umm.. I ordered af/x udp today.. and i looked thru chilton's but didn't find much info on crank pulley install.. so... what's the procedure??

what tools am I gonna need>?? other than a puller and tourqe rench..

what are the tourqe specifications?

I went to the local auto shop.. to get a 5 ton Crank/gear puller.. but... they didn't have anything specific that said.. "5 ton", besides.. they didn't know much about that at all.... so... where should i get it from..??

Am i asking them for the right thing or not?

any tips?? what to do and what not??

thanks alot guys

ENKEI RP02 17" x 7"
AF/X UDP (waiting for shipment :-))
K&N Filter


Junoon
97-RS
automotive/industrial design student :-)
Michigan

What you need it a 3 ton minimum, 3 arm pulley puller. I found a 5-ton 3-arm pulley puller with long arms which worked great because our pulley has a small diameter on the inner part you grab, you need something to get down to like 3 inches.

I used the heat the pulley method and it only helped slightly, basically just enough to make it stay on the crank shaft while I picke dthe bolt up.

You also will need to find a bolt that is about an inch longer than the stock crank bolt. I think the specs on the bolt are metric 12 x 1.5 and then find one with the right legnth and you'll need a hardened bolt. What I did to hold the pulley still while I tightened it down was put two bolts in the pulley and put a screwdrivew between these and prop it against the frame rail. I didn't want to wedge a screw driver between the pulley arms because aluminum is a softer metal and I was afraid of bending it.

The torque spec is on the instructions you'll get from Howell, I want to say 105 ft-lbs, but I think I was using the same if not more torque to pull the pulley onto the car, so torqueing the bolt down may be futile. Also I have an 18" breaker bar, I suggest something just as big since I was using a lot of force to pull the pulley on. But please be carefull when pulling the pulley on, you DO NOT want to strip out the crank threads. Go slow but know that it is going to take a lot of force to push it on.

With that said, once you have it installed you are going to LOVE it!

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga
Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

thnks Michael for the help.. I'm gonna get the puller and bolt while waiting for the pulley to arrive at my door. Can't wait! once again.. thanks for the help.

ENKEI RP02 17" x 7"
AF/X UDP (waiting for shipment :-))
K&N Filter


Junoon
97-RS
automotive/industrial design student :-)
Michigan

Not sure if this is relevant to all but we needed to drop the engine down an inch or two to get the old one off due to clearence issues.
Also we used the stock crank bolt hopefully nothing falls off. :(
Anyway, heating it to about 450 degrees for 20-30 min did wonders on ours but may not work as good on some. (A/FX UDP)

Michelle
96 Eclipse Base Model
Best 14.6@93 w/60 shot

I need the longer bolt to pull it on because heating it didn't realy work for me, But it was a cool day and the aluminum does cool fast, so that was probably why we had problems with mine. I needed the extra legnth to grab enough threads not to strip the crank out to pull the pulley on. Once I got it a most of the way on, and before the longer bolt bottomed out, I used the stock bolt to finish it off and hold it on.

Yes you'll need to take out the passenger side motor mount but that's in the directions from Howell. I was just trying to give some tips not in the directions.

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga
Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/