Hey guys,

It looks like I'm going to be doing my head gasket for my first time. The shop that did it obviously didn't do a good job because it's leaking again in less than 7 months. I've had this cylinder 1 misfire for the past month. I replaced the wires, plugs, coil, even the crank sensor and nothing fixed the issue. Today I ended up buying a compression tester which allowed me to find my issue.

#1 96
#2 210
#3 210
#4 190

So I'm alittle pissed off that the shop isn't going to set up and fix this so I'm going to do it myself. So far I purchased the items below;

MLS Head Gasket.
ARP Head Studs.
Valve Cover Gasket.
Exhaust Gasket.
EGR Gasket. Not doing the block off.
Unorthodox 20% Crank Pulley. F*@&&# was expensive (220.00 Shipped). I tried looking for the AF/X but didn't see it on howell and frankly I don't really trust them.


Things to buy:
Cam Seals
Front Seal
5w30 Motor Oil
Oil Filter
Antifreeze
Thermostat
Timing Belt
Drive Belts

Anything else you guy recommend? Btw, the head will be going to a machine shop once I remove it. Also, my water pump, mechanical tensioner, and pulley are less than a year old so I wont be replacing those.

Use a feeler gauge and straight edge to check the head and block deck for warpage. The specs (At least the head and I'm pretty sure the block is too)are in the service manual (Haynes/Chiltons). If they're out of spec you need to have them milled which may be why the gaskets keep leaking.

So I'm down to getting the crank pulley off and I'm having the time of my life. I read through a lot of post and i'm still not understanding how to do it. I have the Chrysler Harmonic Balancer tool but when I tighten it all the way down until I cannot physically turn it anymore, the pulley is still stuck. I hear people stating put the crank bolt back in 3/4 of the way and have the tool push on the bolt but i've tried that and ended up messing up a few thread. I really want to get this thing off tomorrow so I can finally get the head off so any info will be highly appreciated.

Originally posted by Nisshoku81
So I'm down to getting the crank pulley off and I'm having the time of my life. I read through a lot of post and i'm still not understanding how to do it. I have the Chrysler Harmonic Balancer tool but when I tighten it all the way down until I cannot physically turn it anymore, the pulley is still stuck. I hear people stating put the crank bolt back in 3/4 of the way and have the tool push on the bolt but i've tried that and ended up messing up a few thread. I really want to get this thing off tomorrow so I can finally get the head off so any info will be highly appreciated.

This is a diagram I made in 5 minutes. This is how I get the crank pulley off.

Any questions, post them up.

Miller does make a specialized insert, but it is un-needed.

Make sure you are pushing on the bolt only and ZERO part of the pulley. I think I used the jaws for the stock pulley and used the threads on the udp to get it off. Only took a few mins. It should slide right off if you are doing everything correctly.

Cool. I finally bought a 20ga compressor with an excellent impact wrench. That pulley will be coming off on Monday.

So I finally got to the timing belt today. Thank god for impact wrenches. Anway I turned the Crank Sprocket clock wise to 1/2 tooth BTDC. I'm alittle shocked to what I discovered because it looks nothing like any of the pictures i've seen. The cam gears don't seems to be aligned at all. Maybe I could be wrong because I don't see any notches on the gears indicting where they should be. Here are the images. Since the crank is 1/2 BTDC, how would I align the gears? I still have to remove the head so the gears and camshaft have to come off anyway. How would I go about aligning the camshaft and gears with the crankshaft once I put them back in?







What is this notch? Is that the timing mark because both cam gears have it.

So I take it that you got the pulley off?

Originally posted by teklein
So I take it that you got the pulley off?

Yeah I got that fucker off. Can off in a few seconds with the impact wrench. The head is out getting cleaned, pressure tested, and resurfaced. Cost about $65.00. Not bad at all.

is your engine high mileage? stock internals? if yes, you should look into replacing your pistons rings and bearings. drop that oil pan, unbolt the rods, and pop those pistons up thru the block. this will also allows you to inspect the pistons.

Thanks Babbs!

I thought I'd post some pics of what i've been doing. My got my head back yesterday and I must say, it's super clean. Very happy about that. I also got my UDP as well. Tomorrow should be the big day where everything comes together.

Unorthodox Crank Pulley. This thing is sexy!


Now that's a headgasket. Felpro looks nothing remotely close to this.


I can tell you the valves were filthy before it went to the machine shop.


Head


Decided to paint the valve cover. I think it came out pretty well.

ahh i recall the joy of picking my head up from the shop months ago...

everything looks great.

