Well, I have another question. There are only two things that I can NOT diagnose. Sensors,(at least not with out an OBD-II) and the AC.
To let you know what its doing, I push the button inside the car, and the fan comes on, Power to the clutch, but the clutch doesnt even try to come on. The button inside blinks either orange or green depending on which one its on. Now for my question, what kind of a switch is on the compressor that I can replace? or what is it that I need to do to properly fix this situation. I know it could be the clutch, but its getting power, So I am at a loss.
I do have a place to evacuate the system and what not.
Sorry this is so long, I just wanted to accurately describe what is happening.

Thank you in advance

3ska

Are you positive the AC system has a charge?

I've never messed with the AC on a 2GNT, but I just installed AC in my GVR4 a week or so ago. If your clutch isn't engaging, it could mean one of a couple things:

1. One of your temperature or pressure switches is disconnected/faulty. I know there are TWO on the 1G DSM - 1 pressure & 1 temperature.

2. Your system has a leak and has lost refrigerant pressure. If the pressure in the system drops below some amount, the ECU will not engage the clutch to prevent compressor damage.

3. The compressor clutch itself is shot.

What to do?

1. Follow all the AC lines, looking for any kind of doo-dad with an electrical connector that screws into them. Make sure these connections are sound.

2. Was the AC blowing ice cold before it stopped working? If not, chances are you have a leak that finally got bad enough that there's no longer sufficient pressure to trip the switch, resulting in the compressor not being engaged.

3. Is the clutch itself shot? You will need to consult the factory service manual (as it's hit or miss when it comes to AC work in the Chiltons/Haynes manuals) to determine which leads carry the 12VDC to engage the magnetic clutch on the compressor. With that information, apply the voltage and listen for the click. TIP: With adequate pressure in the system and no belt on the compressor, the clutch will still engage if all is well. I confirmed my clutch worked with 225psi of Nitrogen in the lines (leak testing).

Good luck to you.

Driggs wins again ^!

The AC hasnt worked since I have had the car. Its just a $700 DD. But DSMs are my one true love. There just like a woman, except they wont take half of what you own when the leave. lol. Back to subject, I really do appreciate the help yall have given me, I have recommended this site to any 2g that I see on the road. Hopefully I can get the AC working. I talked to the Mitsu Dealer yesterday, they said there is a sensor that reads the RPM to decide how strong to kick the clutch (I think thats what he said) but that you have to evacuate the system before replacing it. Is there any truth to that? Like I said, im not familiar with ACs.

There might be a switch like that somewhere. Like I said, I never had to work on the AC on my 97 2GNT. There's subtle differences between them, as the 95s (maybe 96s, too) had the 2-stage AC switch. 97-on had a 1-click AC button (green only).

If it's never worked, I'd suggest getting the factory service manual (search for it, it's around and free) and looking up which pins on the compressor connection are for the clutch.

If the clutch works, then it's likely the system has lost its charge. You can spend less than $20 getting all new o-rings for the lines from the dealer, get everything back together nice and neat, then see if you can't talk the local AC shop into taking a $20 to pull a vacuum on the system to check for leaks for you.

Then just have them charge the system and enjoy your AC this winter! (The compressor plays a role in the defroster actually de-fogging the windows, mind you.)

Originally posted by 95baser
The AC hasnt worked since I have had the car. Its just a $700 DD. But DSMs are my one true love. There just like a woman, except they wont take half of what you own when the leave. lol. Back to subject, I really do appreciate the help yall have given me, I have recommended this site to any 2g that I see on the road. Hopefully I can get the AC working. I talked to the Mitsu Dealer yesterday, they said there is a sensor that reads the RPM to decide how strong to kick the clutch (I think thats what he said) but that you have to evacuate the system before replacing it. Is there any truth to that? Like I said, im not familiar with ACs.

Before you go replacing sensors, you need to first find out if the system even has a charge or not.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by 95baser The AC hasnt worked since I have had the car. Its just a $700 DD. But DSMs are my one true love. There just like a woman, except they wont take half of what you own when the leave. lol. Back to subject, I really do appreciate the help yall have given me, I have recommended this site to any 2g that I see on the road. Hopefully I can get the AC working. I talked to the Mitsu Dealer yesterday, they said there is a sensor that reads the RPM to decide how strong to kick the clutch (I think thats what he said) but that you have to evacuate the system before replacing it. Is there any truth to that? Like I said, im not familiar with ACs.

Before you go replacing sensors, you need to first find out if the system even has a charge or not.

Exactly, easiest thing to do is buy one of those $15 recharge kits with a pressure guage and connect it up to the LOW side hose. there's a cap marked with an L. Start the car, set the HVAC controls for full blast cold and see what the pressure is. If it's low then adding some refrigerant may be what's needed to kick the system on. if it drains down again then you may need to have some hoses or seals replaced.

Thanks guys,
Im going to try that tomorrow. Unfortunately, my youngest one is sick, so I am tending to her today. I really appreciate the help.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
Before you go replacing sensors, you need to first find out if the system even has a charge or not.

I wasn't suggesting replacing sensors until such time as they were deemed defective. Ensuring all the switches are connected cots nothing and would be the first step in troubleshooting this issue after confirming the belt was in place. :P

Im not going to spend more money than I have too. Lol. Im going to check to see if it has a charge tonight once I get off of work, then, if it does, I will go from there, HOPEFULLY, the problem is that there is no R134a in the system, and it is just not charged from the vehicle not being used prior to me getting it. Thanks for the help.

Originally posted by 95baser
Im not going to spend more money than I have too. Lol. Im going to check to see if it has a charge tonight once I get off of work, then, if it does, I will go from there, HOPEFULLY, the problem is that there is no R134a in the system, and it is just not charged from the vehicle not being used prior to me getting it. Thanks for the help.

Thing is, man, if there's no charge in the system, it means you have a leak. If you recharge it after that, you'll just lose all the refrigerant again. If you don't have a charge, call a couple AC shops and see if they'll cut you a deal on a leak test.

Best case scenario: You end up replacing the o-rings (less than $10).
Worst case scenario: You discover you've got a punctured evaporator core (inside the dash).

Originally posted by DR1665
Best case scenario: You end up replacing the o-rings (less than $10).
Worst case scenario: You discover you've got a punctured evaporator core (inside the dash).

O-rings are about 90% of the AC cases that I usually see. I've only seen 1 dead evap core and that was because the idiot bashed it upon removal.

Sometimes getting a can of the refrigerant with some stop leak will "fix" the issue for a few summers. Well worth the extra couple $ up front

I have a buddy at a shop that can pull the vacume for me and get that setup to test for leaks. I just havent had the time now. Between work and all.
Im going to try and get out there Tuesday on my next day off. Test the system, and POSSIBLY try the stop leak, if that is the case.
My plan, put the vacumme on the system, see if it holds steady. IF it holds, refill the system and check from there. IF that is not the case, replace seals, and go.
I think there is a sensor on the bottom of the compressor, for the engine speed(or something like that) I was told by the dealer that COULD go out. I hope that is not it.
Everything is properly plugged in. I did check that on my lunch break today. The interior light still flashes.
Ill let you know what I discover ASAP.
Thanks for all the help so far.


3ska