The focus of my build has changed from being a good GT car to being a LSR car. For those of you who don't know, that's land speed racing. I'm building it for a 1 mile top speed run. My plans :

Head :
Stainless Steel Valves
PT Cruiser lifters and Rockers
Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers
Turbo cams

Block :
8.5:1 CP Pistons and Rings
Eagle H-Beam Rods
ACL Race Series Bearings
Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley

Turbo System :
Treadstone T3/T4 Hybrid Kit
Walbro 255 (Looking for modifcations to allow a low fuel level condition without running a risk of starvation)
Megasquirt

Suspension / chassis / brakes :
Big Brake Kit
Project MU Brake Fluid
Yanaka Coilovers
Anti-sway bars
Strut tower braces

Other :
For runs, strip the interior of the back seat, spare tire, tools, parcel rack, passenger seat, console, door skins, rear side skins, hatch skin, and anything else that weighs an amount worth removing.
My tires should work until I get to speeds above the license I have now.

This list isn't really exhaustive, and I'm still looking into things such as injector size, weight saving (cost effective), aero, and of course, tuning.

When I get it running right, I'll take it down to see exactly where I can get in 1 mile. That will be the baseline.

Thoughts, inputs, or suggestions?

Also, as an afterthought, this MUST be daily drivable. It's my only car, I'm not building this thing to be used 5 times a year. So keep the "strip the A/C P/S" kind of stuff out please. I will probably disconnect those things to reduce parasitic drag when I run, but I will want them for the 99.999% of the time I'm not.

IF I can max the ratios in my current stock final drive, I'll head to the 3.55 final and see where that goes. I doubt it though. I saw enough this last weekend to know what to expect, so I'm not overly optimistic. An LS-series 4th gen corvette went 203.xxx mph, and was making over 800 hp.

We will see. Updates as warranted, and progress on my build. Right now, the only real mods I have towards this are Nitto NT450 EP tires, rated V, and stock size ceramic brake pads in the rear.


Jake

Isn't the point of running LSR runs to beat land speed records? To me that doesn't seem to be realistic for a daily driver. And if you were to do it, I wouldnt really go with a t3/t4. Maybe a gt35 or something similar. And make sure you have a really good tune and a hella strong build because based on personal experience these motors don't like going fast for too long. Hope you invest in a beater to get around with in case something does go wrong.

So because you won't win on a national level, you won't race? That seems a little bassackwards to me. I'm going to race LSR because it looked like a blast. There are guys out there racing spec miatas, 36 hp volkswagens, a volkswagen pickup truck, even modified dirt bikes. Not everyone who races LSR gets into the 200 club. If the Kia that ran last week could hold together over the mile, with the fully taped up grille and air-restrictive front aero, I'm willing to bet a built, forged blocked car can do it. It's only one mile, dude. I'm not going to buy a beater specifically for when my car blows up. Everything blows up eventually, and if my car blows up at the track, then I'll put it back together. When I build my bottom end, it will leave me with my current motor as a spare anyway. As for the GT35R, I'll take it under consideration, but I doubt it. Why? Because in a one mile top speed run, you don't want lag followed by amazingly horrible wheelspin through first and second. I've watched at the track enough to know the guys that run smaller turbos that spool quickly run faster than those guys with the T77s bolted onto a Miata. The cars that needed pushtrucks rarely ever got over 150 mph because of the length of the track.

Jake

Hey man, like I always say, to each his own, but I personally dont think it makes the most sense to build your 2G around an LSR platform.

Go for an Auto X or drag setup, and if you are interested in high speed runs, you can still use that car to compete in LSR events every now and then. I just think that is more practical for a daily driver and will be more fun.

But hey, if you want to go for straight up LSR, you probably will be one of the only, if not THE only guy on here doing that.

One of the reasons I'm doing it. It's a path less followed. I could care less about autox. Just not interested. And drag... what I'm doing is a one mile drag race. How is that less good in any way than a quarter mile drag race?

As I said before Nicho..to each his own..

Yes, smaller turbos spool faster but you'll be going a mile. You should be able get the most out of any turbo in a mile. 5lbs on a big turbo could easily be 10+ lbs on a smaller sized turbo. It will take longer to spool but when it does you'd be able to go alot faster on the other end than if you had a smaller one.

We'll see. Not trying to blow shit up. Looks like I might have bigger short term problems anyway.

I would go with a bigger turbo if its a mile long track and up the injectors along with the pump. You wanna get as much air and fuel into those cylinders as possible. The turbo grind cams are a good idea to help get the turbo to spool as fast a possible especially with a bigger turbo. I would also definately get a standalone system like megasquirt and have it tuned real good. Also could look into water/meth injection it all depends on what you plan on dumping into it and wheather your gonna daily drive it or not. Oh and also if its a straight track then the suspension mods arent really needed just more weight to lug around. Take it to the track a couple times too before you do the real run that you want to count so you get a feel for how to run the car for racing with a turbo car you want the turbo to do all the work to make the most power have it dynoed so you know when your making peak power and when to shift.

I'd also go with a different tb and intake, more air that way. also get rid of the sound deading material that will help you lose weight also. good luck with the build and have fun with it thats what its all about.

Good stuff. The throttle body I was planning on, the intake I wasn't. I was pretty much just going o bolt the filter to the turbo. As for the bigger injectors, yes, and the bigger turbo, maybe.

I think when he said a bigger intake he meant a new intake manifold with a greater volume. Maybe take a look at the OBX unit..

You should definately look into the bigger turbo, i would seggest an hx-35 or 40 over the GT35R. Also the little turbo will cause you to spin because the hit is so low in the power band. And an intake mani would really help, no sense in throwing a huge throttle body on w/o one.

EDIT: Thanks ronin for the correction.

Originally posted by bagged420a
And if your planning for more than 400whp you'll need to get bigger head studs(1/2") that way your head doesn't lift.

Not necessarily. Bullet proved that myth to be incorrect.
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=127041&mesg_id=127041&page=4

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G

Originally posted by bagged420a And if your planning for more than 400whp you'll need to get bigger head studs(1/2") that way your head doesn't lift.

Not necessarily. Bullet proved that myth to be incorrect. http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=127041&mesg_id=127041&page=4

i have to slightly stop u there ronin. Bullet has passed the 400whp mark but not daily. Yes, it wont lift if you're not boosting 30psi from redlight to redlight. Headlift really only occurs under the conditions of a drag vehicle that always does 30psi(ish).

you are correct though. It is not necessary for daily drivers.

Hahn proved it but i supposed you fail to acknowledge that too mikey?

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Hahn proved it but I suppose you failed to acknowledge that too mikey?

Apparently he's stopped bothering to acknowledge proper spelling and capitalization too.

Hey Mikey, u DOES NOT = you