Hey Michael, with all this work being done, timing corrected, and the addition of a UDP, I hope I feel a difference.

Can you guys tell me if this timing looks ok? I wasn't able to get a pic of the crank but it's at TDC. Thanks!

So bad news, the crank threads are jacked up so I'm going to take the block over to the machine shop so they can repair it and put the pulley on for me also. I'll pay anyone that can help me pull the engine.

Originally posted by Nisshoku81
So bad news, the crank threads are jacked up so I'm going to take the block over to the machine shop so they can repair it and put the pulley on for me also. I'll pay anyone that can help me pull the engine.

Why do you need the machine shop to do it?

Lower the engine by disconnecting the side motor mount, and run a tap though it to fix the threads ;)

I could actually do that. I think i'll hit up sears tomorrow and buy a tap and die set. I've never had to use a tap before so is it pretty easy to use?

I read on here that someone use a passenger motor mount bolt to push the UDP onto the crank. I tried using the bolt just now to see what's up and it feels like it will thread into the crank. Would this be a good or bad approach?

Originally posted by Nisshoku81
I could actually do that. I think i'll hit up sears tomorrow and buy a tap and die set. I've never had to use a tap before so is it pretty easy to use? I read on here that someone use a passenger motor mount bolt to push the UDP onto the crank. I tried using the bolt just now to see what's up and it feels like it will thread into the crank. Would this be a good or bad approach?

Taps are easy to use. You don't need to buy a whole set, just buy the one that you need. Take the stock crank bolt to a hardware store and tell them that you need a bolt about 1 inch longer. Use the longer bolt to start pulling the pulley on, then switch to the stock bolt when you can put it in a few turns.

The job is finally done. I must say it was much harder than I anticipated because the lack of proper tools. I must remind you, do not attempt to remove a crank pulley without the proper puller. It will not come off otherwise. Then there’s the passenger side motor mount bracket. That thing is a joke and I refused to cut a hole through the fender in order to pull the bolts. I fought with this bracket for about 2 hours before it came out. I ended up loosening the rear motor mount which helped a lot with the lower bolt.

Finally, I made it to the timing belt. I skipped this (of course) and pulled the valve cover, cams and gears, which allowed me to pull the head. I sent the head to the machine shop to get pressure tested, resurfaced, and hot tanked. Installing everything went pretty easy until I need to put the hub for the Unorthodox Crank Pulley on. Once it was on, everything else was quick and easy.

The car is now running with no oil leaks coming from the MLS Head Gasket with ARP Head Studs. But my check engine light is back stating cylinder 1 is misfiring. I’ve already replaced the plugs, wires, coil, crank position sensor and still getting the cylinder 1 issue. At this point I’m confident the problem lies with the fuel injectors. The car has 175,000 miles and I doubt the injectors were ever cleaned or replaced. I will be pulling them next week and sending them to Washington to be cleaned / flowed. I also plan on doing a compression test tomorrow to verify my head gasket job went well.

I’m sure I was a pain but thanks again (2gnt members) for all your help. Couldn’t have done it without you.

So I'm going to walk in my injectors to RC Engineering. Luckly their office is about 15 miles away from where I live. They charge $24.00 to clean and flow tes the injectors. Also if I get them in by noon, they will have them ready the same day. I really hope this fixes the constant Cylinder 1 Misfire.

Damn! I wish I was that close to someplace that will clean and test injectors. If I send you a set and the money will you take them there for me?

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
Damn! I wish I was that close to someplace that will clean and test injectors. If I send you a set and the money will you take them there for me?

Yeah I'll do that for you!

Sweet, I'll shoot you a PM once I've got them out of the car and ready to go.

Sounds good!

I dropped off my injectors at RC Engineering this morning. I mean really for $24.00 they will clean and flow test, replace the bottom and upper o-rings, the filter at the top, and the cap at the bottom. Looking forward to getting them installed when I get them back today.

Pretty straight forward

So it was 24 for the whole set? If so that's an amazingly good value.

$24.00 each injector so $96.00 total and they were ready in 4 hours.

Originally posted by Nisshoku81
$24.00 each injector so $96.00 total and they were ready in 4 hours.

That's what I was thought, 24 for a set seemed WAY too cheap. Still less expensive than if you send them directly in and they ship them back to you.

Yup!

