Hello all. I’m back with my favorite car. I use to have an 98 GS back in 2002 for 6 months. Found out I was having a kid and had to trade it in. and I have been wanting one ever since. I went thru my share of cars since then (2 accords, prelude, RSX type S). Now I have a Nissan Titan and a Suzuki SV650S.

I was looking for a GST hardtop or a Spyer GS. But I came across a 97 RS with 131,xxx miles. Looks like it has many options that come on the GS (power everything, sun roof, spoiler). Just no side skirts, which is a must (to me). Paint is in really condition, its black so it just needs a good buff job, needs fog lights, no dents, body is straight. Interior needs a good cleaning, no rips, door handles need to be replaced but that is common on eclipses (already have some), passenger window needs new motor (maybe, have look at it yet). That’s all the small stuff. The major thing is the car doesn’t run. He says he was driving to work, and engine die on him. He talked to people and they told him the cylinder head was warped (by just looking at it) and the power steer is out. He had just replaced the timing belt and water pump. I don’t know how soon after the engine problem happen. I came across someone on craigs list that is parting out there eclipse and is willing to sell me there cylinder head for 75 buck. Said engine had no problem. I just don’t want to get that and its not the problem. But the good news is that I have an Eclipse again that needs some work but only for $600.00. I pick it up on Friday so I will have him walk me thru it step by step on what happen (if it came to a screeching stop with gear still engage. Or a rolling stop. Did you lose all power in car like dash lights). Pretty much anything so I can know what I need to do to her. I want to get her up and running then start buying parts and putting them on the shelf so I can ripe the engine out and rebuilt. I planned on rebuilding the motor anyway so I think it is a win win for me. I am going turbo, low psi. No more than 5-7. Looking to get about 200-220 horses out of her. I have a sport bike for crazy speed. I just need her to be able to pass up some one on the highway with no problem.. ill post pics when i learn how to on here

Check the timing belt and do a compression test first thing. if soeone had done the timing belt and they goofed it up, Id be willing to bet your problem lies there.

Im thinking the same thing. i know engine will be cold but at least it will give me a starting point. just sucks that i got to wait til friday night to see

Originally posted by dadnkid
Im thinking the same thing. i know engine will be cold but at least it will give me a starting point. just sucks that i got to wait til friday night to see

It got it home...tried to start it. posted it on youtube.com

YouTube.com

Check timing.

i agree. check timing. sorry to hear about your belt mark

I checked the spark plugs and wires with multi meter...G2G (good to do)
Fuel is good. I crank the cams to check if it was line up and it is. i also notice that whil i was cranking it, it was hard in one area then it smooth out...good catch shott17. I did a compression test and no good.
#1=135
#2=52
#3=25
#4=59

After all this i checked the radaitor and it was slug to hell. looked liked carmel pudding. so i will be pull the cylinder head. anyone in avondale(phoenix) AZ want to come by help out. I need a engine crane if its better to just pull the whole thing out and maybe a engine stand. i have a truck if it helps.

If the oil is all gooey and all cylinders are low, 3 out of 4 being veryy low, maybe you will get lucky and it will just be a totally blown head gasket..

What color is the coolant, and what does the oil look like?

Originally posted by Ebster1085
What color is the coolant, and what does the oil look like?

Originally posted by dadnkid
After all this i checked the radaitor and it was slug to hell. looked liked carmel pudding.

Originally posted by dadnkid
I checked the spark plugs and wires with multi meter...G2G (good to do) Fuel is good. I crank the cams to check if it was line up and it is. i also notice that whil i was cranking it, it was hard in one area then it smooth out...good catch shott17. I did a compression test and no good. #1=135 #2=52 #3=25 #4=59 After all this i checked the radaitor and it was slug to hell. looked liked carmel pudding. so i will be pull the cylinder head. anyone in avondale(phoenix) AZ want to come by help out. I need a engine crane if its better to just pull the whole thing out and maybe a engine stand. i have a truck if it helps.

Pull the head. Inspect the pistons and head gasket. Then if it looks bad pull the block. But its all up to you.

