater hose. Also, is it hard to fix? Thanks in advance guys :)

By the way its a 99' RS if that helps.

The two heater hoses go along the side of the head and then to the heater core at the firewall to sum it up.

thanks, so I'm guessing I have to remove the intake manifold to get at these? Whats the best way to remove and replace them?

no way, haha. Just remove the battery, and they are in reach. Might want to check if it's the hoses first before you go and try to replace them.

Originally posted by ez
no way, haha. Just remove the battery, and they are in reach. Might want to check if it's the hoses first before you go and try to replace them.

Also, I just use regular 5/8" heater hose in bulk. They dont rub on anything, so paying for the pre molded ones is kinda pointless in my book.

Originally posted by teklein

Originally posted by ez no way, haha. Just remove the battery, and they are in reach. Might want to check if it's the hoses first before you go and try to replace them.

Also, I just use regular 5/8" heater hose in bulk. They dont rub on anything, so paying for the pre molded ones is kinda pointless in my book.

Ed Zachery

just buy enough to keep it from kinking, or get some anti-kink coils.

i freakn hate those hoses

Thanks again guys :) I am working on the hoses right now and they are a pain to get out. I dont know how you guys do this but man those clamps are hard to remove. Ive been on them for like hours and finaly, with alot of contortion with my arms and body, they are off.

Anyways anti kink coils? How would they look like?

Just a metal coil that wraps around the hoses to prevent them from bending to the point where a kink will form. Similar to the coil that is around the top of the stock rubber brak hoses.

As long as you route the new hose nicely and make sure that it is unobstructed and has now way of being kinked, you are probably all set. The antikink coil is just a safeguard

Originally posted by jrok408
Thanks again guys :) I am working on the hoses right now and they are a pain to get out. Anyways anti kink coils?

Yup, that's a yucky little area. I wouldn't worry too much about anti kink, especially if you got the stock hoses. I actually buy a 90 degree heater hose with maybe a 24" end from NAPA and use that. Just as long as she's not folding (or into your shift linkage) you'll be fine. If you got the stock pre-bent, then that shouldn't happen anyway.

The anti kink coils are aren't something that are needed. I used regular 5/8" heater hose and had no problems. When I worked at Advance, checked those coils out and was not very impressed by them. Great concept but they cost more than they are worth. Oh and replace the tension style clamps with the ones that use a screw. Alot easier to remove the next time.

Originally posted by whtclipse98
Oh and replace the tension style clamps with the ones that use a screw. Alot easier to remove the next time.

Sometimes that's not always the case, I have noticed that there were inconsistancies with the heater core nipple lengths where they pass through the firewall. On my 95 they're so short that it's impossible to turn the screw on a worm gear clamp. My 97 donor car's heater nipples stick out far enough to put 2 screw clamps on it.

I bought a heater hose kit from a dealership. It comes with both hoses and 4 new clamps. The kit was around $13.

Part number or die.

Yeah my 98 had the longer nipples so it made it easier to use them.

Originally posted by daes_venge
I bought a heater hose kit from a dealership. It comes with both hoses and 4 new clamps. The kit was around $13.

I got raped on that from my dealer......they didn't use any lube either.

Originally posted by CODE4
Part number or die.

MR124292

Originally posted by daes_venge

Originally posted by CODE4 Part number or die.

MR124292

Dammit, I thought we had some fun on our hands.