Bad news guys. I decided to do another compression test earlier today because of the misfire issue and the results were not good. Before I replaced the head gasket, my compression was 96, 210, 190, 210. Now it's 90, 210, 210, 210. I'm almost positive the piston ring is on it's last leg right now. Are these hard to replace and if so, does anyone have a write up?

Finally my block is with a machine shop as we speak. It's getting bored .020 over, honed, resurfaced, hot tanked, and the crank is being grinded for about $200.00. I can finally install my JE 8.8:1 pistons and eagle rods :). My car will be fun to drive again and definitely wont feel like it has about 40 hp.

You know you bumped a 6 month old thread?!

Lol, only teasing yah. 6 months later and your parts are finally at the machine shop? Ouch. But at least you should hopefully be driving this spring :thumbsup

Originally posted by bullettdsm
You know you bumped a 6 month old thread?! Lol, only teasing yah. 6 months later and your parts are finally at the machine shop? Ouch. But at least you should hopefully be driving this spring :thumbsup

Yeah man I sat on the project for so long because I had no idea what I wanted to do with the car. Hopefully this will change my driving experience with this car! I'll post up some pics once I get the block back.

Originally posted by Nisshoku81
Finally my block is with a machine shop as we speak. It's getting bored .020 over, honed, resurfaced, hot tanked, and the crank is being grinded for about $200.00. I can finally install my JE 8.8:1 pistons and eagle rods :). My car will be fun to drive again and definitely wont feel like it has about 40 hp.

Are you running N/A with 8.8 pistons? Because it will feel slow.

Originally posted by CODE4

Originally posted by Nisshoku81 Finally my block is with a machine shop as we speak. It's getting bored .020 over, honed, resurfaced, hot tanked, and the crank is being grinded for about $200.00. I can finally install my JE 8.8:1 pistons and eagle rods :). My car will be fun to drive again and definitely wont feel like it has about 40 hp.

Are you running N/A with 8.8 pistons? Because it will feel slow.

Yes I am but it's only temporary. Can't be any slower than having compression of 45, 210, 210, 210.

Hmmmm, 8.8's NA or running on 3 cylinders...

At least the engine should run smooth. :7

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
Hmmmm, 8.8's NA or running on 3 cylinders... At least the engine should run smooth. :7

Yeah man I know what you mean haha. Running on 3 cylinders is not fun man. I'd happly do 8.8:1 for a few months until I turbo! I kind of had no choice since smog is coming up and I definitely would pass in my previous condition.

So I picked up my block today and I must say i'm impressed. I will post some pictures of it this evening. So now that I know what size bearings I need (-.010), do you guys recommend a certain brand? ACL or Clevite?

Originally posted by Nisshoku81
I'd happly do 8.8:1 for a few months until I turbo! I kind of had no choice since smog is coming up and I definitely would pass in my previous condition.

Break in for a turbo & non turbo set up is different. I would never break in a motor designed for forced induction in a vacuum-only state.

Originally posted by CODE4

Originally posted by Nisshoku81 I'd happly do 8.8:1 for a few months until I turbo! I kind of had no choice since smog is coming up and I definitely would pass in my previous condition.

Break in for a turbo & non turbo set up is different. I would never break in a motor designed for forced induction in a vacuum-only state.

Why would you never break in a motor designed for forced induction in a vacuum-only state?

Originally posted by Nisshoku81

Originally posted by CODE4

Originally posted by Nisshoku81 I'd happly do 8.8:1 for a few months until I turbo! I kind of had no choice since smog is coming up and I definitely would pass in my previous condition.

Break in for a turbo & non turbo set up is different. I would never break in a motor designed for forced induction in a vacuum-only state.

Why would you never break in a motor designed for forced induction in a vacuum-only state?

I'd like the logic behind this as well, I've never read anything that suggested that boost was necessary to break in an engine that was going to be turbo'd. Not saying that you're wrong Dave, I just haven't read anything suggesting that so I'd like to see where you're coming from.

Here are a few shots of the work that's been done so far. Hopefully this is the last week which is should be. Only thing that needs to be done now is a head hot tank, purchase main & rod bearings, and have the tranny taken to a shop to have the input shaft seal replaced.


















Block before machine work


Stock pistons & rods


Now I have to hunt down where to get main & rod bearings as a set for a good price. So far it looks like parts dinosaur is the place!

Looks great man!

Glad to see that it is progressing along!

Originally posted by teklein
Looks great man! Glad to see that it is progressing along!

Thanks! I remember a few months ago you helped me understand how to pull that crank pulley. Now I'm rebuilding the engine. I'd say I learned a lot in the past few months thanks to the guys here at 2gnt!