I got a couple things off the engine so far. But ran into a problem. the car has aftermarket rims on it with special lugs....the guy didnt have the key for it. so i been looking around for something to fit on it. i think its gorilla and i called them. without the reg number, they cant help. Discount tire ( where the guy got them from back in 2002) dont have keys for them anymore. just the small one. so i think im gona try to slam a socket on it. if that doesnt work, thinking about backing off the stud head on the back side of the rotor. these are just thoughts tho. ill update when i actually get somewhere.

I hope it is just a blown headgasket and no other problems...that would be great. I want to get the car up and running. then ill just buy parts to do a complete rebuild at one time. make sure its strong enough to handle 4-6 psi

Originally posted by dadnkid
Discount tire ( where the guy got them from back in 2002) dont have keys for them anymore. just the small one. so i think im gona try to slam a socket on it.

This works for me. Easy peasy.

You could always try some specialty speed shops that sell rims. I had the same issue with my 97 when I got it.. It had 4 different lug nuts and only 3 keys and only two keys worked on the lugs. I ended up finding a rim shop called fatboyz and they sold me the key I needed.

I got the lug off. the wheel is off and the valve cover is off. man i really need to learn how to post pictures

Originally posted by dadnkid
I got the lug off. the wheel is off and the valve cover is off. man i really need to learn how to post pictures

Get a free photobucket account and upload the pics there, then copy the direct link from the dropdown menu that photobucket gives you for each pic. paste that to your posts here.

here is the pics. the marks on the forward camshaf lobes are like crystaled oil or something. it can be rubbed off. i dont seeany other markings on them. havent took them out fully yet. still got to get crank pull off so i can get the timing belt off... well you guys know what to do to pull e cylinder head. thanks for the help on how to post

Weird.

The intake cam wear looks pretty normal, but the exhaust cam lobes are all funny.

You say that shit rubs off?

think i can try o trub it off with some wet sand paper...like 2000 grit

Looks almost as bad as that head that was on my rusted out 95 talon I had a couple years back.

Ok...finally have enough money and time to pull the engine. I have acouple friends coming over after work. I was going to leave the engine in and pull the head but since I have a engine hoist and stand to use; why not just oull it out. This way, I can see the entire engine and make sure the block isn't damage. Also, after doing searches, pulling the crank seems to be the worst part of the job. Should be easier with the engine out....should be

Good luck! Keep us posted with how things are going and include pics

Originally posted by dadnkid
Should be easier with the engine out....should be

Not should, IS.

I don't know anyone that has pulled the crank without pulling the engine.

Pulled the engine last night. It came out pretty easy. Found some minor things wrong:
Passenger CV inner boot tear
a couple of house fell apart in our hands
oil pan was milky

We took the engine out as one. Im taking the trans off today and putting the engine on a stand. From there take the crank off and soon the cylinder head to get it decked

ok...I'm feeling really small. I'm having trouble with removing the clutch off the engine so I can install the engine on the engine stand. I'm looking at the clutch and normally you remove the pressure plate bolts but they're all round...not a socket bolt head. The only bolts I see are the ones between the clutch and engine. When I try to remove those, the crank spins. I used the search on here and on yahoo. no luck. help is needed. Thanks

Originally posted by dadnkid
ok...I'm feeling really small. I'm having trouble with removing the clutch off the engine so I can install the engine on the engine stand. I'm looking at the clutch and normally you remove the pressure plate bolts but they're all round...not a socket bolt head. The only bolts I see are the ones between the clutch and engine. When I try to remove those, the crank spins. I used the search on here and on yahoo. no luck. help is needed. Thanks

This might help you understand your modular clutch set-up;

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Non%20Modular%20VS%20Modular%20Clutch

All you need to do is lock up the crank somehow (there are various ways to do this. Easy enough to have someone hold the crank pulley bolt in place while you loosen up the bolts that hold the clutch on. They are not torqued that tight). 4 bolts, then the clutch just falls into the ball housing when you crack the tranny and engine apart.


Easy peasy.

Yeah, I figured it out. Working while tired equals not thinking right:) But its off and on engine stand.

Wow, that is pretty nasty looking under that valve cover.

I myself just bought a $350 eclipse that underwent the same issue. But I may have deeper issues (no oil!). Under the valve cover doesn't look near as bad though.

Any updates on how it looks inside?