I dropped my intake manifold off at a local machine shop that I deal with on a regular basis and they are looking at it for me.

Both I and the machine shop are concerned about the wall thickness after machining. Anybody that has had this done before have any pointers?

Should this go in at an angle, or slighly undersized?

Originally posted by 95_ESi_Person
I dropped my intake manifold off at a local machine shop that I deal with on a regular basis and they are looking at it for me. Both I and the machine shop are concerned about the wall thickness after machining. Anybody that has had this done before have any pointers? Should this go in at an angle, or slighly undersized?

Mine is full 60mm.

I do not have an issue with thickness. I did mine by hand though.

I matched mine by hand on the Talon with no issues either. I'm looking to go for a smoother finish on this. Don't get me wrong, the last one I did was beautiful, but I'm just going to be lazy on this and have it done on a mill.

I ran into the same problem with my machine shop not to long ago. They didn't want to go straight through either, they kept wanting to taper it. I finally talked to another guy there and told him that I really didn't care if they fucked it up, it was a spare anyway, and that if it went through the side I wouldn't hold them responsible. He fixed me up and everything turned out fine. It is kinda thin in some areas(but not paper thin), how thick is your IC piping anyway right? Only cost me $30 bucks too lol. Haven't had a problem yet.

What's the best way to do it yourself? Dremel?

Originally posted by BoostedEclipse
What's the best way to do it yourself? Dremel?

I used a dremel with the metal cutting bit (acorn shaped with teeth) and smoothed it out with the rough sandpaper bit when done. I used the white lithium lubricant spray on the bit frequently to keep it from gumming up.

You know, I'll have them mic it out and see how thin it would be. How thin can you go on a cast stocker?

If need be, I'll suck it up and buy an aftermarket if it's messed up.

Originally posted by 95_ESi_Person

Originally posted by BoostedEclipse What's the best way to do it yourself? Dremel?

I used a dremel with the metal cutting bit (acorn shaped with teeth) and smoothed it out with the rough sandpaper bit when done. I used the white lithium lubricant spray on the bit frequently to keep it from gumming up. You know, I'll have them mic it out and see how thin it would be. How thin can you go on a cast stocker? If need be, I'll suck it up and buy an aftermarket if it's messed up.

Lmao, its called a burr.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
Lmao, its called a burr.

Thought so.. but, tired and confused right now

Originally posted by 95_ESi_Person
I matched mine by hand on the Talon with no issues either. I'm looking to go for a smoother finish on this. Don't get me wrong, the last one I did was beautiful, but I'm just going to be lazy on this and have it done on a mill.

You can get it as smooth as machining with skill and time.

Pictures dont show it, but mine is smooth.

It gets pretty thin if you go straight 60mm but I haven't had one crack yet. I had thought of filling it back in with JB weld or something where the manifold necks down, but I haven't had the need.

How about 55mm? A lot of people say 55 is too much for N/A, but after cams and all the air I want to flow Im going to go with it anyway. Should I have it done 55mm or like 52?

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick
How about 55mm? A lot of people say 55 is too much for N/A, but after cams and all the air I want to flow Im going to go with it anyway. Should I have it done 55mm or like 52?

Stock diameter on mine was measured at 53.64mm.

I'm having to have it bored to 57mm as the thinnest outer measures at 59.62mm, and using a couple different degree cutters to match the 60mm OD at the inlet and smooth it into the 57mm bore.

But hey... better than leaving it alone!

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick
How about 55mm? A lot of people say 55 is too much for N/A, but after cams and all the air I want to flow Im going to go with it anyway. Should I have it done 55mm or like 52?

If 55mm is too big for NA then why are stock honda TB's bigger than that?

yeah if I remember right stock Type R t/b's are 68 or 70mm.

Originally posted by BoostedEclipse
yeah if I remember right stock Type R t/b's are 68 or 70mm.

I want to say 70mm, but I'm not sure. I do remember that the TB on the GSR I had was obviously bigger than a 420a TB

Yeah they are way bigger. My buddy has a 99 SI and his is either 70mm or bigger. I meant our cars N/A though, not just in general, my bad. I read somewhere, I think on that place you send your stock TB to get bored out, that 55 is ideal, and 60 makes you lose a little velocity, and the throttle becomes a bit twitchy. I ignored all this and went straight for the MP 60mm though. Ill probably have mine done out to 57mm then, Ill have it there for PnP and injector hump removal anyway.

Originally posted by 740 turbo brick
Ill probably have mine done out to 57mm then, Ill have it there for PnP and injector hump removal anyway.

You may luck out... Some people are able to get away with the full 60mm. I had more than enough material on the manifold on the Talon and really opened it up, but this one seems a little skimpy like it was the runt of the casting run.

With sufficient supporting bolt ons, the 420 can make use of the 60mm. Dohc neons do. The 420A has a better stock intake manifold design as well.