Here are some more pics.

Pistons and Rods installed. Definitely has a distinct sound when turning the crank.


My buddy busted the hell out of this rod bolt. Ordering a new one Monday


New Axle Seals


MLS Headgasket w/ a little copper spray


I hope these timing marks are ok.


Crank Sprocket at TDC


Timing belt done. Not feeling any resistance while turning crank.

Good for you for posting up your timing marks :thumbsup

Now redo them them so they are correct. Run a straight edge across the marks and see where it ends up in relation to the cam bolts and the motor.

But I'm glad you posted those pics so that you won't have to redo after the install.

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Good for you for posting up your timing marks :thumbsup Now redo them them so they are correct. Run a straight edge across the marks and see where it ends up in relation to the cam bolts and the motor. But I'm glad you posted those pics so that you won't have to redo after the install.

Haha thanks Mark. I figured I would have to redo them. Having the time of my life with the mechanical tensioner.

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G

Originally posted by Nisshoku81

Originally posted by CODE4

Originally posted by Nisshoku81 I'd happly do 8.8:1 for a few months until I turbo! I kind of had no choice since smog is coming up and I definitely would pass in my previous condition.

Break in for a turbo & non turbo set up is different. I would never break in a motor designed for forced induction in a vacuum-only state.

Why would you never break in a motor designed for forced induction in a vacuum-only state?

I'd like the logic behind this as well, I've never read anything that suggested that boost was necessary to break in an engine that was going to be turbo'd. Not saying that you're wrong Dave, I just haven't read anything suggesting that so I'd like to see where you're coming from.

The new parts look great, but I'm also curious why you wouldn't break-in a soon to be turbo motor without running a turbo? Isn't that what basicly happens when you put a turbo on a motor with stock internals?

Looking good man. Glad you went with the Mopar axle seals. I had to swap out the ones I got from Chrysler for the Mopar ones because they leaked. The new ones don't leak at all.

Originally posted by Ebster1085
Looking good man. Glad you went with the Mopar axle seals. I had to swap out the ones I got from Chrysler for the Mopar ones because they leaked. The new ones don't leak at all.

Thanks man! Yeah those Mopar axle seals are the business.

So I was looking at some pictures of my valves and I think I found my issue. The valve in question is the one I have circled. Is it me or does it look like there is a piece of the valve missing between 1 & 3 o'clock? I ordered some parts to finally rebuilt the head also and hopefully this is finally solve my issue once and for all.

1. Crower Springs w/ TI Retainers
2. PEP SS Valves
3. Valve Stems
4. Valve Locks

Machine work

1. 3 Angle Valve Job
2. Resurfaced
3. Hot tank

I'm unclear if I need to replace my valve guides or seats. I've been searching the forum which some say you don't need to replace them and some say you do.

Sorry can't tell from the pic, but why don't you pop the valve out to check? Or at least throw some water in there to see if she leaks.

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Sorry can't tell from the pic, but why don't you pop the valve out to check? Or at least throw some water in there to see if she leaks.

I actually plan on throwing some water on it once I actually get the head out of the car. Been so damn lazy lately.

Originally posted by Nisshoku81

Originally posted by bullettdsm Sorry can't tell from the pic, but why don't you pop the valve out to check? Or at least throw some water in there to see if she leaks.

I actually plan on throwing some water on it once I actually get the head out of the car. Been so damn lazy lately.

Job complete!

I removed the head and did a leak test on all of the valves and all of them leaked a little but 3 of the valves over cylinder 1 was leaking just as fast as I could put water into it. So yes I rebuilt the head also.

Block Work

JE 8.8:1 Pistons w/ JE Pro Seal Piston Rings
Eagle Rods
ACL Main & Rod Bearings
Crankshaft grind and polished
Bore .020 over
Honed Cylinder Walls
Hot tank
Resurfaced

Head Work
Crower Springs w/ Titanium Retainers
PEP 1mm Oversized Stainless Steel Valves
New Valve Stem Seals
New Valve Locks
3 Angel Valve Job
Resurfaced
Hot Tanked
Pressure tested

Compression
Cylinder #1 = 210
Cylinder #2 = 210
Cylinder #3 = 210
Cylinder #4 = 210

Thanks to everyone here for all the help. This was definitely a team effort.

Nice congrats!

Bullet, this comp. stuff got me curious.

How much comp. does your NA car have? More than 250?

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Nice congrats!

Thanks Mark!